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Amplifier wiring diagram

A typical 2-amp setup


Crutchfield Writing Team

The Crutchfield writing team is a group of full-time, in-house copywriters who share a passion for consumer electronics. In addition to creating the articles and videos you find in the Research area of the Crutchfield website, these hard-working and talented people write the informational copy for the products on our website and in the Crutchfield catalog. Our writers constantly research the latest products, technologies, and industry trends, so that we can bring you the most helpful information possible.

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Amplifier Wiring Diagram

This simplified diagram shows how a full-blown car audio system upgrade gets wired in a car. The system includes a 4-channel amp for the front and rear pairs of full-range speakers and a mono amp for a subwoofer. Capacitors aren't usually necessary in a car stereo installation but we included one here to show how it would get wired into a system.

  • John

    Posted on 4/28/2015 8:10:38 PM

    If I had two amps running their own power lines straight from the battery, how would I wire the capacitor?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/29/2015 10:25:54 AM

    John, If your audio system is drawing so much power from your vehicle's electrical system that you need a capacitor, it should be connected to your subwoofer amplifier's positive power lead and ground. The diagram gives a generalized picture of how it connects. You'll need to refer to your capacitor's installation instructions for more details.

  • Jose Gomez from Queens , New York

    Posted on 5/3/2015 10:18:09 PM

    hi there, my questions is: I have 2 new Kicker - CS694 6" x 9" Coaxial Speakers with Polypropylene Cones, Handles up to 450W peak power (150W RMS) and Subwoofer 450W Pioneer 10", I want to hook up those together, but I need amplifier: How much power? and 3 or 4 channels?, help me please......this is for my work truck. thanks

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/4/2015 12:38:11 PM

    Jose, You will need 3 amplifier channels to run this system, two for the front speakers and one for the sub. One of the neatest ways to get the amount of channels and power you'll need is to get a 5-channel amplifier, like the Kenwood Excelon X700-5, and bridge the front and rear channels to send 100 watts RMS to each of the full-range speakers, and run the subwoofer with up to 500 watts RMS from the subwoofer channel.

  • Elliott G Lemire from Canada

    Posted on 5/5/2015 1:32:02 AM

    So what if my Deck didn't have a 'Sub out'? I plan on using the Stock Deck, (it's all integrated with steering wheel, BT etc...) I've heard of a 'Hi / Low' Filter???

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/5/2015 12:38:20 PM

    Elliott, You can add a subwoofer to a factory system by using a line output converter (LOC) or a subwoofer amplifier that has speaker-level inputs to get signal from the factory speaker wiring. Usually you splice into four wires - left positive and negative, and right positive and negative. The left and right signals get mixed together inside the amplifier to produce the single subwoofer signal. Your sub amp or powered subwoofer will have a low-pass filter that you must set to remove all high-frequency content and clean up the bass sound. Most people access the wiring at the vehicle's rear speakers, because it's easier to get at them there, but behind the receiver at its wiring harness is okay as well.

  • John from Nevada

    Posted on 5/12/2015 3:17:33 PM

    Buck, I have this similiar setup. In this diagram how would I connect an epicenter?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/12/2015 3:44:02 PM

    John, Processors like this get connected between a receiver and amplifier. In this case, the patch cables that come from the receiver's subwoofer output would plug into the Epicenter's inputs. The Epicenter's outputs would then go to the subwoofer amplifier's inputs. The Epicenter's power, ground, and remote turn-on lead will have to be connected in the same manner as your amplifiers. One thing to note, however, is that an Epicenter likes a full-range signal for its input - so if you use the receiver's subwoofer output, set it to full-range or set its low-pass filter to the highest frequency.

  • Nate from spring ntx

    Posted on 5/23/2015 8:08:55 AM

    what would give best performan if i have 2 500 watt 12s svc on a 1500 watt single fuse planet audio monoblock and a 3 way crossover as well as 2 2000 watt 15 dvc qpower on a 4000 watt mono block with 3000 compasitor

  • Derek from Texas

    Posted on 6/1/2015 1:14:26 PM

    I have a 2005 Mercury montego with 6 speakers. The rear deck has 2 kicker 6x9 css69. I have a Powerbass RTA-112 Single 12" powered sub. I want to replace the other 4 speakers with pioneer ts-a6885r. Will the Powerbass sub amp interfere with getting an amp for the 6 speaker?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/1/2015 1:53:53 PM

    Derek, The rear deck speakers in your '05 Montego with the 6-speaker system are actually subwoofers - the factory amplifier has a built-in crossover, so any replacement speaker you put in back there will only play bass. You can certainly add a powered sub to the system to improve the bass if the factory subwoofer amp isn't powerful enough for you. When it's time to upgrade the power for your full-range speakers, you'll only need to add a 4-channel amplifier to the system.

  • Abdel

    Posted on 7/9/2015 2:11:12 AM

    I plan on running this diagram with adequate measurements taking accounted for based off of all the other DIY tutorials and explanations provided by cruthcfield which I sincerely thank all of you for. However I have a side question about the 4 channel amp and speakers i plan on purchasing. If the 4 channel amp is rated at 1600 watts but 180 watts RMS at 2 ohms by 4, and the speakers i am getting are rated at 180 watts and 60 watts RMS (JBL GTO638 )... is it 60 watt RMS per speaker (meaning that the amp is adequate or is it 60 watt rms per speaker meaning that the amp could provide the 150% max power threshold? If there is an amp that you would recommend for these speakers please include it in the response. Thank you.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/9/2015 11:57:37 AM

    Jeremy, If you bought your amplifier at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/9/2015 12:26:38 PM

    Abdel, Almost any 4-channel amplifier with between 45 and 90 watts output per channel will work with those speakers. I'm not sure your location, so I don't know what's available to you. You can contact a Crutchfield Sales Advisor for recommendations via phone or chat. The toll-free number and contact information are at the top of this page.

