CD Receivers
» Will a CD receiver play MP3, WMA, or AAC files burned onto a CD-R or CD-RW?
» What's the difference between CD-Rs and CD-RWs?
Cassette Receivers
» I still have a lot of old cassettes. Is there any point in buying a new cassette receiver?
» Can I purchase an in-dash cassette and CD player in the same unit?
General FAQs
» Can my factory speakers handle a high-powered car stereo?
» How much power does my factory system have?
» How much power do I need to get optimum performance from my car's sound system?
» How can I be sure the radio I want will fit into my dash?
» How difficult is it to install a new radio?
» What's the best way to connect the free Crutchfield wiring harness to my new CD receiver's harness?
Q: I know a CD receiver will play commercial audio CDs, but will a new CD receiver play CD-R and CD-RW discs?
A: Almost all of the CD receivers we sell will play finalized audio CD-Rs and CD-RWs. But because music is burned to recordable CDs (CD-Rs) and rewritable CDs (CD-RWs) in different ways, occasionally some players have trouble reading CD-RWs (CD-RWs are less reflective than CD-Rs, so it is more difficult for a laser to read them). Check the "Hands-on Research" tab of a specific CD receiver before assuming that your CD-RWs will play.
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Q: Will a CD receiver play MP3, WMA, or AAC files burned onto a CD-R or CD-RW?
A: MP3, WMA, and AAC files are compressed digital data, so your CD receiver must have a decoder to play them. Most CD receivers will play at least MP3 and WMA files, but be sure to check the the "Hands-on Research" tab to get the full details.
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Q: What's the difference between CD-Rs and CD-RWs?
A: Although the "R" in CD-R stands for "recordable," this is a "write-once" technology. That means anything you record on a CD-R is permanent. So if you make a mistake while recording a CD-R — if you change your mind about song order, for example — you can't erase or re-record the disc.
The CD-RW designation indicates a "rewritable disc" — you can erase and re-record on the same disc over and over. CD-RW blanks cost a lot more than CD-R blanks — they actually use a different technology and disc material. Therefore, a CD receiver that plays CD-Rs will not necessarily play CD-RWs too, though most receivers will do both. Be sure to check the stereo's specs.
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Q: I still have a lot of old cassettes. Is there any point in buying a new cassette receiver?
A: That depends. If you are really attached to your cassettes, new cassette receivers are pretty affordable. If you get a cassette receiver that has either an auxiliary input or changer controls, you'd have the ability to add other listening sources, so you're not limited to only playing tapes. You could add satellite radio or an MP3 player, for example.
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Q: Can I purchase an in-dash cassette and CD player in the same unit?
A: Yes, you can. We currently offer one cassette and CD in one in-dash receiver. You can see it at CD/Cassette models.
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Q: Can my factory speakers handle a high-powered CD receiver?
A: Your factory speakers should have no problem at all handling the output from one of our high-powered in-dash CD receivers, but there are limits to their performance. Turn up your new radio with the car sitting still, make a note of the volume level at which your factory speakers start to distort, and avoid cranking the radio up past that point.
Speaker performance is critical to listening enjoyment, so we recommend adding quality, aftermarket speakers as soon as you can, so that you can really take full advantage of the big, rich sound your new receiver has to offer.
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Q: How much power does my factory system have?
A: While we don't have exact power ratings for the systems in specific vehicles, we can tell you that factory systems have traditionally been lower power units of about 3 to 5 watts RMS (continuous) power. In recent years, however, we have seen some higher-powered factory stereos.
Bear in mind that, for example, the 100-watt factory system described by your car dealer probably consists of 4 channels of 25 watts peak power. This translates to roughly 10 watts RMS (continuous) watts x 4 — substantial power, but a far cry from the power ratings of most current aftermarket CD receivers.
Even if your factory system seems relatively powerful, there are still benefits to going with an aftermarket CD receiver. These advantages typically include better overall specs, built-in features like Bluetooth® and iPod® controls, MP3/WMA?AAC file playback from disc, improved FM reception, more extensive tone control, easier (and less expensive) integration with other equipment such as disc changers and amplifiers, and the enhanced reliability you can expect from a recognized audio brand name.
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Q: How much power do I need to get optimum performance from my car's sound system?
