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2007-13 Chevrolet Avalanche
2007 • 2008 • 2009 • 2010 • 2011 • 2012 • 2013
2007-11 Chevrolet Avalanche (Crutchfield Research Photo)
If you're looking for one big vehicle that can do just about anything the average person needs to do, the Chevy Avalanche might be everything you need. It's definitely big, and the innovative "Midgate" allows it to transform from comfortable SUV to lumber-haulin' pickup truck in almost no time. That's a very cool thing, because most of us need a passenger vehicle most of the time and a truck some of the time. The Midgate makes the Avalanche a terrific truck all of the time.
The Avalanche is also a Chevy truck, which means it's a nice platform for an upgraded audio system. Replacing the factory radio and speakers is pretty straightforward, but adding bass can get a bit complicated. We'll help you choose the right gear and give you the advice you need to get the job done right.
The Avalanche was available with several different stereos, including a 6-CD Bose system. Other options included rear seat audio, DVD systems, and/or satellite radio. Replacing the factory receiver won't cost you any of the features you actually like, thanks to adapters that let you keep your OnStar®, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth® connectivity and more. You will, however, lose the factory nav system if your vehicle is so equipped.
Augmenting or flat-out replacing most of the factory stereo equipment is fairly easy, though getting to the amplifier and subwoofer of the Bose system requires some extensive interior tear-down. We'll talk more about that later.
Replacing your factory radio
The factory radio is reasonably easy to remove and replace (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the stock receiver isn't terribly difficult, but you should work carefully and patiently to avoid damaging the trim pieces. Starting at the bottom edge, pry around the edges of the receiver trim panel to release the retaining clips. These clips are very tight, so don't succumb to the temptation to use brute force. They'll come, but finesse is the best approach.
Once you've gotten the trim panel off, remove eight 7mm screws securing the switch panel, the temperature controls and the radio. It's okay to let the switch panel and temperature controls hang while you pull out and disconnect the radio.
Single- or double-DIN aftermarket receivers will fit in the Avalanche. You'll install your new stereo by following the instructions for the installation kit included free with most Crutchfield stereo purchases. It's a good idea to test the receiver and make sure it's working properly before you button everything up. You don't want to remove that trim panel twice, and certainly not in the same afternoon.
Some double-DIN (4" tall) radios will not fit because the wiring harness interferes with the dash substructure. Check our product photos to make sure the radio you're buying does not have wire harnesses or RCA connectors that plug into the top half of the back of the radio. If you have any questions, our Crutchfield Advisors are here to help.
As mentioned above, you'll need a mounting kit to trim out the new radio. You'll also need an antenna adapter to connect the Chevy antenna plug to your new radio. Crutchfield includes these installation parts free with most orders, along with our step-by-step Crutchfield MasterSheet.
In order to connect a new stereo to your truck's electronics, you'll need a special integration adapter. This adapter is not free, but we offer a 50% discount on it if you purchase it with your new stereo. This integration adapter lets you retain your warning chimes, keeps the Bose amplifier working, and retains the OnStar functionality (if either of these are present). You might also need a relay to keep your audible turn signals working with your new car stereo.
If your Avalanche is equipped with the GM Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) system, you'll also need a separate adapter to connect it to the audio/video output on your new receiver
Since installing a new receiver can disable the warning chimes in your Avalanche, in the interests of safety, you must use the recommended Crutchfield integration adapter to retain these warning chimes. We will not provide technical support for any installation that does not utilize the recommended adapter.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm driver.
Steering wheel audio controls: There are a couple of adapters available for connecting your steering wheel audio controls to a new car stereo. This truck uses wiring adapters made by Metra to retain the warning chimes and other features when you install a new car stereo. If you want to keep using the steering wheel audio controls, we recommend the Axxess ASWC-1 adapter, because it'll plug right into the Metra harness, simplifiying the installation a bit.
Replacing your factory speakers
As with most Chevy trucks, the front door speakers in your Avalanche are easy to replace (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Front door speakers: The front speakers are a sort of non-standard size, but they can be replaced with a variety of 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" speakers. A speaker adapter bracket is required, and it's included free with your speaker purchase. A wiring harness is not available, though, so you'll either need to splice the speaker wires or connect the speaker to the vehicle wires using a set of Posi-Products connectors. If you use your truck off-road at all, the latter is a better option because the connection is much more secure.
The removal and replacement process isn't difficult, but it is somewhat detailed and there is drilling involved. Complete, illustrated instructions can be found in the Crutchfield MasterSheet included with your order.
