2014-up Toyota Tundra
Upgrading the stereo system in your Tundra
2014 • 2015 • 2016 • 2017 • 2018 • 2019 • 2020 • 2021
In brief: This Crutchfield Research Garage article gives you an overview of your Tundra's stock stereo system and your aftermarket upgrade options. Use our vehicle selector to find the gear that will fit your vehicle.
Overview of the Toyota Tundra
The 2014 Tundra featured a host of changes from the previous smaller-bodied Toyota truck. Somer were noticeable (the massive new grille) and some not so much (the center stack moving closer to where normal-sized adults can reach it). The overall result is a good truck made better.
Three cab styles were available initially, but the standard cab was dropped in 2018. The Double Cab and CrewMax continued, and with a wide variety of trim levels to choose from, there’s a Tundra out there that’s just right for you.
The stock stereos range from okay to pretty darned good, but if you’re serious about sound, you’ll want to give your system a boost with some aftermarket gear. Here’s an overview of what you can do and how you’ll do it.
The stock receivers aren't awful, but you can get a lot more with an aftermarket model (Crutchfield Research Photo)
The Tundra's factory stereo system
The base system consisted of a versatile 7" LCD receiver and seven speakers. The premium JBL system added navigation to the mix, and sported an impressive twelve speakers. If you replace the nav receiver, you’ll obviously lose the navigation feature, so look for an aftermarket navigation receiver. You’ll also lose the factory AUX input, but it’s pretty easy to find that feature in aftermarket receivers.
When you replace the stock receiver, you’ll need the correct vehicle-specific wiring harness adapter to connect the new one to your trucks’s wiring. You’ll get a nifty discount on this and the aftermarket dash kit you’ll also need when you buy your stereo from Crutchfield.
The front and rear door speakers are powered by an amp that is located under the passenger's seat. The wiring harnesses we carry will retain that amp and keep the speakers working.
If you’re going to bypass the factory amp, we recommend replacing the low-impedance factory speakers with standard 4-ohm aftermarket speakers to prevent overheating and other damage to your new radio. The other option is to add an aftermarket amplifier.
In JBL-equipped trucks, you’ll also need iDatalink's Maestro ADS-MRR module, which allows you to install a new stereo in your Tundra while retaining the factory steering wheel audio controls and the use of the factory amp.
When you enter your vehicle info, we’ll show you what you need to replace the stereo in your truck. If you have question, you can call or chat to get advice from a Crutchfield advisor.
Here's one look at how an aftermarket receiver and dash kit will look in your Tundra (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing your Tundra's factory radio
The stock radios can be replaced by a variety of single-DIN (2” tall) and double-DIN (4” tall) aftermarket stereos. The job’s not that hard and it’s basically the same for both base and JBL receivers. If you’re new to car audio DIY, this is a good project to start with.
Before you start, be sure to set the parking brake and disconnect the negative battery harness to prevent any electrical short. Once that’s all done, grab a panel tool and pry out the lower dash panel (which contains power outlets, plus the AUX and USB inputs), to release seven clips. You can let the panel hang while you continue working, but be sure to use a clean shop rag to protect the panel and the console.
Pry out the climate control panel to release six clips, then allow that panel to hang, too, using another protective shop rag to prevent scratches and damage.
Remove the four 10mm screws securing the receiver to the dash, then pry out the receiver to release the retaining clips. Disconnect the harnesses and remove the receiver.
To install the new stereo, follow the instructions included with your wiring harness adapter and dash kit. Once everything’s connected, secure the receiver by doing the removal process backwards. If you have questions, remember that your Crutchfield purchase includes free tech support for the life of your gear.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension, clean shop rags
Steering wheel audio controls
It's relatively easy to retain your Tundra's steering wheel audio controls when you install a new stereo. When you enter your vehicle information, our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver.
Removing and replacing your Tundra's speakers is a reasonably uncomplicated procedure in most cases (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing your Tundra's factory speakers
Speaker replacement in the Tundra varies a bit depending on the system you're startting with, but most of the techniques are the same for both the base and the JBL system. Pay close attention to impedance when you're doing your speaker shopping.