  • Casey from United States

    Posted on 7/13/2015 5:30:42 PM

    What if you are not able to connect 3 sets of RCA cables to your receiver? Is it safe to splice one pair of the RCA cables running to the 4 channel amp and run to sub amp? OR If the sub amp takes high level input, could you splice the speaker wire coming from the 4 channel amp and run to sub amp?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/14/2015 12:54:12 PM

    Casey, It is never a good idea to try and splice into an RCA cable, that may introduce noise and interference. In order to feed multiple amplifiers from a limited number of channels you can use Y-cords - adapter cables with a single connection on one end and two on the other.

  • CHRIS PAUL from Melbourne

    Posted on 7/21/2015 2:31:26 PM

    Hello I am having problems making my setup sound cleaner/ which boxes to use/ which amp to pair with subs/ wiring issues??? first i will list my setup as accurately as possible for you. head unit: basic pioneer no bluetooth. 2 pre amp outputs front aux and usb cost about $80kicker rcas from best buyoff brand rcasamps: kenwood 5 channel 1200 watt max, got from best buy for 250 normal price is 350power acoustic 2000 watt mono block, got from a friend for cheap :)subwoofers: 2 kicker compVR DVC 12 inch subwoofers2 power acoustics that i got with the 2000 watt amp. im assuming these speakers have somewhere around 600-800 rms EACHthe 2 front door speakers and tweeters in the camry are stock, i obviously want to change that eventually. the rear deck speakers dont work because i bypassed the stock jbl amplifier that comes with the car. so i bought a pair of polk audio 6x9s from best buy they were 149.99 for the pair. i think this model got discontinued but i like them they scream pretty loud. i have the polk audios hooked up to the kenwood 5 channel amplifier. i havent taken the time to switch the 6x9 polk audios with the rear decks that arent working. so the 6x9s are sitting on top of the rear deck sliding around LOL.on to the subwoofer setup. i have the 2 kickers compVR 12 inch hooked up to the kenwood 5 channel. i have them bridged .then i have the 2 12 inch power acoustics hooked up to the 2000 watt amp. i also have a scosche capacitor hooked up in the backi am running 4 gau

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/21/2015 2:56:56 PM

    Chris, If you had bought your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. You can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details. If you do, be prepared to identify your equipment by make and model number, not by what price you got it for.

  • Felix Harvey from Dyer

    Posted on 8/1/2015 1:35:17 PM

    I have a five channel amplifier that is powering four speakers and a sub. It has three 30 amp fuses on it so I am using a 100 amp fuse close to the battery. I want to add a mono amp just to power my sub that has two 30 amp fuses in it. Having two amps I know I will be adding a power and ground blocks and run 4 gauge wire from the battery. my actual question is what size fuse am I now going to need at the battery, or will it remain a 1oo amp fuse.

  • Clifton Bond from United States

    Posted on 8/1/2015 7:36:39 PM

    Thank you.

  • Keith from Winder

    Posted on 8/2/2015 12:56:21 PM

    I have a van I'm putting a 15" sub with a 1200 watt rockford fosgate prime with 4 RF 6 1/2" with a 600 watt prime and 4 RF tweets on a 300 watt prime the head unit has 3 sets of outputs. Is this the best way to hook it all up?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/2/2015 4:11:59 PM

    Felix, The in-line fuse on the power wire by the battery protects the wire and your car from fire in the event of a short circuit. If you're using a 4-gauge wire from the battery to a distribution block, then a 100-amp fuse should be okay. If you find that your amps are struggling to make power, you may want to consider upgrading to a 2-gauge wire and 150-amp fuse.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/2/2015 4:42:50 PM

    Keith, Are you planning on installing four full-range speakers and then adding more tweeters? Or are these Rockford Fosgate components that come in a set and have their own crossovers? If that's the case, then you won't need that third amplifier. This wiring diagram shows a typical setup for running four full-range speakers and a subwoofer. If you want to add two tweeters to this kind of system, you'll have to get signal for them using Y-cords on the front full-range channel RCAs. You'll also need a crossover filter, high-pass, to prevent bass notes tearing the tweeters apart.

  • Tracy Strout from fort Lupton co

    Posted on 8/11/2015 5:28:44 AM

    If your capacitors capable of enough farad, for both four channel amp and mono amp. Is it better/ok/or recommended to, split output of capacitor through a distribution block. Then to each individual amplifier. Simply making a Y connection from cap to amp's. All I ever see caps used for are sub/mono amp's. Never in line to a 4 channel amp why? .

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/11/2015 1:02:12 PM

    Tracy, A capacitor provides a jolt of power to an electrical system when the demand exceeds the normal supply. As the typical subwoofer amplifier will be two or three times more powerful than the full-range amp in a system, that's where the greatest demand will occur, when the bass hits. You can certainly mount a capacitor as you describe, but I don't think it would be very effective. Mounting a cap on the sub amp's power cable as close to that amp as possible will provide the fastest deliver of power where it's most needed.

