Contact us
Close contact box
Connect ID #
428 756 563 3
Connect ID #
428 756 563 3
All finished with your chat session?

We’ll email you a transcript of this conversation for your records.

All of our representatives are
currently chatting with other customers.

Please enter your name.  
Please enter a valid email address. Why is this required?
Please enter your US phone number.  

For Tech Support, call 1-888-292-2575

Thank you, !
Our conversation will be emailed to
Please enter a question  
Don't wait on hold. We'll call you back when it's your turn to talk with the next available .
Please enter your name  
Please enter your phone number  

Please enter a message  

Calls may be recorded for training and quality control purposes.

We are located in Virginia USA.

Car amplifier installation guide

Step-by-step instructions for wiring an amp

Q: How do I install an amplifier?

A: Read this article! We cover all of the basics of where to mount and how to wire the amplifier. And we'll walk you step-by-step through the installation process. We'll also share a few expert tips and tricks along the way.

This installation guide offers examples of amplifier installation and layout. Installation specifics will depend on the make and body style of your vehicle and the equipment you purchased.

Before going through this more-detailed guide, you might want to watch our amplifier installation video to get an overview of what's involved:

Preliminary considerations

Before we get into the installation, let's talk about some of the details:

  • What installation accessories do you need?
  • Where should you put the amp?
  • How and what do you dissassemble in order to run wires?

What wiring and accessories do I need?

Car amplifiers don't come with any wiring included. You must supply the amp's power and ground wiring, an inline fuse, a remote turn-on wire, RCA cables, and speaker wires.

007CPWR1 Amplifier power wire

Power and ground wires

The power and ground wires need to be thick enough to accommodate the amp's demand for electrical current or the amp won't operate properly or put out its rated power.

Your amp's instructions will include a recommendation on what size wire to use. Or, you can check out How to determine the best size wire for help doing it yourself. Don't forget to measure all distances first, so you'll know what lengths of wire to get.


The fuse that will protect your system

The in-line fuse on the main power cable, mounted within six inches or so of the battery connection, is essential for protecting the wire, your car, and you from a catastrophic fire in the event of a short circuit. Each wire manufacturer rates their wire's current capacity differently, but as a general rule, for a typical 16- to 20-foot run, you'll be safe using a:

  • 25-amp fuse with 10-gauge wiring
  • 60-amp fuse with 8-gauge wiring
  • 100-amp fuse with 4-gauge wiring
  • 250-amp fuse with 1/0-gauge wiring
007CK4 Crutchfield 4-gauge amplifier wiring kit

An amplifier wiring kit

The easiest way to get these items is with an amplifier wiring kit, which will include matching power, ground, turn-on wires, and fuse.

120RCA174 RCA patch cables

RCA cables and speaker wire

Amp wiring kits often don't include signal wiring. Your amplifier gets its input signals from the receiver's output typically via RCA cables. RCA cables come in stereo pairs, in various lengths.

When running new speaker wires from your amplifier's output to the speakers, any size wire from 18- to 14-gauge will work fine. (The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire.) For subwoofers, use 16- to 12-gauge wires.

Where should I mount my amp?

Use these guidelines to choose a location for mounting your amplifier. A smart mounting location will help your installation go smoothly:

  • Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for mounting the amplifier and make sure it's secure. An amp that isn't secure could break loose in an accident and injure someone as it flies through the vehicle.
  • The amp should be at least three feet from the stereo to avoid noise radiated from the vehicle's electrical system. The amp can also interfere with the stereo's AM/FM reception.
  • Do not bolt your amplifier directly to your car's metal chassis — that's inviting noise problems, like ground loops which hum or buzz. You could use rubber grommets around the mounting screws to isolate the case. Or you could mount the amp onto a wooden board or plastic panel and attach that to the car body.
  • An amp produces damaging heat during operation, which its heatsink absorbs and radiates away from the circuitry. The amp needs a few inches of air space around it to stay as cool as possible. Never mount an amp upside down, as dissipated heat will radiate back into the amp.
  • Make sure there's enough room for you to connect the wiring and adjust the controls (gain, crossover, bass boost, etc.).
Amplifier mounted in trunk

A compact subwoofer amplifier mounted in an out-of-the-way nook in a trunk with plenty of air space for cooling

Good locations to install an amplifier include:

  • On the firewall (passenger side)
    Pros: You can use short wires and patch cords. You won't have to remove a seat or climb into the trunk.
    Cons: Only very small amps fit here. This puts your amp close to some common noise sources.
  • In the trunk or hatch area
    Pros: Plenty of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers. Easy access to the amp controls.
    Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords are required.
  • Under a seat
    Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cables and signal cables, which are less prone to noise and signal degradation. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
    Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation. Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS (airbag) system. Only small amps will fit. The amp will need to be protected against water from rain or snow brought in on shoes.
Running wires

Where do I run the wires for my amp?

All system wiring should be concealed for safety, and to give your installation a nice, finished look. Wires should be secured so that they do not interfere with safe vehicle operation. Depending on the location you choose for your amplifier, the wiring may need to be run under the dash, door scuff plate, pillar trimpanel, or kickpanel.


Bojo trim panel tools

The instructions below address, in general, which panels may need to be removed and how they typically come off. Often, panels can be pried up at the edges. You'll probably also need to remove some screws and retaining clips. To prevent damage, always use care when removing panels — a panel tool is helpful.

Removing the door scuff plate

The plates are usually removed by prying up the edges to release clips. Some vehicles will have screws present which will need to be removed.

Scuff plate

Removing the seat belt

A seat belt may be located on a panel that needs to be removed. Most seat belt anchor covers pry off. The seat belt anchor is secured with a large nut or bolt.

Seatbelt cover

Removing the pillar trimpanel

Remove the seat belt if present. Remove screw covers, screws, and plastic retaining clips if present. Pry up the edges of the panel to remove it.

Figure 4-5

Removing the kickpanel

Look for screws and pry-out retaining clips to remove. Pry out the edges of the panel to release and remove it.


Routing wire behind the dash

When routing wire behind or under the dash, always secure it with plastic wire ties. Be sure that the wire doesn't interfere with any moving parts to ensure safe operation of the vehicle.

System diagram

Time to install the amplifier

With that background stuff covered, it's time to get to work. Gather up your gear and tools, maybe a friend and a soda, and give yourself plenty of time.

Step 1 — Disconnect the battery

Set the parking brake and disconnect the negative terminal from your battery to prevent any electrical shorts or shocks.

Step 2 — Mount the amplifier

Mount your amplifier in the location you've chosen.

Step 3 — Install the power wire

The power wire from your amp wiring kit (usually 16-20 feet in length) needs to run from the battery, through your car's firewall, through the car's body to the amp. Find an unused grommet in the firewall or one that already has wires or cables passing through it and that has enough room for the power wire to fit through too.

Running power wire through the firewall

Route the power wire from your amp wiring kit through a hole in your vehicle's firewall, using a grommet or bushing to prevent the insulation from scraping against metal.

If you can't find an existing grommet, you'll have to drill a hole through the firewall. Make sure you don't drill into any electrical or gas lines — check both sides of the firewall. Use a grommet to protect your wire from fraying and shorting as it passes through the hole.

Fuse near battery

Fuse installed on power wire, and secured in engine compartment near the battery.

Step 4 — Install the fuse holder

The power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder installed. If so, go to Step 5. If not, find a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse-holder (included in the kit) — less than 6" from the battery is best. Be aware: even after a fuse blows, the short stretch of cable between the battery and the fuse holder will still be live and a potential fire hazard in the event of an accident. Anchor the fuse holder to a suitable spot with a screw or cable tie, so it won't hang loose or bounce around.

Fuse holder

Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire (to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location), and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper. Crimp the terminal ring (included in the kit) onto one end of the short piece of wire, and attach the fuse holder onto the other end. Strip the insulation off the end of the power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder.

Multi-amp installations

When powering multiple amplifiers, you run a single heavy-gauge power cable from your battery to a distribution block, and then connect a lighter-gauge cable from the block to each amplifier. This arrangement minimizes potential noise problems and keeps your installation looking neat. Make sure the main power cable is thick enough that it can handle the total current draw of all the amplifiers.

Check out our amplifier wiring diagram to see how the wiring gets connected in a typical 2-amp system.

Step 5 — Connect the power wire

Attach the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not directly to the battery post itself). For top-mounted battery posts, the most common way to do this is to crimp a ring terminal onto the end of the power cable (many cables in wiring kits come with it already attached). Remove the battery terminal's nut, slip the power cable's ring over the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post, and replace the nut. For GM vehicles with a side-mount post, we offer terminal adapters that work nicely.

A wire loom provides added protection for your wire against the high heat inside the engine compartment. If your kit includes a wire loom, thread it over the power cable until it reaches the firewall and cut to fit. Thread another piece over the short power wire running from the fuse holder to the battery.

