XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles

I have Massive Audio midbass 6-1/2 speakers for my car and the width of the magnet doesn't look like it will fit. I just want to know if they will without cutting them to fit?

In the near future I plan to install a new audio system in my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer. It had a Delco cassette / radio from the factory, not the Bose system, so I don't think I'll need any kind of exotic supplementary accessories. I have an Atoto S8 Gen-2 Media Player head unit I'll be mounting along with Infinity Reference REF-6532ex 6 1/2" 2-way Coaxials. One in each of the 4 doors. I'm sorry about the boring equipment rundown, but I need your advice and you need information to advise me correctly. 01) My car has the On-Star system, but when I bought the vehicle from the dealer, it was not activated and I decided not to pay extra for the service, so I was uncertain how to answer your question. Yes, my car is equipped with the On-Star device, but it is not in use. How does this impact my installation? 02) Next, speakers installed in the doors of my last 2 car stereo installations have ALL failed within 2 years (the second set was installed by a so-called "audio salon". I attribute this failure to water dripping inside the doors when it rains. My solution will be to install baffles over all speakers as per directions on your company's website and then run new insulated speaker cables after which the connections will be soldered and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. 03) Please advise which baffles would fit my vehicle and speakers best (I am concerned about window clearance and speaker mounting depth). Do you have speaker cables in-stock that are resistant to water & moisture? What type of connectors are the best for attaching cables to Infinity 6 1/2" speakers? *Note: I plan to solder these cables to the speaker lugs, but might consider a detachable cable connection, if it is so tight that it requires pliers (hey, that rhymes :-) to pull apart. I know that most people wouldn't spend 5 seconds worrying about speaker-to-wire connections, but most people haven't experienced speaker drop-out 8-times in a 5-year period, each instance stemming from a different speaker! This is not an exaggeration. I went to an "audio salon" that insisted I had blown my speakers the first time around (a ludicrous suggestion, since I rarely play my music above a conversational level) and they ostensibly managed to sell me new drivers all around. That was over a year ago and now, again, they insist I'm over-working the volume control to that notion I replied, "Wanna bet? How about we put a meter on those speakers?" That silenced them and I walked out. I thought about it long and hard and did due diligence on the internet. It seems that my particular make & model car has issues when it rains, allowing water to stream down the window panels and seep inside the door. At that point, the speaker cables provide a "super highway" for the rainwater to run down the wire, repeatedly pelting the speaker lugs until they corrode. Shortly thereafter I get a cable-break with the speaker. The entire process takes maybe 1 - 2 years... nice, huh? This time I'm doing the install myself and intend to solve this problem permanently. I certainly welcome any advice. Crutchfield has a solid reputation, so I value your input which I will carefully consider before I either adopt or reject. Thank you for your assistance! J.S. Brown Wilmington, DE

Will these work with B&W ccm65 for drop ceiling?

Will these work with the JBL 621F speaker?

If I don't cut out the bottom off these and keep them sealed,how much does running these kill the bass response? I'm running subs so anything below around 80hz doesn't matter anyway. I'm running kicker components in front doors and kicker coax in the rear.

Are these sold a a pair or individually?

Will these fit the doors of my 1994 F150 regular cab??