  • Junior Dearmon from Humble , Tx.

    Posted on 8/13/2015 1:06:02 AM

    I have a ct sounds 1400.1 amp and two dvc 4ohm 12" mtx subs 400 watts rms and I have them wired at 1ohm. Should I wire them seperately or keep them the way I have them

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/13/2015 1:20:35 PM

    Junior, That amplifier can apparently put out 1400 watts RMS at 1 ohm, which may be a bit much for those two 400 watts RMS rated subs (800 watts together), but you should be okay if you keep the amp's gain set low.

  • will from Newcastle

    Posted on 8/15/2015 6:57:23 AM

    Hi guys On the back of my head unit, i have RCA outputs for left and right speakers how do i connect these to my amp as it only has left and right inputs

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/17/2015 10:21:09 AM

    Will, If you're using your amplifier to drive front speakers in your car, you should plug one end of a 2-channel RCA cable into the Front Left and Front Right output channels of the receiver and the other end into your amp's inputs. If you're using the amp for a subwoofer, use the rear channels of the receiver and go through the receiver's menu to see if there are subwoofer settings you need to adjust.

  • Seth from Fort Lauderdale, FL

    Posted on 8/20/2015 12:00:46 PM

    The remote turn-on lead in the diagram shows it being split from the receiver and going to two amps. Is this actually how it should be done? I've read elsewhere that a relay should be used for turning on multiple amps... I'm about to begin an install and just want to make sure it's done right.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/20/2015 12:59:58 PM

    Seth, The turn-on lead in the diagram is shown split like that for clarity. Usually, you daisy-chain the turn-on lead from one amp to another: from the receiver to the first amp, then on to the second. A receiver's turn-on circuit can usually handle up to two or three amps before it becomes overwhelmed. Any more than that would require a relay to provide enough 12-volt current to work.

  • larry olson from crozet

    Posted on 8/27/2015 9:41:51 AM

    I'm trying to hook up a fm car radio in my work shop. If I buy a 12volt ACDC PLUG, does it matter how many amps I should get. I'm just putting the basic speakers with it. I know radios come with different amps.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/27/2015 11:10:52 AM

    Larry, When playing music at top volume, a typical car radio will draw up to 9 amperes of current during the loudest musical peaks. For gentler listening, it would be more like 3 amperes. If you're only hooking up two speakers, even less. However, you will find that the cost of such a 12-volt DC power supply exceeds the cost of a decent home radio.

  • Carl from Raceland

    Posted on 8/31/2015 4:30:11 PM

    Can someone tell me if it can be done, how to wire up a Pyle 4000 watt 4 Channel Bridgeable MOSFET Amplifier to one BOSS 2000 watt 4 ohm sub and one Lanzar 1200 watt 6"X 9" 8 ohm full range speaker.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/1/2015 11:49:18 AM

    Carl, Yes, you can connect that subwoofer to two bridged channels of that amp and that speaker to the other two channels bridged together. Set the amp's input mode to 2-channel.

  • Nick from Tacoma, WA

    Posted on 9/2/2015 7:16:30 PM

    Hi. I'm planning on upgrading my wife's 2005 Camry. The idea is to upgrade the stock (non jbl) system to a Kenwood KDC-X998 deck with a pair of Pioneer TSD1602R 6.5" in the front, a similar pair that doesn't require too much (or any) modification in the rear deck, and a sub or 2 in the trunk. I was planning on powering all of these with a 5ch Kenwood KAC-7005PS. The 6.5's are rated at 60w rms/ 260w max ea. The amp puts out 40w rms x 4 @4 ohm or can be bridged to 3 channel to put out 100w rms to each of the fronts and still leave me plenty (up to 500w at 2 ohm) for a box in the trunk. My questions are: Would I be underpowering the (4) 6.5's at 40w ea? Would I be better of just disconnecting the stock rears altogether, bridging the front and rear channels and just running the 2 6.5's in the front at 100w ea. and sub(s) in the trunk, or would I then be overpowering the fronts? And finally, am I going about this all wrong, should I be looking at an entirely different setup altogether? My goal is more clean quality sound you can "feel" without breaking the bank, than deafening volume and bass that sets off every alarm for a 3 block radius. I'm also trying to stay away from modifications to the car as much as possible. I am confident in wiring everything g up myself, but I am by no means an installer and I don't want to end up hacking up my wife's interior. Thanks for the help. Any recommendations are welcomed and appreciated.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/3/2015 9:27:03 AM

    Nick, I think in a Camry, 40 watts per speaker and 500 for the subwoofer will prove to be a good balance. Try it and if you think the bass overpowers the mids and highs, then you can bridge the channels to run the front speakers.

  • Szekely

    Posted on 9/4/2015 1:34:35 AM

    Hi, I have an MFD1 system in mi vw jetta, which has only 4 outputs for the 4 speakers - no sub out. I am using a 4 channel amplifier for these, but I would like to add another amplifier and a subwoofer, too. The current amplifier (renegade ren 1100) has an output channel. Can I connect that to the input of the subwoofers amp? Thanks!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/4/2015 10:55:14 AM

    Szekely, Yes, that's exactly what that feature is for.