Step 6 — Ground wire: the most important connection of all

As near to the amplifier's location as possible, find a bolt to your vehicle's metal frame to use for ground. If you can't find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one — be careful not to drill into any wiring, the gas tank, or a gas or brake line. Crimp a ring terminal (usually included with the amp kit) to the short piece of ground cable (also in the kit).

Ground wireScrape away any paint and clean the bolt location thoroughly, and then bolt the terminal tightly to the vehicle's metal chassis so the ground connection will be bare metal to bare metal. Use a lock washer, a star washer, extra screws, and any other technique or device that'll keep this connection tight, clean, and electrically conducting. Many people even coat the final connection with silicone caulk to prevent corrosion.

Improper or loose grounding is the #1 cause of amplifier problems.

Step 7 — Install the remote turn-on wire

The turn-on wire (also called the remote wire) is located behind the stereo. On aftermarket stereos, it's usually a blue and white wire. The remote wire will "tell" your amplifier to turn on whenever the stereo is powered up (usually, whenever the vehicle is turned on). You'll have to remove the stereo to get to this wire. For step-by-step instructions on removing your vehicle's radio, see your vehicle-specific Crutchfield MasterSheet™, or read our Car stereo installation guide.

Remote turn-on wire

Locate the remote turn-on lead behind your radio (usually a blue and white wire), and connect the turn-on lead from your amplifier wiring kit to it.

Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio and the turn-on lead that came with your wiring kit and connect them together via solder, a crimp connector, or a Posi-Connector.

The turn-on signal is +12 volts DC. If, like a factory radio, your radio doesn't have a remote turn-on output, then you can get the turn-on signal from your vehicle's fuse box. Because of its low current demand, you can connect your turn-on lead to almost any fused output terminal, like the one for the radio itself for instance, as long as it only powers up when the vehicle's on. Using an Add A Fuse connector plus a 2A to 10A fuse will make this connection easier.

You'll need to route the turn-on lead to your amplifier through the car's body — it's often easiest to route the turn-on wire with the RCA cables (next step) but you can also route it with the power wire after it passes through the firewall. The power and RCA cables should run on opposite sides of the vehicle, to reduce noise — but it won't matter for the turn-on lead's low current.

Step 8 — Making the signal connections

If your in-dash receiver has preamp (RCA) outputs, connect your RCA patch cables to them. Route the patch cables to the opposite side of the vehicle from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the power wires as much as possible to avoid potential noise problems. Now you can partially re-install the radio in the dash. Avoid completely re-installing it if you can, in case you need to fix a problem later.

If you're using a factory radio with no RCA outputs, you can get your amplifier's input signals from the factory speaker wiring. The speakers will be getting their signal from the new amplifier — which leaves the radio's outputs available to use for the amp's inputs. There are two ways to do this: get a line output converter (LOC) that'll adjust the speaker-level signal for your amp's input, or get an amplifier with speaker-level inputs. You cut the factory speaker wires behind the radio, and connect the wires coming from the radio to your LOC or amp's inputs.


Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter

Learn more about line output converters.

Step 9 — Speaker wiring

Now you have to provide a way for the music to get from your new amp to the speakers. The best way to do that is to run a new speaker wire from each amplifier output to each speaker. Use 14- or 16-gauge wire for speakers, 12- or 14-gauge for subwoofers. Speaker-level signals are not very prone to picking up interference, so it's okay to run your speaker wires near power cables.

Amp wire under back seat

Running wires is all about finding the best path. Here, we're running a bundle of speaker wires across the backseat to the amp in the trunk.

You'll have to run each wire for your door speakers through the rubber gasket or boot around the hinge, to protect the wires from the weather or from getting pinched in the door. There may be a Molex plug or a similar obstruction blocking the way, but you can usually find a place to drill a hole through it big enough to fit your wire through. Disconnect or cut the factory speaker wires and connect the new wires directly to each speaker terminal.

It is important that you keep the polarity of your speaker wiring straight. This means that each positive terminal of the amp connects to a positive terminal of a speaker — and the same goes for the negative terminals. This ensures that your speakers will operate in mechanical phase — all the speaker cones moving the same direction with the same kind of signal — and will sound balanced when playing together. The positive and negative terminals of each speaker should be labeled, but if not, the positive terminal will usually be wider than the negative terminal.

Use your factory speaker wiring

Another and much more convenient way to send the powered signal from the amp to your speakers is to run the speaker wires to the harness that’s behind your receiver, where all your car’s speaker connections are accessible in one place. You cut each speaker wire from the receiver's harness and reconnect it to a speaker wire coming from the amp. Then, the signal can flow from the amp to the speakers by way of the vehicle's original factory wiring. This technique will work fine in systems with up to 75 watts RMS of power per channel — but for more powerful systems it would be better to run new speaker wire directly from the amp to each speaker.

Check out How to connect an amplifier to a factory stereo to see how this can be done.

Step 10 — Connect all the wires

Neatly drape or trim each wire and connect it to the amp. Make gentle curves with the wires, not sharp bends that could pinch. Many people cut small slits in their vehicle's carpeting and run their wires underneath, for stealthy installations that look factory-neat. A wiring snake comes in handy for this. Tape your wires to the snake, fish it under and through to where you want your wires to go, and pull them on through.

RCA cables plugged in

RCA cables routed through slits in the vehicle's carpet, and connected to the amplifier's signal inputs

Step 11 — Turning it on

Check all of your wiring, from the battery and receiver to the amp and speakers, making sure every connection is tight and secure with no stray wire strands laying out that could cause a short circuit. Especially, check that the ground connection is tight and secure. Set all the amplifier's gains to minimum, and turn off all the filters and any bass boost or EQ it may have. See that the main fuse is properly installed in its holder. Then, reconnect your car's negative battery cable.

Turn on your car, then turn on the radio. Verify that the amplifier powered up (there'll probably be an indicator light on it somewhere). Play some music and turn the volume up just loud enough to hear. Now verify that sound is coming from each speaker and/or subwoofer in your system. If everything sounds right, you can finish re-installing the stereo and all your vehicle's paneling, and then move ahead to step 12.

Step 12 — Setting the amp's gain

Setting your amplifier's gain, or input sensitivity, matches the amp's input level with the receiver's output level, resulting in maximum distortion-free music and minimum background noise.

Gain setting on an amplifier

Setting the amp's gain

For a detailed explanation of how to do this, read our article about setting the gains on a 4-channel amplifier. If you’re installing an amp for a subwoofer, read How to tune your subs. The approach is the same, we’ve just tailored the explanation to each situation.

Enjoy your new system.

Ivy adjusting gain

When things go wrong 

Usually, once you've installed your amp, you can turn on the stereo and immediately enjoy all the extra power and detail in your music. But sometimes things just don't work like we expect them to right from the start. If this happens to you, don't get stressed out too much. Read our article about troubleshooting your amp installation for help with finding and solving the most common problems.  

Lex installing amp

Give us a call — we'll help you outfit your system

Your best first step is to call Crutchfield and talk to an Advisor about what your amplifier will need. They'll make sure you get all the necessary hardware and accessories for a successful and satisfying installation. And remember, anything you buy from Crutchfield comes with free lifetime tech support. Just click on "Contact Us" at the top of this page for the toll-free number and other methods of contacting us.

Last updated 4/16/2020
  • Aleksander Wormuth from Minneapolis

    Posted on 11/19/2020

    So currently I have my aftermarket head unit powering the speakers. I just got an amplifier, and will probably run all new speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. When I do this, what do I do with the speaker wires that are connected into the head unit ? Thanks!

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 11/20/2020

    Aleksander, Disconnect them and insulate the connectors or wire ends so they don't short out on any metal parts.
  • aileen from philippines

    Posted on 11/18/2020

    how to hook up?5 channel amp. infinity jvc kd-x130ip stereo receiver.?

  • Len from Apison tn

    Posted on 10/28/2020

    I bought a retrofit stereo and I have a four channel amplifier and I want to by wire the amp for two channels what RCA outputs from the radio do I hook up to the amp

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/30/2020

    Len, I can't tell if you want to run an active front stage with the four channels of the amp powering tweeters and woofers, or you want to bridge your amp into 2-channel mode to power front components. Either way, you should use the front left and right RCA outputs of the receiver for the amp's input.
  • Carlos

    Posted on 10/7/2020

    Hi! Appreciate all the explanations and tips. I have a question hopefully you can help me solve - If I am installing two amps in the trunk and the battery is at short distance - May I connect distribution block directly to battery with a 2-3 inch wire and skip the inline fuse holder?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/8/2020

    Carlos, You should always install a fuse as close to the battery as possible before any other piece of equipment in a system.
  • Michael Hollis from Memphis

    Posted on 9/30/2020

    I have a2014 Accord Sport. I want to use an amp for my door speakers. I am using my stock stereo with Bluetooth. When making a call I hear the call through my front door speakers. How can I retain this capability when I connect the speakers to an amplifier??

