Installing your speakers

In-wall/in-ceiling speakers

Tools you'll need:

• a drywall saw
• a utility knife
• wire strippers (for the gauge of wire you're working with)
• a Phillips screwdriver and/or drill (check the owner's manual)
• masking tape
• a pencil
• a level
• a chalk line or laser level (especially for in-ceiling speakers)
• measuring tape
• a scribe (for circular speakers)

Installing in-wall or in-ceiling speakers: Once you've chosen your speaker locations, check for obstructions using your stud finder. Drill a small test hole, and probe the area behind it using a sturdy wire, making sure the area's clear before cutting. To install the speaker: A. Level the template. B. Trace the template. C. Cut the drywall out in one piece. Pull out your dressed loop of speaker wire. Strip the wire and attach speaker connectors, if you like. D. After you connect the wires to the speaker, screw the speaker and frame into the wall, but not too tightly or the grille won't fit properly. E. Gently place the grille into the frame. F. Enjoy the finished product.

The basic idea behind all in-wall and in-ceiling speakers is that the speaker is held in place by sandwiching the drywall. A frame around the speaker conceals the cutout in the drywall and presses against the front of the wall. Behind the wall, the speaker has either a set of flip-out "dog ear" brackets or a bracket that screws into the frame. You should read and follow the manufacturer's instructions precisely. Here are some tips that may help (if they don't conflict with your speaker installation manual):

• Put some insulation in the wall cavity before you install the speaker to improve the sound. Put the same amount of insulation in each speaker cavity — don't pack it tightly in one and loosely in another.
• Check for any tone controls on the speaker. If the speaker is within a foot of a corner, set the bass controls to the "minus" or "cut" position. If the room is going to be very "live," without rugs or a lot of upholstered furniture to absorb sound, set the treble control to the "minus" or "cut" position.
• Don't over-tighten the screws. If you over-tighten the screws, the speaker frame may bend, or the drywall may crack. If you're using a powered screwdriver, set the torque setting on low. Let the powered screwdriver do most of the work, then do the final tightening by hand.
• If the speaker has any tone controls or has a pivoting tweeter, leave the grille off until you can listen to the speaker. Once you have adjusted the speaker, install the grille.
• Be careful handling the grilles. If they get bent, it's very difficult to use them. Grilles friction-fit into the installed speakers. Do not use excessive force to install them. If the grille does not slip in, try loosening the mounting screws before resorting to muscle to install them. Work a little in at a time, starting at one corner and gradually moving around the speaker.

Drop ceiling installation
Installing speakers in drop ceilings is slightly different than normal in-wall or in-ceiling installations. Your required materials and steps will vary depending on the type of drop ceiling in your home.

• For installations in high-quality press board drop ceilings, you'll be able to cut into the sturdy ceiling panels, use the tools listed above, and follow the directions above, too.
• For installations in thinner, foam-panel drop ceilings, you'll want to place a relatively large piece of plywood above the foam panel, and cut a hole for the speaker through both pieces. The sturdier plywood will support and distribute the weight of the speaker, while still giving you a nice, clean look. This installation technique can also be used in patios and four-season rooms that don't have a supportive ceiling structure.

Installing on-wall speakers

Tools you'll need:

• a utility knife
• wire strippers (for the gauge of wire you're working with)
• a Phillips screwdriver and/or drill (check the owner's manual)
• a pencil
• a level
• a tape measure

On-wall speaker brackets need to be drilled directly into a stud, or possibly drilled into the wall using wall anchors. If you're using in-wall wire, you'll need to make a small hole close to the speaker bracket for the wire to exit the wall. Since the speaker wire will likely be coming out of the wall directly behind the on-wall speaker, this hole will probably be concealed by the bracket. For this reason, many people choose not to mount a wall plate. You'll just need a hole large enough to pass your speaker wire without pinching it.

Start by drilling a pilot hole and exploring the space behind the wall using a piece of sturdy wire (such as a bent coat hanger). Check for any obstructions. When you've confirmed that the area behind the wall is clear, cut a small hole to retrieve your in-wall wire. Cut the drywall on an inward slant so that it'll be easier to patch when you're done. If you have detailed measurements and photographs of your in-wall wire, it may be as simple as reaching into the wall and pulling out the wire. But finding your in-wall wire isn't always that straightforward, and you may have to cut another hole to reach it. Be prepared to patch and repair your drywall. For drywall repair and cleanup tips, see our in-wall wiring guide.

If you're running wire on the outside of the wall, you'll probably want secure it to the wall within 2-3" of the speaker for a clean look. Use flat or round cable clamps (depending on the shape of your cable). These plastic clamps nail easily to your wall.

Finally, it's time to attach the bracket to the wall, wire your speaker, and attach your speaker to the bracket. This process can vary slightly between mounting brackets, so be sure to follow the installation instructions in the owner's manual.

New construction: Covering all holes before final inspection
If you're working in new construction, your last visit before you move into your new home is to install all of the in-wall and in-ceiling speakers, volume controls, infrared sensors and wall plates in your system. All of the holes in your home must be covered for your builder to get final approval for you to move in.

Speaker grille and frame painting

If you're going to paint the speaker grilles and frames yourself, here are some tips:

1. If your speakers are already installed, remove the grille from the speaker. They must be painted separately with paint that's been thinned. Only use thinners recommended by the paint manufacturer.
2. Clean surfaces with a damp cloth before masking.
3. Protect the speaker drivers. The woofer and tweeter cannot be painted. You must mask them off. Some speakers come with paint masks in the box. If not, use paper and masking tape to create your own mask. Mask off the entire baffle (the area behind the grille). Don't use tape directly on the drivers.

Many speakers come with paint masks to protect the drivers.

1. If you're painting an on-wall speaker and bracket, mask off the speaker wire connections, and any threaded parts on the speaker and the bracket.
2. Use a primer for best paint adhesion.
3. It's best to apply the paint in several light coats, and spraying the paint on will work better than using a paint brush. When you paint the grilles, use thinner paint and take care not to clog the holes of the grille.
4. Wait until paint is completely dry before removing any masking.

If you're installing your speakers in new construction, you may be working with your builder and painters to paint your speaker grilles to match your room. Be sure to schedule a trip to install them before the painters begin work at your home. With some speakers you must install the speaker and the frames and grilles; with others you can simply install the frame and grille, keeping the expensive speaker portion safely at home until the house is finished.

Discuss painting the speakers with your painter and your builder. Place the grilles for each room's speakers in that room with notes attached identifying the grilles as speaker grilles to be painted. Plan to return to the site as soon as the grilles are all painted to install the grilles into the frames. Don't expect the grilles to stay clean and unscratched if you leave them lying around the construction site. Install them as soon as you can. Since the grilles simply friction-fit into the frames, it's typically a quick visit with a ladder and no tools.