Preparation and planning
Speaker placement
Generally, you'll want to choose your speaker locations before buying speakers. If you're still in the process of deciding where to put your in-wall, in-ceiling, or on-wall speakers, or if you want some detailed placement tips, check out our article on in-wall, in-ceiling, and on-wall speaker placement. For tips on placing in-wall or in-floor subs, see our article on home theater speaker placement.
Making sure your speaker locations will work
After you've chosen your ideal speaker locations, use a stud finder to locate the studs in that area of the wall or ceiling. We suggest you use a high-quality stud finder than can detect studs, AC cables, and water pipes so that you can avoid these in-wall obstacles. Remember that in-wall and in-ceiling speakers need to fit between two studs or joists (preferably in the middle of that space for the best performance); on-wall speakers need to be drilled into a stud, or into the wall using an anchor.
Always inspect as much as possible without making a hole. Explore your crawlspace or ceiling in an unfinished segment of your basement. Try to detect which way joists run and where empty wall space between studs might be. By inspecting from your crawlspace or attic, you can identify which wall locations are empty of water pipes and electrical wires. However, you still can't know what's behind the wall with absolute certainty. You must be prepared to cut and patch exploratory holes.
In-wall/in-ceiling speakers
To determine if each of your in-wall or in-ceiling speaker locations will work, you'll need to drill a pilot hole in addition to using a high-quality stud finder. This is a small hole, drilled in the middle of where you want to place your speaker. Shut off power in the area where you'll be drilling your pilot hole. Use caution when drilling, so you don't plunge your bit into a pipe or electrical conduit. Next, insert a sturdy wire (such as a bent coat hanger) into the pilot hole, and explore the surrounding area, making sure there's enough room for the speaker. Check the mounting dimensions listed in the owner's manual, including any required brackets, and make sure there's enough space in the wall to accommodate the width, height, and depth.
Don't cut any drywall until you've drilled pilot holes and checked all of your desired speaker locations. If one of your locations doesn't work out, you might want to move one or more of the others.
Once you know that each of your speaker locations will work, trace the template that came with your speaker onto the wall or ceiling. Use a level to make sure it's positioned properly. You may want to tape it to the wall to make sure it doesn't move while you work.
Use a sturdy wire (such as a bent coat hanger) to explore your pilot holes. Be sure there will be enough room (width, height, and depth) to install your speakers.
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- If you're installing an in-wall or in-floor subwoofer, the process will be very similar. You'll need to locate an area of wall or floor between two studs or joists that is capable of fitting your subwoofer. Due to the size of in-wall subs, you may need to drill multiple pilot holes, or cut a larger exploratory hole so that you can ensure that the space will be big enough. Next, trace the template that came with your sub.
On-wall speakers
It's easier to determine if your on-wall locations will work. If your speaker needs to be mounted to a stud, use a high-quality stud finder to locate the studs nearest to your ideal spot and mark the location. When you mount the bracket, you'll want it centered on the stud.
If you're going to secure your speaker to the wall using anchors, mark your ideal locations, and use your stud finder to check for any obstructions. You can find anchors at your local hardware store.
Finding pre-wired speaker wire
If you or someone else pre-wired your house during construction, and you're going to install the speakers yourself, you'll need some kind of documentation to show you where the wire is behind the wall. You can reference photographs of the wire run before the drywall went up, or the wiring plan for your speakers or similar documentation (which should be available from the electrician or custom installer who ran the wire). That way you'll know where to find the wire as well as where not to cut so you don't damage it.
Of course, if you used a hole-saving bracket while your house was being built, you won't have any trouble finding your pre-wired speaker wire. Hole-saving brackets attach to exposed studs and can be used as place-holders. That way, when the drywallers install the drywall, they'll cut holes in the sheetrock around the bracket (just like they do for light fixtures, electrical sockets, etc.). With the speaker hole already cut, and the speaker wire just inside, there's no guesswork.
If you're still in the process of planning your installation, and haven't run in-wall speaker wire yet, see our guide to in-wall wiring for detailed info.
Cutting drywall
After you've checked all of your speaker locations and traced the templates, you can begin cutting the drywall. If it's a rectangular speaker, start by drilling two small holes in opposite corners; if it's round, drill two small holes on opposite sides. Next, using your drywall saw, start from one hole, and work around the outline to the next. Use a hand-held drywall saw (not an electric one) and cut slowly. Cut the drywall in one piece, on an inward slant, so that it's easier to patch later if necessary. If you don't need to patch the hole, just remove any excess material before installing the speaker. Be sure you know what's behind the drywall before you cut. For information about drywall repair and cleanup, see our article on in-wall wiring.
Plaster and lath walls
If your house has plaster and lath walls or ceilings, installing your own in-wall, in-ceiling, or on-wall speakers will be more complicated. Plaster tends to crack and crumble easily, so you should be prepared to do some touch-up work. Running hidden in-wall wire could be particularly challenging — consider running out-of-wall wire, and using carpets, cabinetry, and other spaces to hide it. See our article on home A/V cable management for more ideas.
- For in-wall/in-ceiling speakers: After tracing the pattern of the speaker, protect the plaster from cracking by applying masking tape around the edges. Score the plaster repeatedly with a utility knife, following the pattern you traced. Then, within the outline only, chip the plaster away until you expose the lath underneath. Remove the plaster that's between the lath as well. Next, cut the lath carefully with a keyhole saw, not a powered saw. Powered saws can vibrate the lath many feet away, resulting in large cracks in your plaster.
- For on-wall speakers: Finding a stud in these walls is difficult — even some professional-quality stud sensors won't be able to tell the difference between a stud and the lath. If you can find a stud, place an "x" of masking tape over the spot where you plan to drill to help prevent protect the plaster, then slowly and carefully drill the screws into the stud. Another option is to try using a masonry bit to drill a hole. Then insert a wall anchor, and drill the bracket's screws into the anchor. Either way, there's a good chance that the drilling will cause some cracking and crumbling, so be prepared to do some touch-up work.