  • Craig from Vancouver

    Posted on 9/24/2015 3:05:17 AM

    First of all, thanks for all of the resources and information you guys provide. I'm a little confused about the factory wires that go to the speakers. If we run rca's from the head unit to the amp, and then we run speaker wire from the amp to the speakers... What happens to the factory wire that's installed in the factory speakers? And what's the point of wiring the factory speaker wires into the wiring harness for the head unit? I hope those questions are clear. Thanks again!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/24/2015 10:20:20 AM

    Craig, If you install new speaker wiring from your amp to your speakers: 1) You should disconnect the old factory wiring at each speaker and cut back and tape the wires so no conductor can make contact with metal. 2) You'll have no need of any speaker wiring from the harness and can cut those leads from both the vehicle and receiver harnesses.

  • Craig from Vancouver

    Posted on 10/8/2015 4:05:59 AM

    Thanks for answering my previous question. I'm installing a new receiver with a 4 channel amp, and new front speakers. I plan on replacing my rear speakers at a later date. I'll be running RCA's from my receiver to my amp, and speaker wire from my amp to my new speakers. My question, is ... Can I wire up the rear speakers from the receiver harness to the factory harness for use now, and still insert the RCA's into the 'rear' output of the receiver? If so, What do I do with the loose ends of the rear RCA's? Once I install the new rear speakers, will I have to go back in and cut the speaker connection from the receiver to the factory harness? or will the RCA's override everything?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/8/2015 11:47:04 AM

    Craig, You may find it easier to go ahead and run the factory rear speakers off the amplifier until you get replacements. That is, connect all four RCA cables from receiver to amp, and run new speaker wire to all four speakers. You'd disconnect the factory harness from each speaker, secure it so no conductor can touch metal, and leave the factory wiring in place. Any volume discrepancy between front and rear speakers can be balanced using the amp's gain or the receiver's fade control.

  • Will from Oak Ridge

    Posted on 10/24/2015 10:18:11 PM

    I plan on adding a 4-channel amplifier and a mono-block amp plus sub to the aftermarket head unit and speakers I just got from you guys (Thanks!). I have a nice spot picked out behind the glove box in my Sienna minivan for the 4-channel, but the subwoofer is located in the far back of the van. Is it better to locate the mono amp in the back with the sub, or close to the other amp in front?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/26/2015 11:57:42 AM

    Will, It shouldn't matter where you mount your sub amp, front or rear. Just be sure to keep the signal wires, RCA cables, away from any source of interference like power cables or climate control fans.

  • Ed iverson from West fargo

    Posted on 10/31/2015 12:14:27 AM

    I've got 2 amps jl 1000/1 mono & fosgate r300x4 prime 4 channel. I have 2 fosgate p3 10 inch subs 4ohm, 2 infinity kappa 693.11 6x9s 2ohm, 2 infinity 4629cfp 4x6s 2ohm. Pioneer deh-x6700bs. Anybody give me any advise as to wiring it up to get best performance?

  • jay from lafayette

    Posted on 10/31/2015 9:34:14 AM

    mono amp has a out put can i use that for my four channel amp

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/2/2015 1:06:53 PM

    Ed, We at Crutchfield pride ourselves on helping our customers choose products and install them themselves. That's why articles like this Amplifier Wiring Diagram exist, to guide customers in their own installation. If you bought your gear at Crutchfield, you were advised about all the wiring you'd need for this installation or steered toward getting professional installation. And you could call Tech Support for free lifetime help with your system. Their toll-free number will be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/2/2015 1:11:31 PM

    Jay, If that signal is full-range, then yes, you can. If the sub amp is using a low-passed subwoofer output of the receiver, then no, you can't.

  • Adharsh from kerala

    Posted on 11/11/2015 8:45:24 PM

    I have only two has individual speaker and some connecting wires and one audio jack i need to creat a 2.1 audio system .what all do i need in additional ?. how can i do it can you email me the diagramatic representation of the circuit

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/12/2015 2:02:39 PM

    Adharsh, I don't know what kind of gear you already have, but a 2.1 audio system usually refers to a home theater or computer audio system, consisting or two speakers and a subwoofer, not a car system like this article's diagram shows. If that's the case, you'd be better served by checking out a local computer or home audio store for help getting what you need to get your speakers playing. If you are referring to a car system, then you can follow the article diagram using only those components relevant to your situation. Instead of a 4-channel amp running four speakers, you'd only need a 2-channel amp to run your two speakers, for example. If that's too much, I suggest finding a car audio dealership to professionally install your system.

  • Leo from Riverside

    Posted on 12/4/2015 1:08:39 PM

    I have the T-spec 3.0 Cap. I have the Alpine mrv-f300 and the Alpine mrv-V500. I have a 100amp T-spec circuit breaker switch near the battery. I ran 0-gauge and installed a distribution block. Each component has its own ground near its installed location. Both of these amps equal 100amp, so i have a 100amp breaker at the battery. The install instructions of the Cap says not to install additional inline fuses. Each amp has its own inline fuse, coming out the distribution block. Why remove the amps inline fuses? They should be there for additional protection. So what i have done is that i ran 0-gauge into the Cap and then out the Cap ran the wire into the block. From the block outputs routed the wire to each amp. What i got here is two amp connected to one Cap. From what i have read, this seems to be off. I got the 100amp breaker at the batt. If i modify this set up and run the 0-gauge to the distribution block first and then out towards the cap, from the cap towards the sub-amp with its inline fuse, will this affect the integrity of the 100amp breaker, is it too much now? Without the Cap the circuit breaker is perfect, but with the cap i'm not sure. Both amps equal 100amps. The 4-ch has a 40fuse and the sub-amp 60fuse. The 4-ch will not be connected to the Cap, it will connected to one of the outputs of the block, the sub amp will with its own inline fuse. I would like to have both amps connected to the Cap, if possible.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/4/2015 4:24:28 PM

    Leo, Those amplifiers have onboard fuses so there's no need for additional inline fuses by the distribution block. Your 100-amp circuit breaker protects your power cable and car from catching fire in the event of a short circuit. It will be unaffected by the placement of a capacitor. If your headlights dim when your system's bass hits, you may see some benefit from installing a capacitor. It should connect as close to the subwoofer amp as possible. Electrically, it'll be connected to all the amps in your system, but it will do the most good to the nearest amp.

