Power Connections for Dock & Play Tuners
Part of the appeal of Dock & Play tuners lies in the simplicity of its connections. Power, for example, is supplied through a DC adapter. You simply plug one end in the appropriate place on the cradle, then plug the other end into your vehicle's DC power outlet (cigarette lighter). Presto — you have power.

FAKRA connection

Antenna Connection for Dock & Play Tuners
The antenna connection brings the satellite signal to the tuner. The antenna connection is straightforward: the antenna's FAKRA connector simply plugs into the appropriate input on the cradle.

Signal Connections for Dock & Play Tuners
There are three options for getting the sound from your satellite radio tuner to your in-dash receiver:

1. cassette adapter
2. FM modulator
3. RCA patch cables

Cassette adapter
If you have an in-dash cassette deck, you can use a cassette adapter (often included with the car accessory kit) to send the sound. Simply plug the minijack end into the cradle's audio output, and insert the cassette adapter in the deck.

Cassette adapters are easy to use and to move from vehicle to vehicle.

FM modulator (wireless and wired)
There are two types of FM modulators, wireless and wired. Many newer Dock & Play tuners feature built-in wireless FM modulators. All you have to do is tune your FM stereo to an unused frequency, engage the modulator on the tuner, and select the corresponding frequency. The tuner then "broadcasts" the signal wirelessly over that frequency; your receiver's antenna picks it up the way it would any FM signal. The drawbacks: the potential for interference, and the fact that you might have to change broadcasting frequencies as you move into new areas which feature stations on different frequencies.

Satellite radio tuner connected via wired FM modulator.

Wired FM modulators plug directly into the back of your receiver. One end goes into the receiver's antenna input; the antenna input goes into the FM modulator. The satellite radio then connects to the modulator via its audio output or satellite radio antenna connection, depending on the modulator. As with the wireless modulator, the satellite signal is "broadcast" over an unused frequency. This type of modulator is much less susceptible to interference than its wireless counterpart.

To install a wired FM modulator, first find a good mounting location. Keep in mind that you will need to access your factory radio through its antenna input, as well as connect the satellite radio tuner to the modulator.

Most FM modulators require two 12-volt connections: one to a constant power source, the other to a switched (on/off) source. Since you have to remove your radio to get to the antenna input, you'll have easy access to the power and ground wires in your factory radio harness. If you don't want to splice into your factory wires, you can make the power connections at your fuse panel. Look for empty fuse holders and insert fuse taps. You'll also have a black ground wire that must be secured beneath a nearby screw that makes contact with bare metal on the body of the vehicle.

Following the instructions on your Crutchfield MasterSheet™, remove your receiver from the dash and unplug the antenna from the rear of the unit. Plug the vehicle's antenna cable into the antenna input on the FM modulator. Next, run the output of the modulator to your receiver's antenna input (certain vehicles require an antenna adapter — use the online Vehicle Selector or call a Sales Advisor to inquire about a specific vehicle). If this leaves slack in your antenna lead, tie it up so it won't fall down and interfere with the foot pedals.

Install the satellite radio tuner and make all of the audio connections at the FM modulator. Determine which of the available modulation frequencies is least likely to be shared by a strong local radio signal and set it on the hideaway box before you mount the unit (on some models you can change this setting on the fly or control it directly from your satellite radio).

Using an auxiliary input to connect a satellite radio tuner will give you the best sound quality.

RCA patch cables (auxiliary input)
If your in-dash receiver has an auxiliary audio input, you can take advantage of the method that gives you the best sound of all: RCA patch cables. You simply need to run the cables from the cradle (they plug in here via a minijack connection) to your receiver's auxiliary inputs, and you're all set. You'll get the fullest bandwidth response, and you won't be susceptible to radio-wave interference.