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/2/2020

    Michael, The best way to retain factory features like Bluetooth calling is to get the input signals for your aftermarket amp at the factory amplifier's output. You may need an OEM interface device for that. Give us a call so an Advisor can help you get all the gear you'll need.
  • Chris Hollis from Memphis

    Posted on 9/29/2020

    Actually aquestion. Using my stock headunit in my 2014 Honda accord that is equipped with Bluetooth. I've added all new speakers and have them disconnected from the factory wiring and ran new wires to my aftermarket amplifier. The front door speakers are supposed to double as my way of hearing my Bluetooth conversations. Since I have them ran to an amp I can no longer hear my calls. WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX THIS and still utilize my aftermarket equipment???

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/2/2020

    Chris, It sounds like you should take your car to a car stereo installer to have the wiring repaired.
  • Bradley from Milwaukee

    Posted on 9/15/2020

    Also for my three amp setup I was wondering the JBL Stadium 4 has the front and rear left and right RCA inputs and one rca output and I was wondering if I put an rca cable in the output and then used two Y splitters on the output wire from the one amp to go to my two JBL 600 amps would that work

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 9/15/2020

    Bradley, Yes, again.
  • Bradley from Milwaukee

    Posted on 9/15/2020

    I am using a one JBL Stadium four AMP for my 4 door speaker setup and two JBL Stadium 600 Amps for my two subwoofers. Will it work if I wire a 1/0 Gauge main power wire to a 1 in to 4 out distribution block to power all three amps?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 9/15/2020

    Bradley, Yes.
  • Alejandro lascano from Desert Hot Springs

    Posted on 8/26/2020

    I have a question I wanna by pass the parking brake so I got the micro bypass but you have to use the remote turn on wire and I also have a subwoofer with a built in amp so my question is can you use the remote turn on wire for the micro bypass and to turn on the amp ??

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/27/2020

    Alejandro, No. If you bought your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help with your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Willy from Madison

    Posted on 8/15/2020

    Can I run the 9wire down the same side as rca cables?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/16/2020

    Willy, Yes you can.
  • Richard Todd Fredricks from Tacoma

    Posted on 8/6/2020

    I have a single 12" Kenwood kfc-w112s subwoofer. And an eclipse 33240 premium amplifier which is a 4 channel Amp... I have a stock stereo in a 2009 Mazda 6, so I got a line output converter. How should i hook it all up?? Can I simply run only my sub to the Amp, or do I need to run all 4 interior speakers as well... Or do I need another amp?! I am thoroughly confused, can you please help me? Thank you, -RTF

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/7/2020

    Richard, An online search for that amp came up with a 2-channel amp, which would be perfect for powering that sub in bridged, one-channel mode. 4-channel amps are usually for the four front and rear speakers in a car, while subs work best with mono subwoofer amplifiers. Give us a call so an Advisor can help you sort out what you need and select the gear that'll work best for you.
  • Cristhian from Miami

    Posted on 8/6/2020

    Revised question. I have a a jeep jk and i have a Alpine KTA-30FW Tough Power Pack powering the 4 alpine speakers/tweets on the knee panels and rollbar panel with oem speaker wires on a pioneer 5200nex headunit. I an not using RCA's, im using speaker level wires from the headunit. The alpine amp gets its music signal through speaker level wires from the headunit, not RCA's. I bought a jl 200/2 amp that comes with a set of jl tower Speakers. How can i get the speaker signal to this jl amp ? I am thinking of splitting the speaker level wires that go from the head unit to the rear speakers in the rollbar (through the alpine amp) right before it hits the alpine amp, like that the jl amp gets its speaker signal through speaker level wires and not RCA's, is this correct or would i be messing with something? I forgot to mention this is the way that my alpine powered pwe-s8-wra sub is getting the signal. The speaker wires "for the front" that come from the head unit goes to the alpine amp for the front speakers aswell as it splits off before hitting the alpine amp and sends music signal to the sub.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/7/2020

    Cristhian, That Pioneer receiver has RCA outputs in addition to speaker-level outputs. Use them.
  • Cristhian from Miami

    Posted on 8/5/2020

    Hi, i have a a jeep jk and i have a Alpine KTA-30FW Tough Power Pack powering the 4 alpine speakers/tweets on the knee panels and rollbar panel with oem speaker wires on a pioneer 5200nex headunit.I bought a jl 200/2 amp that comes with a set of jl tower Speakers. How can i get the speaker signal to this jl amp ? I am thinking of splitting the speaker wires that come from the head unit to the rear speakers on the rollbar so like that the jl amp gets its speaker signal, is this correct or would i be messing with something? I forgot to mention this is the way that my alpine powered pwe-s8-wra sub is getting the signal. The speaker wires for the front speakers give music signal to both the front speakers and the sub.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/6/2020

    Cristhian, You use RCA Y-cables so your receiver can send one pair of signals to the 4-channel power pack and another pair to the new 2-channel amp.
  • Jason Missey from Cadet

    Posted on 7/25/2020

    I bought this car with an aftermarket head unit and an amp in it and the amp is wired to the door speakers for words I put a sub in it and it doesn't hit what do I do

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/29/2020

    Jason, If you bought your gearat Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Eddo from Pasadena

    Posted on 7/6/2020

    I had my speakers and amp for a while and used To hit hard and still does however I took the amp and speakers out to get my car fixed and painted.With the wires still ran and connected from the audio place I connected the 15Inch l7 4ohm to the Hilfonics Brutus 3000 Watt amp and hook them back up however one morning on the way to work my car As I had the speakers hitting hard but not too loud the car changed gears hard and my mph gauge goes up and down each time the bass kicked in....I've taken my car back to the audio place no one knows what the problem is and also took it to get checked with the electri shop and nothing...I'm beginning to think I'm the only one in this world with that problem.....Any idea would be great...Like I said before the car was painted I had it hitting hard and now I don't want to blow nothing up...And when I'm parked it hits hard and the mph gauge don't move only when I drive Then it will move and start shifting weird.Thank for helping me out if u can y'all...

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/7/2020

    Eddo, It sounds like your vehicle's voltage regulator is malfunctioning. Disconnect all aftermarket gear and have someone check the electrical system on its own.
  • Frank from Orange

    Posted on 7/5/2020

    Hello, just upgraded to a RF t500-1bdcp amp, the speaker im using is a RF p3 d2-12 my question is whats the best way to wire these together ?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/6/2020

    Frank, That DVC 2-ohm sub can get wired to that amp like this.
  • Drew from Motown

    Posted on 6/26/2020

    I just purchased a Pioneer GM-DX971 amp to pair with my 12" 44L7S124 DVC 4ohm and puts out 750RMS. I'll wire the sub to amp to put out 2ohm @800RMS. My question is I'm running 1/0 gauge wire and I'm not sure exactly what fuse to get as the Pioneer amp recommends 150a fuse for that model but I'm not sure if that's only if I'm using max @ 1200RMS @ 1ohm witch I will not be using. I'll be using 2ohm @800RMS. Also I'm going to use a distribution block as my amp takes 4 gauge wire and it also recommends to add a fuse between the block and amp. Would a 100a or 80a fuse be good for that short wire distance. Or is a fuse not exactly needed? Well thanks and I hope it all makes sense.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 6/29/2020

    Drew, That amp calls for 4-gauge power and ground wires and comes with 120A of onboard fuses. It doesn't need an extra fuse by a distribution block, just the fuse protecting the power wire near the battery. Most 4-gauge wiring kits use 125A to 80A fuses.
  • Jesus Ramirez from Riverside

    Posted on 6/25/2020

    How do I add more speakers in my truck, like, I already have 4 channel amp with aftermarket speakers 6.5s, and 4x6s. I want to add additional 6.5 speakers and tweeters but i curious on how to to it. Plus, I forgot to mention I also have 2 10's 500 rms each mono block amp.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 6/26/2020

    Jesus, After the factory speaker locations are filled, you'll have to modify your vehicle's dash or doors to accommodate additional speakers. Give us a call and an Advisor will help you get the right gear and give you an idea of what's involved in such an installation.
  • Mike

    Posted on 6/16/2020

    I'm looking to add my aftermarket amp and sub to my 2016 Tucson Limited. I'm leaving the factory radio. Do the "Add a fuse" products make it "easier" to add a remote turn-on wire? Does it simply add a dedicated remote turn-on wire for use with your amp/loc? I didn't purchase my amp/sub from you but I did purchase my amp install kit and the Lc2i from you. Would that qualify for technical assistance?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 6/16/2020

    Mike, Using an add-a-fuse is a good way to obtain voltage for a remote turn-on wire. When you buy any piece of equipment from Crutchfield, you're entitle to free tech support. Give them a call.
  • Kevin Hill from Carrollton Tx

    Posted on 6/7/2020

    What would be beneficial would be more than theoretical high level general wiring diagram, but explicit plans how to put it together with materials required, such as using ABS panels and mounting ABS, or similar plastic sheets, to the vehicle. In my case, a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado crew cab pickup, preferably under the back seat. But giving general plans can give a basic starting point that may be adjusted for the the particular vehicle one may have.