  • Leo from Riverside

    Posted on 12/5/2015 11:11:12 PM

    Thanks for your response. If i follow the diagram or if i leave my setup intact, its not essentially incorrect, right? My capacitor is found before the distribution block and from the block, the leads are connected out toward each amp. I have both amps connected to the cap, but the optimum setup would be how its laid out in the diagram. My cap is powerful enough to have both connected. My dilemma and concern is that I cannot remove the inline fuses because if i do i will be 6 inches short and i will not be able to connect the leads to the block. I do not have additional wire of equal length to replace the positive leads. The placement of my amps are found in permanent locations and i don't intend on moving them in order to compensate for the missing length of wire when removing the inline fuses. At this point the inline fuses cannot be removed and my main concern now is whether or not is correct or incorrect to leave them. I believe it won't do no harm if i leave them, but since i have them installed rather just leave them (inline fuses were included in the Kicker kits). If i wouldn't of had them to begin with, and went out and bought them then it would have been an unnecessary expense because they are not required. My install is done, but i'm yet to charge the cap and flip the breaker. I just wanted share my setup with an expert and have their take of their point of view as to what they thought about my setup, and the main reason why i have been asking you.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/7/2015 10:38:54 AM

    Leo, It will do no harm leaving your inline fuses connected, nor will it hurt anything connecting your capacitor anywhere you want on the power line.

  • Mike from Houston

    Posted on 12/17/2015 8:51:07 PM

    I have a Kicker 12CX1200.1 amplifier for my two Kicker 40CWRT10 10" Dual 2 OHM subs. Im wanting to add the JL JX400 amp to power my Polk door speakers. What I am wondering is if the T-Spec V10-4DAK 4 AWG Dual V10 Amplifier Kit is good enough for what I need? I also plan on adding another 80 amp fuse inline for the four channel amp. Does that sound right?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/18/2015 9:40:03 AM

    Mike, That wiring kit will be fine for those two amplifiers as long as the main power cable run is no longer than about thirteen feet. Any longer, you should use 2-gauge wire. The JL Audio JX400/4D amplifier calls for a 40-amp inline fuse in its specifications.

  • Will from GAINESVILLE

    Posted on 12/26/2015 5:41:13 PM

    I have one amp that has variations on being a 5 channel, a 4 channel, or a 3 channel. Can i still supply the power for 2 door speakers and also a Subwoofer?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/28/2015 1:15:50 PM

    Will, Yes, you can run two speakers and a subwoofer with a 5-channel amplifier. You can either use two channels for the speakers and the subwoofer channel for the sub, leaving two channels of the amp unused, or you could bridge two pairs of channels together to drive the speakers (if they can take the power) while the sub channel drives the subwoofer.

  • Kris Adams from Danville, Ky

    Posted on 1/19/2016 6:24:16 AM

    Hello this morning. i am wanting to install dual amps in my car. i pretty much know how to run them but i am having questions on items that i might need extra like capacitors, batteries or more alternators. i was going to run 2 VM Audio(kind of cheap) amps at the stated rms of 550 watts. Any suggestions or will my factory electrical system withstand that?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/19/2016 1:10:35 PM

    Kris, The "extras" you mention are all different solutions for when an aftermarket stereo's power consumption overwhelms a vehicle's electrical system, as evidenced by headlight-dimming when the music plays loud. You may find that your vehicle can handle those two amplifiers just fine and you won't need to upgrade the electrical system. If you do experience light-dimming along with the music, check out this article for help solving that.

  • Jack Yew from Penang, Malaysia

    Posted on 2/4/2016 9:04:53 PM

    if my 4ch amp (use 35A) and monoblock (use 100A) which cable suitable for me and how many A of fuse i should use? thank in advance

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/5/2016 10:53:42 AM

    Jack, Those amplifiers will need at least a 4-gauge (25 square-mm) power cable from the battery to a distribution block. The cable will be safe with a 100-amp in-line fuse mounted near the battery for protection.

  • Pat from St. Louis

    Posted on 2/17/2016 10:31:05 PM

    I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta. I'm looking to add a four channel amp and new speakers. How would I wire from my factory radio to the amp if it doesn't have those outputs?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/18/2016 10:50:41 AM

    Pat, The simplest way to add an amplifier to a factory system is to get one that has speaker-level inputs. You'd connect the factory radio's speaker output wires to the amp's inputs via a harness or adapter. Another way would be to get a line output converter along with your amplifier. This device connects to the radio's speaker output wiring and then converts the signals to line-level for connecting to the amp's input via RCA cables.