The center dash speaker is easy to remove, but you'll need to make your own wiring connections (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the center dash speaker
Both the base and JBL systems include a 3-1/2” speaker in the center of the dash. The base system’s 8-ohm speaker is a dual voice coil design that’s powered by the receiver. Each coil is wired in parallel with one of the corner dash speakers. The 2-ohm JBL model, on the other hand, is powered by its own channel in the factory amp.
Whether you’re replacing the high-impedance base speaker or the low-impedance JBL speaker, pay close attention to the impedance of the aftermarket speaker(s) you’re considering. A standard 4-ohm speaker will produce lower volume levels than the low-impedance stock speakers. This is obviously not optimal, so shop accordingly.
The removal process is the same for both. Starting at the rear edge, pry up the center dash grille to release eight retaining clips, then disconnect the harness and remove the grille. Remove the two 10mm screws securing the speaker to the dash, then disconnect the harness and remove the speaker.
There’s no wiring harness adapter that works in this location, so you’ll need to splice, solder, or use Posi-Products speaker connectors to connect the speakers to the Tundra’s factory wiring. All three methods can work nicely, but the Posi-Products connectors are probably easier for the beginning DIY-er.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension
The corner dash speakers are also pretty easy to deal with (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the Tundra's corner dash speakers
Whether you have a base or a JBL factory stereo, you’ll also find 3-1/2” speakers in the dash corners. In both systems, these speakers are wired in parallel with the front door tweeters. Removal and replacement is mostly easy, but there are some nuances, depending on which system you’re working with.
To remove the speakers, start at rear edge and pry up the corner dash grille to release six clips. Remove the grille, then remove the two 10mm screws securing the speaker to the dash. Disconnect the harness and remove the speaker.
As with the center dash speakers, pay attention to impedance, whether you’re dealing with the 6-ohm base speakers or the 1-ohm JBL models. There’s no wiring harness adapter that works in this location, either, so you’ll need to splice, solder, or use Posi-Products speaker connectors.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension
The JBL system includes tweeters in the front door sail panels (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the front door tweeters (JBL only)
The JBL system’s 1.5” front door tweeters are 3.6-ohm models wired in parallel with the corner dash speakers. They’re located in the sail panels and they’re easy to remove, but you will have to fabricate a bracket or use our universal backstraps to secure the new ones. Hot glue or silicone can work, too. There’s no wiring harness available, so you’ll need to splice, solder, or use Posi-Products connectors here. Complete instructions can be found in your MasterSheet.
Tools needed: Panel tool, small flat blade screwdriver
In addition to sounding better than the base speakers, the JBL models have nifty orange surrounds (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the Tundra's front door speakers
The base and JBL systems both include 6”x9” speakers in the lower part of the front door (Or, in the case of the short-lived regular cab model, “door.”). The removal and replacement process is almost the same for both types of speakers, and while there are some fiddly bits involved, it’s not that hard to do.
You’ll need to remove the door panels to get to the speakers, a process that starts with using your panel tool to pry off and remove the sail panel, starting at the top edge.
Pry out the screw cover behind the door release handle and remove one exposed Phillips screw. Next, pry up the power switch panel to release the retaining clips, disconnect the harness, and remove the panel. Pry up the screw cover inside the door pull cup, then remove that exposed Phillips screw.
Detailed stereo and speaker removal instructions
Remove the center push-pin clip along the front edge of the door panel by pushing in the center pin, then prying out the entire clip. Once that’s done, pry out the sides and bottom of the door panel to release nine clips, then disconnect the door lock and release cables. Remove the door panel and store it somewhere safe until it’s time to reinstall them.
On the base model, you’ll remove four 10mm screws securing the speaker to the door, then disconnect the harness and remove the speaker. For JBL speakers, you’ll remove four Torx T-20 screws that secure the speaker to the factory bracket before disconnecting the harness and removing the speaker. Once that speaker is out, you’ll need to pry the harness coupler out of the factory bracket.
A variety of aftermarket speakers in various sizes will work in these locations, though you will have to remove the inner tabs on the aftermarket speaker bracket to make them fit properly. As always, speaker impedance is an issue. We often recommend Powerbass speakers for low-impedance systems when you're keeping the factory amplifier. Questions? Probably so, and that’s okay. You can call or chat with one of our expert advisors and get the answers you need.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 10mm or Torx T-20 driver, small flat blade screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver
JBL-equipped trucks have woofers down low and tweeters up near the door pull (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing your Tundra's rear door speakers and tweeters (both systems)
There’s a certain sameness about the Tundra’s 6-3/4” rear door speakers/woofers and tweeters. The removal and replacement process is exactly the same for both the CrewMax and the Double Cab, and that process is basically the same as the one used for the front doors.