  • railgun

    Posted on 5/18/2020

    i have never ever grounded any of my amplifiers in the car chassie. i always use the negative on the battery. in my volvo v40, i had three 80 ah batteries and a DDM4A ampplifier. that amp has got two pluss and two minues powerinnputs.. took positive and negative from the batteries. guess what.. no problems at all.. no generator noice. no blinking lights. no distirtion what so ever. even did the big three upgrade. the batteries was also in parallell with 2 x 200amp fuses in to the amp, and 50mm2 cabels. so there is nothing wrong with using the batteries as a grounding point.. also what i use to do, is to use use the car chassie as extra grounding.. i have never ever had any problems with noice from the generator or with blinking lights... that just proves that the battery is good enough as grounding

  • Paul from Asheville NC

    Posted on 5/12/2020

    I am quite new to car audio, but I'm very eager to upgrade my system. So please bear with me if I ask sstupid questions 2012 Chrysler 200 convertible Are the dash speakers tied in with front door speakers in parallel? When I replace the front door speakers, do I need (will I want) to replace the dash speakers? Since trunk space is at a premium, I don't think I'll have the luxury of installing a 10 or 12 inch sub in the back ??. Can I replace the two rear passenger speakers with 5 1/4" (6 1/2"?) subs? If so, how do I get sufficient power to the subs from a single amp without overpowering the front speakers? When selecting equipment, is it safe choose differing ohm ratings between the sub and speakers? eg..subs at 4ohm, and speakers at 2. I ask because if I tie the dash speakers in parallel, won't that change resistance? Suggestions on specific Crutchfield products would be absolutely welcome. P.s. my BE&E (basic electricity and electronics) instructor in the Navy was PO Ohm. His unofficial nickname was Mister Resistor.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/12/2020

    Paul, In a situation like yours, it would be best if you gave Crutchfield a call and talked to an Advisor who can answer all your questions and help you get the gear that will fit your car and sound good.
  • kevin roberts from Cambridge uk

    Posted on 5/8/2020

    Can I connect the remote lead from my amp to the positive lead on my front speaker to remotely turn it on

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/8/2020

    Kevin, You should not connect these two very separate electrical systems together - that could destroy your speaker. An amplifier's turn-on remote circuit gets 12-volt DC (direct current) from the receiver's wiring or the vehicle's fuse box. Speaker wiring carries audio information and power via AC (alternating current) signals.
  • Steven Brugger from Brookline , Mass.

    Posted on 5/3/2020

    I'd like to upgrade my factory amp with a Pioneer GM-DX975 - What steps do you recommend sir - as well as rear deck speakers I'd like to install and will probably need a wiring conversion kit - please respond . And thank you

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/6/2020

    Steven, Give us a call so an Advisor can help you get everything you need to for your installation.
  • Kyle H from Yucca Valley

    Posted on 5/1/2020

    I hooked up my amp and stuff correctly, but the sub is playing low. Could the profit on the CD car deck be bad?

  • Winston from Windhoek

    Posted on 4/27/2020

    Hi can i connect my remote turn-on lead to 2x amplifiers and a equaliser by splitting it into 3

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 4/27/2020

    Winston, That's about the maximum amount of devices - 2 amps and a low-power accessory - that a single turn-on circuit can take. If your gear has trouble turning on or staying on, you would have to use the turn-on signal from your receiver to trigger a relay to activate a dedicated 12-volt circuit coming directly from the fuse box.
  • jeff damer from Spout Spring

    Posted on 3/28/2020

    I have a 17 Ford Focus without the Sony system. My question is I have the amp installed and wanted to connect to the factory wiring to the speakers.I am not sure where to connect the wires from the amp to the vehicles harness to the speakers. I am using the I data maestro and am lost as far as where to connect the wires at.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/30/2020

    Jeff, If you bought your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help installing your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Dwight from EVERETT

    Posted on 2/23/2020

    So I bought a skar amp sk-m9005d and for the rca Jackson the amp they are all black and the ones that come from my deck are red and black. I cant get any music to my subs I've got 2 kicker 12s . I had another amp wired up and it worked just fine so I cant figure out why this amp isnt working. Does red go on top of Chanel 1 and black goes on bottom of Chanel 1 or vise versa .

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 2/24/2020

    Dwight, If you bought your amp at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • richard panzer from Hampstead

    Posted on 12/15/2019

    where can i find the install info for a power amp in a 08'sequoia with JBL......I.E......where is the existing amp, wire diagram, and pertinent info?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 12/16/2019

    Richard, The factory amplifier for your vehicle is under the right front seat. If you buy gear from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help identifying the proper wires for what you intend to accomplish. Their toll-free number will be on the invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Daniel Parra from Costa mesa

    Posted on 10/26/2019

    Can hook up a car amp to an inverter for home use?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/26/2019

    Daniel, An inverter turns 12-volt DC into 110-volt AC, and is used in vehicles to power household appliances and other equipment. What you can use to power a car amplifier in your home is a high-current 12-volt DC power supply.
  • Odell Blake from Sangre grande

    Posted on 10/2/2019

    I have a amp xc8510 and the light keep blinking red when I raise the volume over 30 and music skipping idk whats happening any help ?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/3/2019

    Odell, Sounds like the amp gain isn't set correctly or it's hooked up to an impedance load it can't handle, but without knowing precisely what amp you're referring to, we can't help you with advice. If you want a question answered about a system, you must identify the gear by brand names as well as model numbers so we can get the right information to you.
  • vaidas from peterborough

    Posted on 9/14/2019

    Hi,I want to change in my car ne amp so i have reconnect all cables,which cable i have to unplug first ground or power?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 9/16/2019

    Vaidas, If you are changing out the amplifier in an installed system, the first thing to do should be to unplug the inline fuse by the battery. That'll make sure the wiring is de-energized, so it won't make any difference which wire you disconnect first at the amp.
  • Caleb from Vacaville

    Posted on 8/12/2019

    I connected my battery after installing sub and amp and car horn started blaring and nothing works now

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/12/2019

    Caleb, Sounds like you set off your car's alarm. An auto repair shop may help.
  • mike from Chicago

    Posted on 8/4/2019

    I purchased a new JVC KD-R99MBS for my boat and installed it without issue using the wiring harness. I also installed and amp to run 2 wakeboard speakers. My question is that I have 3 RCA connector options to connect to my amp(front/rear/sub). Which RCA output from the stereo should I connect to the amplifier

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/6/2019

    Mike, You can use either the front or rear RCA outputs.
  • Ron

    Posted on 8/1/2019

    I have a Fusion MS-UD650 in my boat & i can't figure out how to hook up rca wires to amplifier. The radio has 3 zones, left & right w/sub on zones 1 & 2. Zone 3 has i think just left & right for a total of 6 outputs not counting sub output but my amplifier has only 4 inputs, 8 channels, 2 channels on each input. I have 6 speakers & 1 sub. i can get half volume on 1 speaker & full volume on the other. Can a splitter be used or will it not split from 2(L & R) down to 1? I've read you can only split 1 into 2 . Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 8/1/2019

    Ron, That receiver has independent volume controls for each zone - maybe one of them is out of adjustment. I see no reason to use a splitter or Y-cord in this system, but maybe I'm misunderstanding your question. Not knowing what amplifier you have makes it impossible to give advice about it.
  • Ghanshyam singh ranawat Ranawat from Bhilwara

    Posted on 7/19/2019

    Sir i have ecosport i have company fitted music system .i connect my amp to high level input sorce but when i start car engine my after market subwoofer catch the engine noise pls tell me solution

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/22/2019

    Ghanshyam, Engine noise usually is a result of a loose power or ground connection.
  • James from Dickson

    Posted on 7/8/2019

    I have a 2004 Dodge Ram single cab, I have a aftermarket radio it's a KD-R690S JVC and I just took my amp and subs out of my old truck and went to put them in my dodge and everything is hooked up correctly but I am getting no sound, do I need a special adapter or something?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/9/2019

    James, If you bought your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Dakota Charland from Lexington, SC

    Posted on 5/26/2019

    In my vehicle I have speaker wires and power wires all hooked up but the amp that was it was hooked to was stolen. I have since got another amp but I know which speaker wires go to what speaker. How important is it to wire each speaker to the correct wire? Ex. Right rear speaker to the right rear connection on the amp. Would it be a problem if I put the Right rear speaker wire on the left front wore to the amp?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/28/2019

    Dakota, If you want all your speakers to work, all connections at the amp should the same as it was with your old amp. Also, all the stereo controls like fade and balance wouldn't work correctly unless everything's wired correctly. It sounds like you might have to attach extensions to your existing wiring to get everything to fit.
  • Steve from Sherwood

    Posted on 5/10/2019

    I installed a Clarion head unit in my 91 Honda Crx. I have 1 amp running the speakers & 1 amp running the subwoofer. I was not able to get sound from all speakers but then connected the remote wire and everything was working. The next day the battery was low and needed a jump to start the car (battery is only 2 months old). I charged the battery and same thing happened. I checked the alternator and it is fine but battery keeps draining. Any advice?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/13/2019