  • Brendan from Australia Mate

    Posted on 2/20/2016 3:17:01 AM

    Love your work @ Crutchfield! Currently got a new project going on with my 4x4. I have a few questions pertaining to the the diagram as this is the first time i am joining multiple amps; So the PIONEER AVH-X5750BT Receiver will host 2 x DVC Pioneer Champion Series PRO TS-W3003D4 running on an PIONEER GM-D9601 DIGITAL SERIES 2500 WATT MONO BLOCK 1 CHANNEL CAR AMP whilst the 2x Pairs of PIONEER TS-A1605C 350 WATT 6" CAR AUDIO STEREO SPLITS / COMPONENT SPEAKERS will be running off a PIONEER GM-A6604 760W 4 3 2 CHANNEL BRIDGEABLE CAR AUDIO AMPLIFIER AMP Would it be safe to hook both amp remote turn on leads into the head unit or should I use a relay to draw power from a separate source? Next question maybe already answered above but should i use a 4guage from the battery to a distribution block then 8guage to each amp? Lastly, would it be just as appropriate to ground each amp separately as they will be under the driver and passenger seat respectively opposed to running them to a ground block? appreciate your help mate and would love to see the Crutchfield brand in Australia as my email already explains there aint a clue here with local techs.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/20/2016 11:45:38 AM

    Brendan, thanks for the kind words. The remote turn-on from your receiver should handle two amplifiers just fine. So will the power wiring scheme you propose, although a 2-gauge main might work better if the run from the battery is too long. Don't forget a fuse near the battery - about a 125-A fuse will ensure some safety. As for the grounds - the rule of thumb is to ground your amplifiers to the same spot, so as to not encourage ground loops. This is noisy interference caused by the different paths each amps' power has to travel back to the battery's negative terminal.

  • Josh

    Posted on 2/22/2016 2:07:32 AM

    Hi Buck, im just finished installing the Polk db-6501 component set (100W Rms, 4 Ohm) into my front doors which I connected to a Pioneer GM-6500F amplifier (60W Rms, at 4 Ohm), I also have a Subwoofer connected to a Kenwood Kac-8105D Amp (300w Rms, 4 Ohm). I have one 0 Gauge wire coming from the positive side of the battery to a distribution block which I then have two 8 Gauge (+) power cables going to each of the amplifiers. I have a 0 Gauge ground cable going from the Pioneer Amp and an 8 Gauge ground cable from the Kenwood amp both connecting to the same ground position on the body of my vehicle. I have remote wires connected from me headunit to both Amps and after connecting everything up i turned car on and the whole lot wouldnt turn on. After fiddling around the wires a while longer and some more retry's I noticed that the inline fuse on the power cable coming from the battery has blown. Do you have any idea why this might have happened and have you got any suggestions as to what I've done wrong and/or need to change in my setup. Thankyou very much!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/22/2016 10:52:33 AM

    Josh, Fuses blow for a number of reasons, including being in-circuit during amplifier installation where a sudden jolt of current occurs when the amp gets connected. A fuse that's too small for the amplifiers' draw will also blow. I assume you've used the proper size fuse, one between what the two amps can draw (110-A) and what a 1/0-gauge wire can take (about 200-A). To troubleshoot, first make sure your remote lead is de-activated, receiver off, and replace the fuse. If it immediately blows, it indicates there is something dreadfully wrong with the power wiring, probably a short circuit to ground. If the fuse stays intact, go ahead and turn on your receiver and see if the fuse remains intact and your amps power up. If they do, it was an installation error that blew your first fuse. If it blows again, you'll have to continue checking your power wiring, amp connections, and speaker wiring for any abnormalities. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help with your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, and you live in the United States or Canada, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Josh

    Posted on 2/22/2016 10:25:24 PM

    Thankyou very much Buck for your previous answer! I had a misconception with my power wire, its actually a 4 gauge wire, and I think the reason I blew my inline fuse was because i had the ground wire and power wire running thought the same distribution block which caused to much current resulting in a blown fuse. I originally had the subwoofer and kenwood amp installed (300W Rms) installed with a 50A inline fuse and everything was fine, now ive got the second amp (Pioneer 4 Channel 60W Rms x 4) with new speakers installed as mentioned in my previous comment. Due to my idiocy resulting in blowing my previous fuse what size fuse do you recommend I install for this new audio setup? The one i blew was an AGU fuse (50A).

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/23/2016 12:34:54 PM

    Josh, In your case, you add the total fuse ratings of the two amplifiers (50 plus 60) to get 110-A, which will work fine to protect the 4-gauge wire and your vehicle.

  • Frank Fiorenini from Carmel

    Posted on 2/25/2016 9:49:43 AM

    I am trying to connect my Memphis PR100.4 amp, and a JL 12W3V2 D2 single sub to my recently installed pioneer deh-3200ub. I have purchased through Crutchfield all of the wiring, and necessary items when I purchased the Head unit. I can't figure out the best way to wire the Amp from the HU, it has a single Sub out, I am using a Y splitter from the HU to amp, then to the amp and sub has me a bit confused. Can someone please give me some guidance on next steps. Thank you, Frank

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/25/2016 12:56:19 PM

    Frank, When you purchase gear from Crutchfield you are entitled to free tech support for help with your system. Give our techs a call. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Josh