If you're even slightly handy around the home and garage, you know how to use a power drill. That said, we should remind you to be extremely careful when drilling in a vehicle. Be aware of things such as wiring, windows, fuel lines and safety devices. And, of course, check (and re-check) the drilling depth and location before you drill.
One last thing: Your new speakers might include mounting screws, but then again, they might not. Check your packaging and, if needed, make that run to the hardware store before you start working.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm & 10mm drivers, drill & 1/8" bit.
Speakers that fit in the front doors will work here, too (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Rear door speakers: The rear speakers are a little easier to work with. As with the front speakers, the rears are a non-standard factory GM size, but they can be replaced with a host of 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" aftermarket models.
You'll need to do a bit of drilling here, too, but it's the same basic job that it was up front. You should check for mounting screws in your rear speaker packaging, too.
Detailed instructions for the rear door speaker installation can also be found in your Crutchfield MasterSheet.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm & 10mm drivers, drill & 1/8" bit.
The tweeters are located in the front A-pillars (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Front pillar speakers: The tweeters are mounted at the base of the "A" pillars. They're covered by a grille that you'll need to pry off before you pull the entire assembly away from the pillar trim panel. From there, pry the tweeter away from the grille and clip the wires.
Because of that little bit of work, you'll need to use a set of Posi-Products connectors or splice the wiring when you install a new tweeter. You'll also need to fabricate a way to secure the new tweeter. Our tech support team can offer suggestions.
Tools needed: Small flat blade screwdriver.
The dash speaker is easy to work with (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Center dash speakers: If your Avalanche has a center dash tweeter, it's easy to get to, but a bit challenging to replace. There aren't any aftermarket tweeters that fit exactly, so you'll have to fabricate a mounting bracket to install a new tweeter in this location (our universal backstrap can really help in situations like this). If you're not into wire splicing, you'll also need Posi-Products connectors for this installation.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm driver.
Bass in your Avalanche
The factory subwoofer is an oblong piece that's roughly the size of a 6-3/4" speaker. It's located in the center console, which is nice, but if you want to replace it, the entire console must be removed. That's not so nice. It's actually a very difficult process, and it's quite easy to damage the truck's interior. Because of all this, we don't recommend replacing the factory subwoofer. If you're really serious about sound, your best choice is bypassing the factory piece and looking into solutions from JL Audio.
Their fiberglass Stealthbox enclosure houses a 10" JL Audio sub, mounts under the console, and replaces the factory sub. It's an impressive piece, and installing it takes an impressive amount of skill and experience. Consult a Crutchfield Advisor before you order, and consider turning the work over to a pro. This enclosure will not work in vehicles that have A/C vents on the back of the center console.
Adding bass to the rear of the cabin in an Avalanche can be tricky as well. Due to the way the Midgate works, there just isn't anywhere to install a standard subwoofer. You can add a compact powered sub, of course, but if you want serious, spine-tingling bass power, JL Audio is once again the company to turn to.
The Stealthbox model at right, which features pair of 12" JL Audio subs, replaces the factory mid-gate while retaining the folding ability that gives you easy access between the cabin and the bed. You'll lose the handy rear glass storage, but you'll get the powerful bass you want and keep most of the functionality you like. This is another challenging, technical installation that's best suited for a car audio professional.
You can also add more sound up front, with the help of a Q-Forms Kick Panel Pod. As you might imagine, it installs in the kick panel, and is available in three colors to match your truck's interior. Q-Forms enclosures hold 6-1/2" speakers in an ideal position, angling them to maximize sound quality. Since the Q-Forms are located near your feet, the distance from your ears to each speaker becomes closer to equal, creating a superior soundstage. Q-Forms do not come with pre-cut holes and installing them can be challenging, so check with a Crutchfield Advisor before you order. And, yes, you should consider turning the work over to a pro.
Add amps: The factory Bose system includes amps, but they aren’t ideal for use with aftermarket head units or speakers. It’s best to bypass or eliminate these amps in favor of newer gear if you want the best possible sound. You’ll find room for a new amp in the spaces under and behind the seats or in the center console.
Security: If you're installing a simple security system, we recommend the FLCAN interface because it has the best firmware for GM vehicles on this platform. If you're installing a remote start system, you also need an FLR3 wiring interface for transponder bypass.
Rear-view camera: With a vehicle this large, it's important to be aware of your surroundings. A rear-view camera is a big help when you're backing up in a crowded parking lot.
Speaker baffles: We frequently suggest speaker baffles for other vehicles, but for the Avalanche, we strongly recommend them. These big, thick doors can waste a lot of great sound, and this is an inexpensive way to rein it back in. The rubber baffles are easy to install, and they'll give you improved performance while also protecting your speakers.
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