    Steve, It sounds like you connected the remote turn-on wire to a constant 12-volt source, instead of a switched source (one that turns off with the car), and the amps are always on and draining the battery. You'll need to connect that wire to the proper one in the receiver's wiring harness. If you bought your receiver at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Dylan Werts from Six mile run

    Posted on 5/3/2019

    I already have my amp and subwoofer connected and it's perfect how it is sitting, I want to re-cut and re wire all the speaker wires, red power cable, ground wire. should I disconnect my battery before I miss with it ? Should I pull the fuse ? Does it matter what order I plug them back in to the amplifier after I've recut my wires?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 5/6/2019

    Dylan, It's always best to disconnect the battery's ground when working on a system. Then, it doesn't matter what order you do things, as long as the last thing is to re-connect the battery ground.
  • Julior Tavarez from Bronx

    Posted on 4/22/2019

    I am trying to install two amplifiers using all six car speakers plus the subwoofer, my question is if those six speakers need to be connected to the amplifiers only or they also need to be connected to the stereo since their wires all appear to be behind the stereo? Also what do I need to make all this connections for example crossovers and those things. Please help me with this.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 4/25/2019

    Julior, If you are using aftermarket amplifiers to power your speakers, you need to disconnect the speakers from the stereo and wire them to the amplifier. If you bought any of your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help setting up your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Nicholaus W Altomare from FORT RILEY

    Posted on 4/5/2019

    I recently installed a jl audio mx280/4 amp to my factory stereo. I have a 2011 ford focus ses woth the factory subwoofer. Anyways, I connected the amp to the speaker wires behind the head unit directly to the speaker wires from the harness. I also connected the remote turn on from there as well. I have no idea if I forgot to do something else or if I just messed up, but when I turn the radio on the speakers will play fine at a low volume but as soon as i begin to turn up the volume the sound begins to crackle, than the speakers shut off. The amp is fine and does not power off, just the speakers. I can not figure out why. Any suggestion for what to look for?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 4/13/2019

    Nicholaus, It sounds like your factory radio is freaking out because its outputs aren't directly connected to speakers. You probably need to employ load generating devices. If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.
  • Drew from Cincinnati

    Posted on 3/28/2019

    I'm planning on installing 2 tweeters, two midranges, and two coaxials. With my budget, I can only really afford a 4 channel amp, is it possible to wire all six of these speakers to the 4 channel amp?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/29/2019

    Drew, Normally a 4-channel amp can power a rear pair of speakers with two channels and a pair of component sets with the other two channels connected to crossovers, which are, in turn, connected to the tweeters and midrange drivers.
  • Brian from Palos Hills

    Posted on 3/25/2019

    I am planning on using two Kicker amps to power a 12" dual enclosure CompR subwoofer along with two pairs of KS speakers: 6.5" component and 6x9" 3-ways. For the subs I'm using the KXA 1200.1 amp and for the speakers I'm using the KXA 400.4 amp. I also wanted to upgrade my front dash speakers to 3.5" coax (which I wanted to know if I can hook up to the factory amp). But my main question is if my car's alternator is 160 amps, will it be enough to handle this considering the subs are at 1000 RMS and each speaker will be at 50 RMS (totaling 1300 RMS)? And if not is the only way of fixing this to upgrade my alternator or is there another way?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/26/2019

    Brian, You figure a system's current draw with the amplifiers' potential, not the speakers' ratings. In your case, you've got an amp that can send up to 50 watts RMS out 4 channels, and an amp that can put out 1200 watts RMS. That's 1400 watts RMS total. The amps use Class D amp technology, making them about 80% efficient. This means it takes 1750 watts RMS from the electrical system for the amp to put out that 1400 watts. 1750 watts divided by 14 volts results in 125 amps of current. That's how much current is needed for every amp channel to be playing at maximum volume. That doesn't happen much for music. If your musical tastes lie between loud throbbing dance music and rock n' roll, the duty cycle, the time everything's maxed, is about 35%. This means that your system wants to be supplied a constant 43.75 amps. Generally, 50% of a car alternator's output rating is available for aftermarket usage. Half of 160 is 80, you need 43.75 - I think you'll be okay without needing a high-output alternator.
  • Terry Johnson from FPO AP

    Posted on 3/13/2019

    Does the amp trigger turn off when a call comes in?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/14/2019

    Terry, If you have a system that includes hands-free Bluetooth phone-calling, the receiver turns down the volume of music when you answer an incoming call. I believe the amount of volume "ducking" is adjustable in the receiver's settings menu.
  • Bobby from nicholls

    Posted on 3/7/2019

    Hi, I am looking for info and advice how to wire a lazar opti500 optidrive 2000w 2 channel amp to two dvc sundown 4 ohm subs what best way to wire as far as ohms for best sound without messing anything up? any help greatly appreciated.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/7/2019

    Bobby, Without knowing the power ratings of your subs, it would be irresponsible of me to present a wiring solution that may endanger them.
  • Cole

    Posted on 3/6/2019

    i am trying to wire a amp and sub to my factory head unit using a line output converter but i can not seem to find the left(+-) and right(+-) wires in the back of the stereo. Any tips or places to look? It's a Lexus lx570

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/7/2019

    Cole, A convenient place to find identifiable speaker-level signals for your line output converter would be the wiring for the rear speakers.
  • Chris from Vassalboro

    Posted on 3/4/2019

    Hello, I have a Pioneer GM-D9605 5 channel amp & a Retro Sound Hermosa that has 2 sets of preamp outputs. I want to run my dash speakers & cab corners off the amp with the 4 channels & run my sub with the 5th but where would the sub signal come from? Will it get signal from the 4 channels or do I need to get it from speaker wires?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 3/4/2019

    Chris, That amp features an input selection switch for the sub channel, allowing it to get its input signal from the other inputs.
  • Patrick from Dacula

    Posted on 2/12/2019

    Installing a JL 700/5 amp running 2 front 6x9s 2 rear 6x9s a set of teeeters up front and one 10" infinity reference sub. Could I just go with a 4 channel amp wiring kit and buy an extra RCA?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 2/12/2019

    Patrick, Yes you can.
  • delfino velasco from Panorama city

    Posted on 10/15/2018

    I have 3 sets of speakers . Front back seat and rear on a 2002 camaro. I am planning to run a 4 channel amp I am using a atoto a6 in dash. Intintys all the way around. Should I run 2 sets of speakers on the amp and the other set to the head unit? If so which set of speakers should I use where? Meaning the front direct to the head unit ? And the rears to the amp? Or should I run all 3 sets to the amp.?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 10/15/2018

    Delfino, I recommend powering your front and rear door speakers with the amp and either leave the rear deck speakers connected or disconnected, as you probably won't be able to hear them over the volume of the amplified speakers. Or, you could get a 6-channel amplifier, like the JL Audio XD600/6v2.
  • Adam from Glendale

    Posted on 7/22/2018

    Hello Buck, I have a question about installing 2 amps off 1 head unt. In the past I've always bridged both my hi powered amps to double my power. Then it was suggested that I use a y splitter into each RCA subwoofer jack, which of course my unit has 2 (R,L). Is that possible to run each amp off one subwoofer jack by using the y splitter? Yes, I do have a hi output alternator and a yellow top battery. I can't find any answers anywhere please help!

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/24/2018

    Adam, If you're asking can you feed two amplifier inputs from one source using Y-cord adapters, the answer is yes.
  • Gary from Reynoldsburg

    Posted on 7/11/2018

    Great article......One question through......When I run speaker wire from amp to head unit (to use factory speaker wire) ........... Do I need to splice wires to both the speaker wire from head unit...Amplifier and speaker wire to door speakers....So 3 total wires hooked together? Or from Amplifier to speaker wire leading to door....and skip speaker wires from head only 2 wires spliced together..... Thanks

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    on 7/12/2018

    Gary, The signal flow in your system should be: receiver's RCA outputs go to your amplifier's inputs; the amp's outputs go via speaker wire to the factory speaker wiring. The receiver's powered, speaker outputs should not get connected to anything - you cut and terminate them so they won't short out against any metal. In other words, you cut the factory harness and connect the speaker wires from the amp to the wires running to the speakers, and shorten and insulate the wires coming from the receiver. For a better idea of what's involved, check out Connecting speakers to an amp using 9-conductor speaker cable.
  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/28/2018

    Glenn, A good practice, when setting crossovers, is to start with the high-pass filters for the mid/high speakers and the low-pass filter for the subwoofer both set to around 100 Hz. Then, while listening to your favorite songs, you fine-tune the controls until the mix sounds good to you.

  • Glenn Thompson from Cape Coral

    Posted on 4/27/2018

    My door speakers ar kicker 43DSC6504 and my subs are 2 kicker 10 inch 43CWRT102 all run on a Pioneer gmd9605. The door speaker are on HPF and the subs set to LPF. My question is what frequency would you set the filters at for both the door and sub speakers? Thanks

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/16/2018

    Ronald, The fuse on a power wire is there to protect the wire and vehicle in case of a short circuit. The size of that fuse depends on the size of the wire. Different manufacturers rate their wire differently, but in your case I think you'll be safe fusing each 1/0-gauge power wire with a 200-Amp fuse near the battery.