    Posted on 2/27/2016 8:00:37 AM

    Hi Buck its Josh again, thankyou for your help thus far. Just finished fixing new component speaker set which i only recently installed (the Polk), midwoofers work but are fairly soft and tweeters on the other hand are ever so soft ( with ear right up close they can only just be heard). When I turn the volume up it doesnt make a difference for the tweeters. Both are connected to a crossover and then to a 4 channel amp for which I'm only using 2 channels. Could I have blown my tweeters and/or are there ways in which i can problem solve this setup to find the reason behind almost no noise coming from the tweeters? P.S. I did manage to get a some noticeable noise from the tweeters when I switched a switched from 4 channel to 2 channel on my amp but the noise was a high pitched whine.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/29/2016 12:40:38 PM

    Josh, The value of calling Crutchfield for your car audio purchases is that an Advisor will help you get the right products and accessories you'll need, and can give you some guidance on how to hook it all up. Plus you would get free Tech Support for life. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Ricky from South Africa

    Posted on 3/2/2016 5:14:07 AM

    Hi Please help - want to connect an Alpine MRX F65 4 channel amp - using the speaker level inputs and not the RCA route - do I connect the four wires to the rear of the deck and thereafter connect the speaker wires from the amp speaker out to the speaker wires on the harness Thanks

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/2/2016 11:37:48 AM

    Ricky, Check out this article for help wiring your system as you describe using a 9-conductor speaker cable. In your case, instead of running RCA cables from the receiver to the amp, you'd use a second 9-conductor cable from the speaker wiring on the receiver harness to the amp's speaker-level inputs.

  • Kimo from Honolulu

    Posted on 3/9/2016 12:20:33 PM

    Hi Buck, I had a question regarding a distribution power block. Is it necessary? I am helping my brother with an add on and i was wondering if I could just get a second amp wiring kit instead of buying thicker gauge wire, new fuse and power block and just run another line from the battery (it would include it's own fuse obviously). Any help you could provide would be appreciated

  • Kristopher from Madison WI

    Posted on 3/9/2016 1:01:05 PM

    Hello Buck, I have a question regarding relays. I am wondering where to mount that in my 2006 Pontiac G6, and where to get the 12 V power source from. I was wondering if I should connect it into my power distribution block and should I wire my ground to my other ground connection of my 2 Amplifiers I have also purchased two 8 inch stinger fans, and I have never wired those before but I have heard it's relatively easy. Could you please help with a description. Your help is always appreciated, thank you

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/10/2016 12:05:54 PM

    Kimo, It's perfectly alright to run a second power wire to your battery to power a second amplifier.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/10/2016 12:23:14 PM

    Kristopher, I'm not sure you need a relay for the remote turn-on of two amplifiers. Remote connections, via a receiver's port or a vehicle fuse box, turn on and off with the car's ignition and can work with more than one amplifier. If you do install a relay, do not use the amplifier's constant power connection for it. Use a connection in the vehicle's fuse box that turns on and off with the car, if your receiver has no remote connection. I am not familiar with those fans, so I can't help you with hooking them up. Maybe the vender you bought them from can help with that.

  • James

    Posted on 3/11/2016 8:20:07 AM

    Finished installing new component speaker system with mid woofers and tweeters connected to a crossover connected to a 4 channel amp; mid woofers work fine, except the tweeters have the faintest noise coming from them, like their also trying to play the low frequencies. FYI monoblock (for sub) and 4 channel amp are grounded at different locations. Any suggestions as to why my tweeters are producing the sound they should be?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/11/2016 2:54:37 PM

    James, I can't hear your tweeters from here so I can't tell if the noise appears when no program is playing or only when something plays. Hissing or humming or crackling when no source is playing often occurs due to a ground loop. Try moving your grounds to the same point and see if that doesn't clean things up. If you need more help and you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • tyler from las vegas

    Posted on 3/13/2016 11:16:56 PM

    I have a 5 channel amp I just picked up. I just hooked up the subwoofer for now but I have no sound to them when my last amp had sound so I know they work. Do I need to have all channels hooked up for sub to work or is it supposed to be working with my stuff connected to 5th channel?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/14/2016 3:46:24 PM

    Tyler, Some 5-channel amplifiers have a switch to select the source for the subwoofer channel's input signal - perhaps yours is in the wrong position. If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Kristopher from Madison, WI

    Posted on 3/23/2016 11:56:10 AM

    Hi Buck, I will be installing a Kenwood double din receiver (kac-791) and connecting one 4 channel amp and a sub amp, (170A total)... With my question being is it OK to connect one turn-on remote wire to my new deck to turn on both amps? Without hurting the deck...

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/23/2016 2:22:49 PM

    Kristopher, The turn-on circuit of a receiver can handle two amplifiers. Most people run one wire from the receiver to one amp, and then daisy-chain another wire to the second amp.

  • Eddie from Houston

    Posted on 3/28/2016 6:29:41 PM

    I would like to know if it would be okay to wire the speaker outputs of my 4 channel Polk Audio amplifier to the speaker harness on the back of my Kenwood receiver? I am trying to avoid running all new wires to each speaker.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/31/2016 9:17:13 AM

    Eddie, You can absolutely do that. Check out this article for tips on how.

  • Kris from Madison

    Posted on 3/31/2016 12:49:53 PM

    I am looking for the best grounding spot in my trunk of my G6. I will have two 4-gauge grounding wires, and I've heard some alternatives; looking for your advice, thank you

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/3/2016 5:17:38 PM

    Kris, I'm unfamiliar with that vehicle's trunk, so I can't help you with choosing a ground point. Perhaps someone on a G6 forum can help you. Best practice says to ground all your gear to a single bolt connected to your car's metal body.

