Additional features to keep in mind

Some sound bars with built-in amplification offer some of the same features you find on receivers:

• Video switching — This is a great feature if your TV doesn't have enough of a certain type of video input. Just plug all your audio/video components into your sound bar and then switch between them from there. Some sound bars also offer video conversion. For example, they can accept video signals via composite video and output component video. This can make for easier system operation, since you'll only have to switch inputs on your sound bar, and not on your TV. And a handful of sound bars can upconvert non-HD video sources to better match the resolution of your HDTV. Watch our video on HDMI conversion and upconversion or check our article on choosing home a theater receiver for more info.

A few sound bars offer video switching — the one pictured above includes component video (red, green and blue) and composite video (yellow) connections.

• DVD playback — A few sound bars include a DVD player, either built into the sound bar itself, or as a separate unit.
• XM readiness — A few sound bars give you access to XM Satellite Radio. Just add the XM Mini-Tuner package to a compatible sound bar to enjoy more than 170 channels of music, sports, talk, and entertainment.
• iPod® compatibility — Some sound bars are compatible with optional iPod docks, which makes it really easy to enjoy all the music on your iPod. Simply connect the dock to the sound bar, and you can select songs and playlists using the sound bar's remote. (Of course, if you don't have a compatible iPod dock, you can simply plug your iPod in to a spare set of stereo RCA jacks using a stereo miniplug-to-RCA cable.)
• Multibrand remote — If you don't want another remote control on your coffee table, consider a sound bar with a multibrand remote. This will let you control your other audio/video gear, such as your TV, DVD player, and satellite receiver. Some sound bars take the opposite approach — they don't include a remote, but can learn the commands of your television's remote control.

Getting connected

Fortunately, sound bars keep audio connections pretty simple.

The stereo analog jacks are great for making a connection directly to your TV, and the cable is usually in the box. Optical and coaxial digital connections are great for virtual surround sound and higher-quality audio from things like DVD players and satellite receivers.

Stereo sound bars
If you're just connecting components for stereo sound, use the red and white stereo RCA jacks. Many sound bars even include a stereo cable in the box. This makes it easy to connect the sound bar to your TV's stereo output for better television sound. If your TV doesn't have audio outputs, you can also use the outputs on your DVD player, cable box, satellite receiver, or other gear.

Virtual surround sound models
Sound bars with virtual surround sound generally offer digital audio inputs. This connection will deliver the best, most detailed sound and most convincing surround effects from DVD players and other components with digital audio outputs. Most virtual surround sound models offer one or more types of digital audio connections, including HDMI, as well as optical and coaxial digital audio.

Passive sound bars
Hooking up a passive sound bar to your receiver is also very straightforward — it basically connects just like any other speaker. These sound bars include positive and negative terminals for each of the audio channels they play — five for virtual surround models, three for LCR models (the other two channels connect to separate surround speakers). You'll just need to connect each pair of terminals to the corresponding outputs on your receiver. Speaker wire is usually included.

Powered subwoofers
Connecting a powered sub is simple. Sound bars with built-in amplifiers give you a dedicated subwoofer output. You'll just need to run a cable from the sound bar to the subwoofer. We recommend using a subwoofer cable instead of regular audio patch cables when making this connection since it's specifically designed to carry low bass frequencies. You won't need to make this connection if you choose a system that includes a wireless subwoofer, but you will still need to plug the sub into a wall outlet.

Placing your sound bar

Although sound bars are often pictured on the wall below a wall-mounted TV, many of them are shallow enough to fit on a TV stand in front of a television. If you plan on going this route, double check the sound bar's depth to make sure it will sit safely on your TV stand.

If you do plan to wall-mount your sound bar, think about cable management. You'll need to run at least a signal cable, plus a power cable if the sound bar is amplified. If you don't intend to run your cables through the wall, you can just let them hang down, or use a cable-hiding raceway to cover them. But if you do want to hide the wires in the wall, here are some important things to consider:

• Try to avoid mounting your sound bar on an exterior wall, since these walls have extra bracing and insulation that can make running wire difficult.
• Follow local building and fire codes. In many cases, this means you'll need to get UL-rated A/V cable labeled CL2 or CL3. The Underwriters Laboratory (UL) looks at heat generated from current flowing through wire, how quickly the cable will catch and spread fire when exposed to flame, and the wire's susceptibility to damage from external stresses.
• Don't run the power cable inside the wall. If you want the power cable hidden, you'll need to hire a licensed electrician to install a recessed AC receptacle in the wall, in a location where it will be covered by your sound bar or TV, and not obstructed by the sound bar's mounting bracket. You and your electrician may also want to consider in-wall power protection units. Another option is to route the A/V cable in-wall, and use a small wire raceway on the outside of your wall for the power cord.

You can find additional in-wall wiring tips and considerations in our detailed in-wall wiring guide.