  • Ronald from Valdese

    Posted on 4/15/2018

    I have installed a Crossfire C5-800.4 amplifier for the front and rear speakers and a C5-1700D amplifier to run 3 Crossfire C5-8D4v2 subs. I have completed the "Big" 3 upgrade using Sundown SA-1/0-OFC wire and I am running an Optima Red top 78 with a Rockville RFC50F 50 Farad Capacitor. I ran the same wire for power and ground. The power wire runs to an Audiopipe EFB34084ANL ANL fused distribution block. 1 line from the distribution block goes to the 800.4 amp with Jims Machineworks 0 to 4 gauge adapters and 2 lines are used for the 1700D amp with Jims Machineworks dual 0 gauge adapters. The ground wire is set-up the same way. I realize that fusing the Ground wire really serves no purpose but it did it for cost. The power wire to the 800.4 is fused in the distribution block with a 125 amp ANL fuse. So here is my question, Since I am running 2 - 0 gauge power wires into the C5-1700D which is rated for 200 amps, what size fuse should I put on each line? I hope I worded this so it makes sense and if you need additional information or I can also supply a picture if needed please let me know. Thank you

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/7/2018

    Wade, You can definitely add a subwoofer amplifier to a factory system. The second Amplifier wiring diagram shows how.

  • wade wilson from jamestown,ohio

    Posted on 2/6/2018

    Hey there I have a 2004 chevy blazer and I just got two 12 inch subs I have a stock radio in my car does that need to be changed in order to hook up an amp?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/28/2017

    Robert, It sounds like the voltage regulator in your car's alternator isn't working correctly, and the amplifier shuts down due to over-voltage when the engine revs. I suggest you take your car to an auto repair shop and have them check the electrical system.

  • Robert warren from Mckenzie tn

    Posted on 12/27/2017

    I have a 1970 plymouth I have everything hooked up and when I hit the gas pedal the amp goes off and then in a few minutes it comes back on

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/6/2017

    Matt, If you want your WiFi adapter to turn off with the ignition, you need to have its power delivered via a connection in the fuse box that turns off with the ignition, not the constant 12-volt power cable for your amplifier. Because of its low current demand, you can connect its power lead to almost any fused output terminal, like the one for the radio itself for instance, as long as it only powers up when the vehicle's on. Using an Add A Fuse connector plus a 2A to 10A fuse will make this connection easier. If your distribution block is so poorly designed that it doesn't turn its meter and lights off when current isn't flowing, then I suggest you get a different one.

  • Matt from Los Angeles

    Posted on 12/5/2017

    Thanks, Buck! To clarify, I'm not talking about a receiver in terms of a head unit. What I did was adapt a Dayton Audio WFA28 that runs on USB power (btw, it's cool b/c it provides Apple AirPlay feeding an optical connection to a DSP). The WFA28 gets current from a 12v-to-USB converter connected to a fused distributions panel, which draws its power from the main 0 AWG line attached to the car's battery. As for the distribution block I have, it has a voltage read-out and an LED on each connection with a fuse installed (the block goes from one positive 4 AWG and one negative/ground 4 AWG to four positive 8 AWGs and four negative/ground 8 AWGs). The problem with these two connections (i.e. the WFA28 and distirbution block with LEDs) is that they have a direct line to the battery, and there is no mechanism to provide the on-off functionality that a remote wire provides. Essentially, I need to know if I can find the same kind of circuit (or whatever it's called) found inside of amps that accepts a remote wire to provide the corresponding functionality. . . . Everything is otherwise correctly hooked up. All accessories capable by default of turning off and on with the ignition (e.g. amps, DSPs, head unit, etc.) all do so. The question has to do with providing that same function to components that don't have the remote wire and accompanying on-off function by default. How do I add that?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/5/2017

    Matt, If your receiver stays on even after the ignition has been turned all the way off, it wasn't installed properly and you need to take it back to the installer to fix. Receivers use remote turn-on signals just like amps do. In some vehicles, accessories like the radio stay on for a few minutes and then turn off, so maybe you're seeing that. Otherwise, you could make use of the receiver's on/off button. I've never heard of LEDs on a distribution block. Maybe they turn on when they sense current flow and will shut off when the amp does. Or you could just remove the LEDs altogether.

  • Matt from Los Angeles

    Posted on 12/5/2017

    How can I make components other than amps use a remote wire? I have an airplay receiver that doesn't need to be on all of the time and would like it to switch off when the car is off; that is, the power state should depend on the ignition's position (off when off, otherwise on). The same goes for a power distribution block I have running to three of my four amps. There are blue LEDs on it that I don't always want on. These things will drain my battery eventually. I'm guessing I'll need to make a relay tied to the ignition somehow but don't know exactly what that entails. I'd appreciate your advice. Thanks!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/21/2017

    Ronnie, Two good spots for a ground are a lower seatbelt bolt or a bolt holding the seat itself. Otherwise, you could screw a ground terminal to your vehicle's bare metal frame with a ground connector like this EFX Ultimate Ground Terminal.

  • Ronnie from Deltona

    Posted on 10/19/2017

    Hi I hope this is a simple fix. I am helping my son install an amp in his 2008 Hyundai Sante Fe and we are putting it in the rear cargo area. I am having a heck of a time trying to find a spot to place the ground wire. I am using the 8 gauge wire sent with amp but the back rear seat bolts are very hard to get to and the front ones are too far away. The rear cargo area has the plastic insert on the floor for cargo. Can suggest a location for the ground or do we need to change the location of the amp. He wanted it visible because the BOSS on the amp left gets up blue and he wants it visible. Help the frustrated dad please.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/21/2017

    Budzy, You can use Y-cord adapters to get four inputs for your amplifiers, but you'll lose your stereo's front-to-rear fade function.

  • Budzy

    Posted on 9/21/2017

    Hi Sir. I want to seek advise. I have a 4 channel car stereo, 8 pcs of 4 ohms 200W component speakers and 2 pcs 1200 Watts 4 ohms Sub-woofers. I want to use my 2 pcs amplifier (2 ch 1000W Class AB each) for the 8 speakers and 1 pc amplifier (2 ch 500W RMS) for the 2 subs. The 2 RCA terminals of the Car Stereo will be for the amp of the subs. And the other 2 RCA terminals, can I use an RCA splitter (1 in 2 out) to give signal for the 2 pcs class AB amps? I'm not sure if this is correct. Pls Advice. Thanks a lot.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/11/2017

    Charles, If your amplifier overheats while playing through a 4-ohm load, then either the amp's defective or it's being overdriven. I'd venture to guess it's the latter, and you'd do better with a more powerful amplifier.

  • Charles Burgess from Russellville

    Posted on 9/10/2017

    Hello i have a boss cx122 and a Boss AR1500M Armor Series 1500 Watt Mono Car Amplifier. The amplifier has been getting burning hot and shutting off on longer rides I've check everything I could think of. Could use some help on this thank you!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/12/2017

    Martin, Use the front and rear outputs of the receiver for the 4-channel amp's inputs. If neither amp has preamp outputs, you'll need to get the mono amp's input signal by way of Y-cords connected to the 4-channel amp's front channel inputs.

  • Martin Thomas Patrick

    Posted on 7/12/2017

    Hi i have kenwood KVT 514 which doesn't have a sub out but rear/sub i have an rockford fosgate p2 dvc and planet audio mono amp and 4 channel amp for the speakers how will be the setting for the headunit rear or sub out?? if sub how will be able to control the rear? if rear what will be the wiring diagram?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/21/2017

    James, Every 5-channel amplifier I've encountered has left/right subwoofer inputs, two RCA jacks, which sum their signals via a small circuit inside the amp. If your amp's subwoofer channel has only a single RCA input, you can use a single subwoofer output of the receiver, left or right. Bass content is usually the same in both channels.


    Posted on 6/20/2017

    5 Channel Amplifier Head Unit Stereo Output to Amplifier Mono Sub Input I am shopping for a new reciever and have found that although some are available with 5 channels, most units are equipped with 6 RCA Pre-Outs with one pair being Subwoofer Stereo L and R. I need to connect this to the Mono RCA input on my 5 channel amplifier. I have downloaded PDF manuals from a couple different head unit manufacturers and no solution such as program setting to switch output for either Mono or Stereo exists. I have not found any converter box marketed to change Unbalanced Stereo input to Unbalanced Mono output. What do I need to do to get all audio signals to my mono subwoofer?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/19/2017

    Donald, Our vehicle research photos show a large black grommet just right of center, high on the firewall.

  • DOnald from Springfield

    Posted on 6/17/2017

    I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu and i cant seem to find a good spot to run the power wire though the firewall any suggestions.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/10/2017

    Isaac, 14-gauge speaker wire will work great in your install.