  • Samuel from Norman

    Posted on 4/13/2016 8:16:52 PM

    I have a Kenwood excelon whit 4 Kenwood speakers two 6×9 45 rms an two 6.5 2-30 rms what amp I need to give a better sound an do I has to connect the speakers to the amp or can I connect it to the radio an have the amp input to the radio

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/14/2016 12:53:19 PM

    Samuel, Signal flows from the receiver to the amplifier, and then on to speakers - so, yes, you'll have to connect your speakers to the amplifier's outputs, either using your vehicle's existing speaker wiring or running new speaker wires. As for which amp, I've forwarded your question to Crutchfield's Sales Advisor Team, and a member will get in touch with you by email to offer suggestions and help you choose the right amp for you and your speakers. For immediate help, you can contact them via phone or chat - just click on the phone icon at the very top of this page.

  • Dennis from Newton Falls

    Posted on 4/29/2016 12:18:36 AM

    I'm having problems with the Pioneer 6700 BT. I am running a MTX 8100D subwoofe 2 inputs. Plus a kenwood kac-m3004 to run my 6×9 and 4 5" door speakers. Even though I put the 6700 Bluetooth special mode in rear with subwoofer it still takes up both channels for the rear I can't split the other one. if I put the SP mode to subwoofer subwoofer it doesn't change still both of the rear channels are for the subs. The only way I get a difference is if I change it to rear and rear and lose my subs. am I doing something wrong or is the stereo messed up? BTW the 4 5" inch speakers I am piggybacking.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/29/2016 2:28:52 PM

    Dennis, Your receiver is operating normally - it only has 2 pair of preamp outputs, one of which can be used for rear speakers, or subwoofers, but not both at the same time. If you don't care about the fade function between front and rear speakers, you could use Y-cords on the receiver's front outputs to feed four signals for your front and rear speaker amps. Then you can set the receiver outputs for a subwoofer and get the bass control you're looking for.

  • Ralph from Miami, FL

    Posted on 5/9/2016 8:56:25 PM

    I really appreciate this informative thread. Buck, I'll be doing my first amp install in my Expedition 2002. It's a 4 channel Pioneer GM A6604, hooked to Pioneer AVHX1500 DVD head unit. I just need to power the upgraded door speakers for clearer sound. My understanding is that I will be running RCA cables for the front and rear outputs of the head unit to the amp to send the sound signal. Now, i will be using your EFX 9wire for the speakers so I can avoid running new speaker wire as I want to make it as simple as possible. Based on my understanding, am I to connect the efx 9wires to the factory harness, color matching the wires and disrupt the connections for these wires between the factory harness and the head unit harness? So in theory, the rca brings the sound signal to the amp and then the efx9 wire carries the amplified signal directly to the factory harness to the speakers? Am i understanding this correctly? Thanks for your input!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/10/2016 9:38:52 AM

    Ralph, Yes, that's it.

  • Jim talbot

    Posted on 5/11/2016 10:35:38 PM

    How do you wire a sub if your head unit does not have sub outputs?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/13/2016 4:54:45 PM

    Jim, You would use a line output converter (LOC) to get your sub amp's input signals from the system's full-range speaker wiring.

  • Dejuan from Tallahassee

    Posted on 5/18/2016 1:16:20 PM

    Should the ground wire size match the power wire before or after the distribution block split. My setup: 0 gauge from battey 4 gauge to mono & 4ch amp. Ground wire for amps? 0 awg or 4awg?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/18/2016 4:13:01 PM

    Dejuan, It depends on how you run the grounds from each amp. If they go straight to the car chassis, then, in your case, 4-gauge grounds will work fine. If they go to a ground block, then it should be 4-ga. from each amp to the block and then 0-ga. to chassis.

  • Faisal from London, UK

    Posted on 5/24/2016 8:46:23 AM

    Hi, I would like to mention my setup and would like to know what you would recommend for wiring as i can see top advice is given in previous comments. Headunit: Pioneer SPH-DA120 Subwoofer: 2 x 12" JBL GTO-1214 Door Speakers: Sundown Audio SD-6.5CS (Front and Rear) + 4 Tweeters + 4 crossovers Amplifiers: MONO Audiopipe 1500D + 4 Channel Pioneer GM-D8604. At the moment, in my head i have this diagram: 2 power cables coming from battery to both amps, both amps grounded seperate. 3 RCAs coming from headunit to both amps. 1 rca for subwoofer, 1 rca for front speakers, 1 rca for rear speakers. tweeter via speaker wire to crossover. Speaker via speaker wire to crossover, crossover via speaker wire to amp. Remote leads for both amps separate to behind head unit. behind headunit, the original speaker wires, take out and electric tape closed. Am i missing anything else? Thanks for your support and advice as this will help me be more confident in ensuring ive done the wiring right.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/24/2016 1:58:42 PM

    Faisal, Like this diagram shows, usually only one power wire gets run from the battery to a power or distribution block, for simplicity and convenience, but you can certainly run two wires if you want to and can find the room. Don't forget to fuse each cable near the battery. And it's usually best to ground both amplifiers to the same spot on the chassis, by way of a ground block or not. You can run a single remote turn-on lead wire from your receiver to one amp's remote connection, and then daisy-chain the signal by wire to your second amp's remote connection. The rest of your description indicates you're aware of what's involved and have a good plan for a successful install.