2007-2013 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
2007 • 2008 • 2009 • 2010 • 2011 • 2012 • 2013
Rick Carlton has served as a professional automotive/motorsports journalist, writer, researcher, editor, and publisher for thirty years. He has also served as a press/media consultant for a range of professional motorsports organizations. He contributed several vehicle profile articles to Crutchfield's Research Garage.
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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab (Crutchfield Research Photo)
When it comes to pickups, bigger isn't always better – but it sure can be helpful. Toyota spent years building tough, reliable trucks like the HiLux and the Tacoma, but as good as they were (which was very), small- to medium-size trucklets weren't quite enough in a country where full-size pickups generally sell faster than most cars – including Toyota's own Camry.
Toyota knew that if they were going to play with the big kids, they needed a big truck. The second-generation Tundra is big enough, tough enough, and strong enough to go head-to-head with the best of the Big Three. It's also a Toyota, though, which means the Tundra was available with a lengthy list of available features, including a not-bad factory JBL stereo system.
Bigger is almost always better when it comes to stereos, though. If you're looking to upgrade your Tundra's sound system, Crutchfield has the equipment and advice you need.
The Tundra's factory stereo (Crutchfield Research Photo)
The Tundra Double Cab had the option for either bench or bucket seats, depending on the owner’s preference. If you have the bucket seats, you'll need to disassemble the center console when you're replacing the factory radio.
Regardless of the interior setup, Toyota offered two different radio options in the Double Cab truck: an in-dash AM/FM/CD unit or the same radio with an in-dash 6-disc changer.
You could also choose between the standard 6-speaker system or an upgraded JBL system that features twelve speakers (including an 8" subwoofer) powered by a 440-watt amplifier.
Replacing your factory stereo
Removal and replacement of the factory stereo is somewhat complex because the dash enclosure employs a host of trim panels and accessory systems that you will have to contend with. It'll take some time to remove the Toyota radio, beginning with removal of the interior knee panel and the cup-holder assembly, followed by removal of the ashtray, displacement and disconnection of the heater control panel, and displacing the entire instrument panel, along with dealing with a myriad of trim panels protecting hidden screws, simply to gain access to the receiver.
A close-up of the stereo wiring bundles (Crutchfield Research Photo)
You can install a single-DIN or double-DIN radio in the Tundra, and the radio cavity offers 9 inches of depth to work with. Deciding on a new radio will offer no problems in terms of available space. You'll need a mounting kit to trim out the new radio and a wiring harness that allows you to connect your new radio to the factory wiring. (Crutchfield offers these installation parts a deep discounts with your stereo orders, along with our free step-by-step instructions for your Tundra.)
If you have the JBL option, you will have to buy and install a special integration adapter, the TATO adapter from PAC, that ties your new car stereo into the JBL's amplified speaker system. You'll want to pick a stereo with two sets of full-range preamp outputs to interface with this adapter; otherwise, you'll need to purchase a 4-channel line output converter. (Crutchfield also offers a deep discount on the special adapter that you'll need for this JBL installation.)
Note: You'll lose the following factory options when replacing your Toyota radio. Fortunately, most new stereos include these features:
- factory AUX input connection
- factory XM reception
- factory hands-free cell phone interface, if your truck is so equipped
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, panel tool, 10mm socket, ratchet & extension, pliers
Steering wheel audio controlsIt's relatively easy to retain your Tundra's steering wheel audio controls when you install a new stereo. When you enter your vehicle information, our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver.
Replacing your factory speakers
Depending on whether you have the vanilla factory package or the upgraded JBL entertainment system in your truck, the central differences between the two setups are the number and placement of each system’s speaker array.
Standard speaker system
Dash speakers: In the case of the regular system, the factory setup includes a 2" tweeters at each corner of the dash just below the windshield. Replacing the dash speakers is considerably easier than working with the receiver installation, and primarily requires prying up each dash grille and removing two screws. The only bit of complexity comes when you try to find tweeters that'll fit in these locations. You will have to fabricate mounting brackets for any tweeters you select, and you'll either have to splice into the factory wiring or use a set of Posi-Products connectors.