  • Isaac from Merced

    Posted on 6/9/2017

    Hi, I'm running a speaker wire from trunk to driver front speaker but running it down the passenger side since I do not want to take carpet out and power cables are being ran down the driver side. Is it fine to use 14 gauge wire for this long run (25 ft give or take 3 ft)

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/7/2017

    Troy, You unplug the factory speaker wires at each speaker and leave them intact. You should tape off the ends, if there're any exposed contacts.

  • Troy from New York

    Posted on 4/6/2017

    Need some help. I bought a new pioneer head unit and speakers from Crutchfield and installed it in my jeep. Instructions etc were great! I just got a 5 channel amp and want to hook this up and read that running new dedicated speaker wires would be the best thing to do. My question is this. I'm going to use the RCA outs on my head unit to the amp. Then I'm going to run dedicated speaker wires from the amp to the speakers. What do I do with the speaker wires connected to the radio harness? Do I cut them and cap them off since I will be using the RCA outs on the head unit instead? Or if using the RCA outs, do they just override the signal that would normally go to the harness speaker outputs? Hope this makes sense.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/27/2017

    Teody, The vehicle harness that plugs into a car receiver contains the receiver's power connections as well as speaker connections, so it needs to get plugged in. You can run speaker wires from your amplifier to each speaker, disconnecting the factory speaker wires at the speaker. Another method is to run an 8-conductor speaker cable from the amp to the harness, where you'd cut the wires to the receiver and connect to the wires going to the speakers, like this article describes. What size power wiring kit to use will be specified in your amp's owner's manual.

  • Teody from Bergenfield

    Posted on 3/26/2017

    Hi, I have purchased 4-door speakers for my toyota rav4. Should i wire it directly to the amplifier without connecting the speaker harnesses to head unit? Or should i wire it both to head unit and amplifier? I will also need an advise if i can use any 4-ga wiring kit to a 5 channel amplifier. Planning to just buy rca and speaker wires separately instead of buying the expensive 5-6 channel complete wiring kit.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/6/2017

    Darrell, This diagram is of a generalized, fits-all-sizes, non-product-specific car audio system. Every installation is different, but the element components are basically the same. We present the diagram so you can get a quick and easy picture of all the elements that make up a system and how they connect to each other.

  • Darrell W from San Bernardino

    Posted on 3/4/2017

    Would this installation be the same for all general size cars?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/7/2017

    Cecil, If you want to amplify four speakers and a subwoofer, a 2-channel amplifier will not do. Try looking at 5-channel amps, where each channel drives a separate device, like a Soundstream Picasso Nano PN5.640D.

  • Cecil Hepditch from Stjohns

    Posted on 2/4/2017

    I have two JBL GX602 60W continues & 180W peak speakers & Two JBL GX 962 100W continues & 300W peak speakers along with a Kicker 300W Subwoofer @ 4 ohms. Can I connect all this to my 2 Channel Kenwood Kac-5206 400W Amplifier or what type Amp would I need ?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/9/2017

    Raul, Even if your car doesn't have a radio, it probably still has a fused circuit for one in the fuse box, that deactivates when the car is turned off. Try identifying which circuit that is and connect to that for the amplifier's power control signal.

  • Raul from Houston

    Posted on 1/8/2017

    I want to install a Kenwood KAC-M1824BT amplifier on my 1972 Dodge Dart. It has no factory radio and the fuses are the glass type. Where would I hook up the power control wire? Could I splice it to the wire going to the gas sender?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/5/2016

    Liza, If you're having trouble with a factory system, you'll have to go to an auto repair shop that can handle electrical problems. If you've had an aftermarket receiver installed, it had to have a special factory integration wiring harness in order to work in your vehicle. If you bought the receiver from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Liza from Kingsville

    Posted on 12/2/2016

    Hello, there isn't any sound coming out of speakers at all. No chiming when doors are open or when blinker is on or when radio is on. I've been told that more than likely I need to replace amplifier but have no clue where it's even located in my vehicle. I have a 2011 Chevy traverse. Fuses have been checked and all fuses are good. Would you happen to know where the amplifier on my vehicle is located.I'd hate to purchase a brand new amplifier and that not be the problem. Thanks in advance. Liza

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/24/2016

    Chelsea, When its low-pass filter is engaged, an amplifier will only play notes lower than the crossover frequency. Perhaps whatever music you're listening to has no information down there.

  • Chelsea keelin from Ashland ky

    Posted on 10/21/2016

    Why is there no sound coming out of low pass only plays in full pass?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/18/2016

    Almarie, If this Installation Guide or its PDF version don't help you, maybe you would benefit from getting a professional to do the installation. Crutchfield offers an amplifier InstallCard and a subwoofer InstallCard that'll let your local car audio installer get the job done right. Or, if you still want to do it yourself, you can purchase some expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Martin

    Posted on 10/18/2016

    I have got only 1 important comment the power wire and the ground wire should both be connected to the battery if you connect the ground wire to the chassis the current will have to flow through the chassis and find it's way through the pointwelds . or maybe worse the current may flow through other wiring in your car This will eventually give electrical problems to your electrical circuit and may or will even ruin your car i have been working with car audi / and pro audio for over 20 year and have seen some very expensive cars being ruined this way

  • ALMARIE from Springdale

    Posted on 10/17/2016

    I need help badly. I have a 2008 mercury milan I need to hook up a L7 speaker and my BOSS AMP help step by step

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/6/2016

    Adam, If you want a question answered about your system, you must identify all your equipment by brand names and model numbers.

  • Adam from Cincinnati

    Posted on 9/3/2016

    Hey my name is Adam I hooked up a 1300 wat APM to my old mobile Alero go and with 1600 watt wires and it keeps kicking off the APM if I turn the bass even up to -3

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/30/2016

    Anthony, It sounds to me like your receiver's defective, or I'm not understanding your issues. If you bought any of your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Anthony Price from Easley

    Posted on 8/29/2016

    I am not getting an sound through my amp in CD mode or aux mode but when in radio mode it works fine.have Sony explode deck Sony 1200 amp and 2 explode 10" subs

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/6/2016

    Mark, Not knowing how your powered sub is wired to your system or how it powers up make it difficult to troubleshoot your issue. Fortunately you should be covered by Crutchfield's lifetime tech support for our customers. Give them a call. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Mark from Greenville

    Posted on 7/5/2016

    Just installed the Sound Ordnance B-8PTD and so far it sounds great! However it pops when I turn the stereo on AND off. I know this isn't normal, but not sure what to do about it. Kenwood KDC-BT365U head unit.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/20/2016

    Shaun, That overview diagram is more of a general guide than an exact wiring schematic. Most guides do recommend running the power and signal wiring along opposite sides of a vehicle to avoid induced interference, although many people run them together with no problem. Most noise problems, however, come from inadequate grounding.

  • Shaun

    Posted on 6/19/2016

    Hello Buck, In the first picture, it's showing that both RCA and Power cables are using the same side of the vehicle to connect to the Amp. But I heard that they should be connected in parallel to the Amp to avoid any noise. What's your take on this? I recently had my $2000 ICE done which unfortunately making a hissing/buzzing noise. I have an appointment with the installer for the same. Meanwhile, striking my head against all the odds. Thanks!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/15/2016

    Sean, Unless your amplifier's installation instructions specifically state that you can, you should never mount an amp upside down. Internal heat flowing the wrong way could cause damage. And mounting an amp with its metal case making electrical contact with your vehicle's chassis could set up a ground loop, causing noise. One way to prevent this is to mount a piece of wood to the car's body, and then secure the amp to the wood.

  • Sean from warwick

    Posted on 6/14/2016

    Hello. Can i mount my amp ....( with plastic mounting holes) to the cats mettal chassis. I.e. under the back window dash in trunk. I knkw about heat gojng up thats why i also have 2 seperate DC fans blowing over amp to help cool

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/9/2016

    James, Even if it didn't come with instructions, if you bought your line output converter at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help wiring your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. Even if you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • James Wymer from Baltimore

    Posted on 5/7/2016

    I am installing a kicker 1200 watt amp and I bought a converter because I am using factory radio. How do I exactly hook the converter up. Do I have to use both sets of wires to hook to the speakers or is 1 sufficient?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/14/2016

    Todd, As long as you don't plan on any power upgrades in the near future, you should be fine using one 8-gauge power wire from your battery to a distribution block. Make sure to install a 60-amp fuse near the battery - most manufacturers rate their 8-gauge wire to carry up to 60 amps before failing, and you want the fuse to blow before the wire and your car burn up in the event of a short circuit. Using a fused distribution block with two 40-amp fuses, or installing them inline after the block, will further protect your amps and installation.