You also have the same wide array of speaker sizes to choose from, the same impedance issues to consider when you’re shopping, and the same option of making life a bit easier in some cases by choosing the PowerMax speakers. Basically, if you can do that, you can do this. And you can.
You’ll need to remove the door panel to reach the lower door speakers and the JBL-only tweeters (which are wired in parallel with the woofers). You’ll need to fabricate mounting brackets or use universal backstraps to secure your new tweeters, plus you’ll also need Posi-Products speaker connectors.
The entire factory speaker removal process is detailed in your illustrated Crutchfield MasterSheet, of course, so we’ll gloss over the step-by-step stuff here. As with the front doors, it’s a reasonably uncomplicated job, so if you’re new to car audio DIY, you should be in decent shape. If you run into trouble, remember that free tech support is only a phone call away.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension, small flat blade screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver
The JBL sub is located behind the Tundra's rear seat (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Removing the Tundra's rear-wall subwoofer
The factory JBL subwoofer is an 8” model that can be found behind the left rear seat. You’ll need to remove the seat to get to the sub, but that’s not really that hard to do.
Start by folding up the bottom cushion of the rear seat. Next, pull the center seat belt latch down to release it from the seat assembly. Remove the four 17mm bolts securing the rear seat to the floor, then move the seat assembly forward enough to reach the subwoofer enclosure. Once you’re there, remove six Torx T-20 screws securing the subwoofer and grille to the enclosure and remove the grille. Pry the sub out of the enclosure, then disconnect the harness and remove the sub.
With most aftermarket subs, you’ll need to redrill the mounting screw holes, but there's also a shallow-mount Pioneer subwoofer with a variety of bolt hole patterns that will work without drilling.
You'll also need to install an amplifier to power that new subwoofer. The factory amp just doesn't have the output needed for an aftermarket sub.
Tools needed: Panel tool, 17mm socket, ratchet and extension, Torx T-20 driver
This JL Audio Stealthbox is designed for your Tundra and houses a pair of subwoofers.
Bass in your Tundra
In CrewMax and DoubleCab Tundras, there is space behind the rear seats for an aftermarket sub box. Not a ton of space, mind you, but some – as in a 53” W x 11” H x 7”/4” D space.
That's a bit snug, but luckily there is a custom-fit solution that’ll add plenty of thump to your truck. This JL Audio Stealthbox is designed for the Tundra, and contains two JL Audio subs in a sealed enclosure. The enclosure fits behind the rear seat-backs and requires no permanent modifications to your truck. If your truck has a factory JBL sub, that’ll have to be removed. You’ll also need to relocate the jack and tools that live back there.
A portable GPS will keep you going in the right direction
Other options for your Tundra
There are lots of things you can do to improve the performance and comfort of your Tundra. Here are a few ways Crutchfield can help:
Add portable navigation
You can still get aftermarket navigation functionality without installing a touchscreen nav receiver in your car's dash. A portable GPS unit will mount on your dash and give you turn-by-turn directions, traffic updates, and everything you need to make your road trip go smoothly. Plus, when you get to where you're going, you can put your GPS in your pocket and use it to find points of interest wherever you are.
Whether you keep your Toyota radio or install a new one, you have several options for connecting and controlling your smartphone. Read our article to find out more about the best way to control your phone in your truck.
Remote start and security systems
Adding remote start capability to your vehicle lets you warm it up in the winter or cool it down in the summer. The iDatastart system is incredibly convenient and makes it easier than ever to install a remote start system, so we highly recommend it. The module requires a vehicle-specific T-harness (sold separately) to connect with your vehicle's computer, security, and ignition systems, so we ask that you call to order so that we can make sure you get the right harness for your ride.
You can also talk to your Crutchfield Advisor about a security system. They’re not as easy to install (we usually suggest letting a professional do the job), but we can help you choose a system that’ll work in your vehicle.
Find the audio gear that fits your car or truck
Visit our Outfit My Car page and enter your vehicle information to see stereos, speakers, subs, and other audio accessories that will work in your vehicle.