Removing the dash speakers isn't too difficult. (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Front door speakers: Along with this tweeter complement, the Tundra has an oddly shaped 6"x9" speaker built into an integrated bracket installed in each front door. Aftermarket 6"x9"s won't fit because of that integrated bracket, so your best bet is a set of 6-1/2" or 5-1/4" speakers that will drop right in with the help of mounting brackets. Speaker harnesses are available for both locations. They'll allow you to attach the new speakers to the plugs that connect to the Toyota factory speakers, and they make it easier to reinstall the factory speakers if you ever sell your truck. Crutchfield offers these speaker mounting brackets and wiring harnesses at a deep discount with every speaker order.
You can install 6-1/2" or 5-1/4" speakers in the front doors (Crutchfield Research Photo)
The process of installing door speakers is simply requires removal of the door’s sail panel, followed by several hidden screws placed under trim covers, disconnection of the electric door controls and, finally, removal of the entire arm-rest assembly. Once those components are free and clear of the door panel, simply unscrew the door panels, take the panel off the assembly, set it aside, and unscrew four speaker fastenings.
Rear door speakers: In the Double Cab truck, the rear door factory speaker is a 6-3/4" that's also built into a bracket. And, again, your best bet is a set of 6-1/2" or 5-1/4" speakers that will drop in with the help of mounting brackets. Speaker harnesses are also available for the rear door locations. Replacing the rear speakers is very similar to the front doors except that the process begins with the rear window trim panel.
JBL speaker system
JBL's 12-speaker system includes a center dash speaker, two dash tweeters, 6"x9" speakers with separate tweeters in the front doors, 6-3/4" speakers and tweeters in the rear doors, and an 8" subwoofer in an enclosure behind the left rear seat.
The Toyota brochure cites a 440-watt power rating for the JBL amp that powers this system, but these ratings are usually combined peak wattage ratings. That said, you'll still get good results using that special adapter to tie your new car stereo into the JBL system.
Front door tweeter in the JBL system (Crutchfield Research Photo)
If you decide to replace all your speakers while keeping the JBL amp, keep in mind that they're all 2-ohm speakers. You'll want to pick speakers with lower impedances (like JBL or Infinity) to replace them or you'll hear a significant loss of volume. Harnesses are available for all locations except for the tweeters – you'll have to splice into the factory wiring to replace the factory tweeters.
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, panel tool
Bass in your Tundra
You'll find a few options for adding bass to the Tundra Double Cab, including enclosures from JL Audio and MTX.
JL Audio Stealthbox: JL Audio makes a Stealthbox for the Tundra, which offers one 8" sub in a ported enclosure. This option eliminates the need to remove the under-seat utility box in the Tundra’s extended cab version. The system is placed under the driver-side rear seat. The enclosure is available in Black, Tan, and Gray.
MTX ThunderForm: MTX makes a ThunderForm enclosure for the Tundra. It's loaded with a 10" sub that installs under the rear seat.
Here are some other ways to improve your Tundra:
Installing a security system in your Tundra isn't easy (security systems rarely are), but it's definitely a good idea. Our Crutchfield Advisors can help figure out what you need to get the job done, but we usually recommend taking your car and new gear to a professional installer.
If you want to keep your Toyota radio, you'll find several options for connecting and controlling your iPod with the factory radio. You'll want to pay close attention to the qualifiers for these adapters, as some use the changer control port on the factory radio while others use the satellite radio connection.
Good, better, best
Good: Whether you are working with the standard factory radio, Toyota’s factory speakers are pretty good. So as a first step we suggest upgrading your receiver first then see what else needs to be done. As for the JBL upgrade, this speaker complement is already worth keeping, so look to an upgraded receiver or double space GPS/receiver as an initial move.
Better: If you decide you want a more refined sound in your Tundra, go to some upgraded tweeters and two-way cones, along with looking into more sophisticated subs. Finally, you might want to go with some supplementary amplification.
Best: If you want to rock your Tundra, install a large sub enclosure by replacing the utility locker, then go with hi-watt amplification. You can also add a AudioControl equalizer to really get serious about setting up your system.