A: Since every car stereo is different, there's no magic "wattage formula." As long as you stay within the recommended power range of your speakers, increasing power will always add richness and depth to your music. Compare a spinet piano to a concert grand. The small piano is good enough to play music clearly, but move up to a grand and you'll gain better tone, greater harmonic detail, and more volume. The larger instrument is simply more powerful.
Here are a couple things to consider, though:
- How efficient are your speakers? Your speakers themselves have a direct influence on the overall "power" of your system. If you're planning on powering your speakers with your in-dash receiver, efficient speakers (sensitivity of 90 dB or higher) will give you more bang for the buck. Installing high-performance component speakers? An outboard amp will generate maximum performance.
- Are you adding a subwoofer? Subs need substantial amounts of power to reproduce the lowest tones, so it's essential to use an outboard amplifier with them. You should count on using more power for bass than you use to power all your full-range speakers. If your receiver puts out 20 watts RMS x 4 channels (80 watts total), send at least 80 watts to your sub. Using a 50 watt x 4 amp to drive your components? Dedicate at least 200 watts for bass.
- How good is your wiring? Your system's chain of components is only as strong as its weakest link, so don't cheat your amps and speakers with substandard power cable and speaker wire.
- Before you buy, consider your car. If you drive a quiet car with the windows up, you'll need much less power than someone who offroads in a Wrangler. Speaker location, extraneous road/car noise, noise damping material, and personal taste are factors that may affect how much power you'll need in your ride.
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Q: How can I be sure the radio I want will fit into my dash?
A: You can count on Crutchfield to have stereo fit information for just about every car, truck and van on the road today. Our Research and Development department has gathered data on thousands of vehicles, and your car or truck is probably one of them.
When you call to place an order we check our one-of-a-kind installation database to make sure what you want will fit. When you're visiting Crutchfield.com, you even get to check this info yourself. And when you place your order, if your stereo is priced at $129.99 (CAD $149.99, for our Canadian readers) or more, you'll get a free installation kit (if your vehicle needs one), a free wiring harness, and even free step-by-step instructions for your vehicle (these items may not be available for older or unusual vehicles). If your stereo is priced less than that, you can add the installation kit and wiring harness for a reasonable price. The custom instructions are still free, however.
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Q: My car has an oversized factory radio. Why can't I replace it with an oversized aftermarket receiver?
A: "Oversized" receivers come in two different sizes:
- the 3" tall (or DIN-and-a-half) slot found in many GM/Chrysler vehicles.
- the 4" tall (or Double-DIN) opening in some Japanese vehicles.
If the dimensions of your car's dash opening differ by even a fraction of an inch from these standard oversized openings, you won't be able to install one of these oversized aftermarket radios without modifying your dash.
Many Fords, for instance, appear to have Double-DIN openings — in reality, the opening is a little too small. In some vehicles, the bracket system that holds the factory radio in place won't work with an oversized aftermarket receiver. In either case, we recommend installing a standard DIN-sized radio with a mounting kit.
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Q: How difficult is it to install a new radio?
A: Helping you install your own gear is our specialty. Since 1974, Crutchfield has helped hundreds of thousands of first-time installers put a new radio in their dash, and get the job done right. With your new radio, you'll receive our exclusive free step-by-step instructions for your vehicle, along with a free wiring harness that lets you plug right into your factory wiring, as well as a free installation kit if your vehicle needs one (these items may not be available for older or unusual vehicles).
Plus, you're able to take advantage of our friendly, toll-free technical support, seven days a week, sixteen hours a day. It's like having a pro looking over your shoulder while you work! For some more installation information visit the Car Stereo Installation Guide page on this site.
Once you have attached the custom Crutchfield wiring harness to your new receiver, simply plug it in to your car's harness, and slide the receiver into place.
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Q: What's the best way to connect the free Crutchfield wiring harness to my new CD receiver's harness?
A: The most important factor here is getting a tight connection that won't come loose over time. Simply twisting the wires together and taping them with electrician's tape won't give you a strong connection. We recommend either soldering or crimping wires together. Neither of these methods is very difficult, and both will ensure a strong bond between the wires and a clean signal path to your speakers. You'll find crimp tools and connectors in the installation tools section of our web site.
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