  • Todd Trap from Kentwood

    Posted on 4/13/2016

    Hello. I have a single cab pick-up truck. So far the system I'm putting together includes: Pioneer FHX820BS receiver, Polk Audio DB651s door speakers, JL Audio Microsub CP106Lg-W3v3 6.50 Subwoofer and Kicker CX300.1 mono amp. I was originally going to run the door speakers off of the head unit but now want to add a 2-channel amp. I want to purchase the Kicker DXA125.2 2-channel amp (30 watts RMS x 2). What would be the best way to wire up up both of these amps? I was thinking about getting the EFX PAD 8BX Wiring Kit (for adding second amp) to go along with my current EFX 8 gauge wiring kit. Neither amp has an on board fuse and they both need a 40 amp fuse at the battery. I'm a little confused on how to use the wiring kit for adding the second amp. Would I use one 80 amp fuse at the battery and two 40 amp fuses in the distribution block? Can I splice into the remote wire from the other amp without any problems? Or am I better off just running a single power wire from each amp (one 40 amp fuse on each) to the battery and running two separate remote wires from the receiver to the amps? Just looking for the easiest way to do this.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/28/2016

    Nick, Call Crutchfield Tech Support for help and advice. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you can't find it, you can still contact them via phone - just click on the phone icon at the very top of this page for information.

  • Nick Looper from Waskom

    Posted on 3/27/2016

    I'm having some kind of trouble with my truck. I recently installed a amp problem and sub that I purchased from yall. Somehow, it caused my body control module to go out and have to be replaced by the ford dealership and suggested advice?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/10/2016

    Kobe, A list of what may be wrong is long. Here are some things to check for: Is the subwoofer output of your receiver turned on? Is the ground wire absolutely secure - bare metal-to-bare metal contact? Is the amp seeing less than a 1-ohm load? Is any speaker wire touching the car's metal frame or another wire? If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Kobe Rourke from California md

    Posted on 3/8/2016

    Hello, I have a hifonics Brutus 2000.1 anmp and 4 guage wiring kit. The amp powers on but the subs get no sound from the amp. They are new subs and have been hooked directly to the head unit and work. And I've switched out all rca cables. Also I've hooked up an old amp that I knew worked and still had no sound to subs. Also I have got new speaker wire from the amp to the subs. Any responses would be greatly appreciated

  • David Pagnott from Palm Harbor, Florida

    Posted on 3/8/2016

    I have a DEH P3100Ub Pioneer deck..I am adding Two RF 501bd amps and two Punch P3 12" subs,(dual voice coil 4 ohm)(can they be wired to two ohms and have the amps remain stable?)... plus I am adding a RF 301x 900 4 channel amp for my speakers.The deck only has two pre-outs and the amps (vintage) dont have "outs" i have to split rca's for the sub amps, and for the 4 channel amp as well.(is that correct?).I am wiring this to a 98 ford escort zx2 cool coupe..the car is 14.2 feet long..the amps are being mounted in the trunk ..farthest from the battery as you can just worked out that way......can you give me a list of exactly what i will need?..including fuses and distribution blocks? Plus wire for wiring the subs and four speakers..using 4gage for main power and ground and 12 gage wire for subs and 14g for speakers?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/26/2016

    Marc, The installation manual for that sub is rather confusing, but I think it's showing that its switched and constant power wires can hook up with the wires that power the receiver. That means that it will probably be alright using the vehicle's fuse box to get power.

  • Marc Cozad from Pembroke

    Posted on 2/26/2016

    I'm thinking about getting a Kenwood KSC-SW1. I just need a little more bass from the OEM radio. The specs say it has a maximum current consumption of 8.5 amps. The question is, with the power consumption only at 8.5 amps can I hook the power to the in cabin fuse box? I think the installation manual shows it going to the fuse box first. The inline fuse that comes with it is 10a.

  • avery cotton from louisville

    Posted on 1/31/2016

    I have a 2007 Toyota Camry factory radio , jbl , I need to know what items I need and instructions for installation wireing guide..

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/28/2015

    Chris, Those two amplifiers should be okay using a single 4-gauge wire from the battery to a distribution block and 8-gauge wires from there to each amp. Although it won't hurt anything using larger wire, 1/0-gauge wire may be expensive overkill. And one 1/0-gauge wire will be able to carry about the same amount of current per second as two 4-gauge wires, so only convenience matters as to which way to go for that.

  • Chris from Los Angeles

    Posted on 12/27/2015

    Hi, Gonna run a Rockford fosgate prime 500.1 to one rf p2d4-12 and an rf prime 300.4 to four door kicker door speakers 41-dsc654.. Not too much power.. Question is would it be better to run two separate 4 gauge power kits or run a 1/0 to a distribution block and then 4ga to each amp.. Thank you and happy holidays

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/9/2015

    Raul, You'll need to connect your amp's remote turn-on lead to any 12-volt circuit that comes on when the car gets turned on, like the radio's power terminal in the fuse box or a powered antenna. If your amplifier has speaker-level inputs you could connect them to the radio's speaker wiring to get input signals. Otherwise you'll need to get a line output converter to send RCA line-level signals to the amp from the speaker wiring. If you bought your amplifier at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help wiring your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Raul Hurtado from BAKERSFIELD

    Posted on 12/8/2015

    Hello i have a 1998 mercedes e320 and im having trouble trying to install my amp. Because im trying to keep the original stereo and i dont know where to get the remote wire. Or the rca wire.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/18/2015

    Alvaro, I recommend going back to whoever installed the amp, point out the issues, and try and get them to correct them. It sounds like a separate RCA cable for each output channel of the receiver was not installed - although lack of left-right balance control is puzzling. If you bought your amplifier at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Alvaro Ceballos from West Palm Beach

    Posted on 9/17/2015

    A JVC KWV41BT head unit, a 4 channel amp for component speakers and an amp for a subwoofer were installed in my car but I can't seem to tune the EQ for the speakers and subwoofers separately. I also don't have fader or balance controls; channeling the sound to either front, back, left, right just doesn't work and the music still sounds the same intensity from the speakers and subwoofer regardless. What could be the issue?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/11/2015

    Felix, With the main fuse by the battery and each amplifier having its own onboard fuses, you'll be okay using an unfused distribution block.

  • Felix Harvey from Dyer

    Posted on 8/11/2015

    Adding two amps to my truck next week. One has three 30 amp fuses already installed and the other has 2 30 amp fuses already installed. Do I need a fused or unfused power distribution block? I am going to run 0 gauge wire from the battery with a 150 amp ANL fuse close to it.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/14/2015

    Roy, If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Roy Nickerson from port Allegany

    Posted on 7/13/2015

    I need help I have a vr-3 headunit and a vr-3 amp I have the amp were it will turn on but im haveing truble with the rca cord I have only one sub hook up and a 2 channel amp I have the y splitter hooked up to the one sub conecter and then both my rca cords hooked into that and on the amp I have them pluged into the line in holes and my speakers are hooked up the amp is not running my speakers I have the out ports and dont know how to hook them up and were to hook them up

  • Robert Riddle from Henderson NV.

    Posted on 7/3/2015

    Just a thought, there are grommets available for your power wire from battery through firewall or any metal that when locked make a water proof seal between the grommet and the metal and also a seal around the power wire. I use a dielectric grease on all threads and around the wire for a backup to the seals of the grommet. The grommets are price effective and worth every penny. These are a compression type fitting for a good seal.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/5/2015

    Bryan, A powered subwoofer sure is more convenient to install than a separate amplifier and sub enclosure, but, except for speaker wiring, you still have to go through all the same installation steps as you would for any other amplifier.

  • Bryan from corapeake, NC

    Posted on 6/5/2015

    i want to add a powered subwoofer to my existing 2008 RAM 1500 4 speaker system. do i have to go through all of this set up like stuff for that? are there specific instructions for powered subwoofers?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/27/2015

    Clint, Sorry but I am unfamiliar with that motorcycle and what systems would work in it. The Goldwing isn't even in Crutchfield's vehicle database. You'll need to look for an amplifier that's compact and made to withstand the outdoor environment - in other words designed for marine or power sports use. You might find better suggestions in the Goldwing Owners Forums.

  • Clint from Decatur Illinois

    Posted on 5/22/2015

    Can you describe a installation of a 200W amp on a 2004 Honda Goldwing?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/11/2015

    Justin, Usually when engine noise is heard in a system it's because of a loose ground or power connection, but other things may contribute. Check out this article for help troubleshooting your problem. Maybe you could try grounding it at a different point. If you bought your sub from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Justin Garrison from Apex, NC

    Posted on 5/11/2015

    Hi, I installed a powered subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-10) in my 2014 Honda Accord, and I hear some humming/rumbling when I start my car engine. I kept the factory stereo, so I had to use a 2-Line Converter to connect the rear speakers to the RCAs in the subwoofer. When I turn on my car engine, I hear 4 loud rumbles from the subwoofer, roughly 1 second apart. The car stereo is "off" when I start the engine, and the sub does not even turn on until the stereo starts playing music (the sub detects 'audio' in order to power itself on). I do NOT hear the rumble if I turn the car to Acc/On, it only happens when I start the engine. I tried sanding down the ground location in my trunk and re-attaching the ground wire, but that did not fix the problem. Any ideas? Is there an "ideal" ground location in the trunk of a 2014 Accord? Also, I noticed a small spark when I re-attached the ground wire to the bolt this time. Is that a red flag? Thanks!