What are factory sound processors?
Upgrade your sound and keep your factory stereo

Kicker's Front Row puts your music where it should be — right up in front of you
Factory car stereos are getting more and more complicated, as car manufacturers move away from standard-sized receivers to complicated, integrated designs. Often they are tied into a navigation system, climate controls, or other electronic functions, which make swapping them out for aftermarket stereos difficult or even impossible. The problem is, its sound might not be up to your lofty standards.
Replacing the factory speakers is a great way to start. You might also choose to add an amplifier or subwoofer — or both. All of these things, done together or on their own, will improve your factory stereo's sound. But there will always be something holding you back, and it's built right into the stereo.
Factory stereos have built-in sound shaping
Your factory stereo uses preset equalization designed to make cheap factory speakers sound better, meaning that it automatically adjusts the different frequencies, creating audio "peaks and valleys" which can degrade sound quality. It is particularly noticeable when you add amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers to your setup, as any deficits in the sound are literally amplified.
Most factory stereos also limit the bass output as volume increases in an attempt to protect the speakers. The trouble is, even if you upgrade your speakers and install an amp and subwoofer, the bass output is still limited by your factory stereo. This throws your system out of balance and makes the bass sound muddy and weak.
How can I overcome the factory processing?
Fortunately, there's an easy cure. You can install a sound processor, which strips away the sound-shaping limitations enforced by your factory stereo and sends a clean signal to your external amplifiers. The amps send the signal to your speakers and subs. Your reward will be resonant lows, sparkling highs, and a realistic sense of space and depth.
Are these sound processors complicated to install?
Installation generally isn't too difficult — these processors connect to your stereo using your vehicle's speaker wires, and then to your amps and subs. You'll be able to keep the look and controls of your factory stereo, but expand your system for serious sound.

- A sound processor connects to your factory stereo through the stereo's speaker wires.
- The processor removes the factory sound-shaping, so the signal is clean.
- The signal is sent to your external amplifier(s). The amps power your front and rear speakers, and subwoofers.
Choosing the right sound processor
We carry a handfull of different factory sound processors, each with slightly different capabilities. Generally speaking, they range from "easy to use" to "seriously intense". Here are some examples:

JL Audio FiX 82 sound processor
Processors like the JL Audio FiX™ only require you to connect them to your factory stereo and aftermarket amplifier, then they do all the sound shaping for you. No hassles or tweaking needed — easy in, easy out.

Audio Control LC6i sound processor
For a more traditional approach, check out AudioControl's line of factory sound processors. They clean up the sound and give you manual control of the output for your amps. They're a particularly good choice if you have a premium factory stereo system. They can convert the amplified signal from premium factory systems so you can add your own amps and subs. AudioControl's line drivers can send a clean, 9.5-volt signal to an aftermarket amp, giving you clean sound. All their processors have highly customizable configurations.

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 signal processor
At the other end of the spectrum are processors like the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3. Once you've installed it in your system, run a USB cable to your laptop and and you can not only flatten the factory stereo's processing, but you can also use a 31-band equalizer to adjust the sound to your heart's content. The 3Sixty.3 is a hardcore sound-shaping toolbox for the serious sound tweaker.

From your laptop, the 3Sixty.3 lets you control every aspect of your sound system.
Keep the look, love the sound
For some car owners, radio replacement isn't a thing they can't do; it's a thing they don't want to do. And that's okay. With a sound processor, you don't have to put up with a lousy stereo just because you genuinely like the look of your car's interior or some of the infotainment functions. If you've tired of settling, give us a call and let us help you find a sound processor that's right for you and your car.
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Mr Innovator from Oregon
Posted on 6/16/2015Highly considering an Aftermarket HU for my 2014 Toyota Tundra however my door lock,chimes etc maintenance, Navigation & personal reminders are all integrated into factory HU. Crutchfeild has several aftermarket HU choices BUT the dilemma is if I go that route how much of the those so called minor conveniences from the factory am I willing to lose, for example on my model if I forget to close the sunroof and exit the vehicle I get an immediate chime to remind me that it's left open. A minor loss if it can't be integrated into a aftermarket HU, but it's a major loss if it happens to rain & you forgot because of the former factory reminder. I think Crutchfeild will eventually do this but they or someone should do a item by item cost benefit analysis of retaining factory HU vrs aftermarket HU, not your run of the mill audio specs. As any respectable audiophile knows the factory DSP's is so choked down & unalterable that it's almost worthless to modify with add on's. I assume a aftermarket FSP would solve most of these issues but a real hard core test would be how much of a sound stage do you get vrs dumping the entire manufacturers system & getting a proven aftermarket HU with programable sound stage. I'd Like to hear from any Tundra owners that have done ONLY an FSP add on to factory & someone that went 100% aftermarket then have both list pro's & cons of their install & soundstage.
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Pavol from Prague
Posted on 6/24/2015Hi there, Considering to upgrade speakers on my VW Golf Mk7 with 2-way FOCAL Performance Expert PS 165F (both in front and rear doors). In addition the doors will be filled with three layers of noise blocking and anti vibration material (ZN FINISH and STP GOLD). I am concerned with the output of the stock Composition Media stereo (4x20w). Could you please give me an advice if the stereo's output will be appropriate in comparison with the speakers' output? Shall I rather go for lower Focal series as the factory stereo will not be able to utilize full 165F's potential? Or shall I rather buy aftermarket DSP/amp in order to match the speakers' level? My goal is just to have crispier sound at normal level of sound volume hence I believe that don't need high power output. I prefer to listen liquid drum and bass and house music. Many thanks and regards, Pavol
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Jazzy Blue from PHILADELPHIA
Posted on 7/5/2015I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 w Beats audio...I love the sound at high volume but need a way to improve sound at lower volume. Will sound processor fix this problem and increase factory bass?
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ct from San Diego
Posted on 10/28/2015I have a Pioneer deh-80prs hu. Would it benefit if run through a digital sound processor?
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David from Nottingham
Posted on 11/7/2015I'm looking to do a boot build in my Mk4 golf r32, and keeping the standard stereo. Just stumbled across these and thinking they could be a very good idea to get the most out of my (future) system. Any recommendations? (complete novice at this)
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Brent from Petawawa
Posted on 1/9/2016I got a 2015 kia forte sx model so far with factory HU, kicker cs 6.5 componts up front, 6x9 alpine spr69 rear+ pdxf4 and two 10" alpine type r + mrx MRX-M110 and soon to replace the factory with INE-W960 is it worth investing in to a sound processor two ?
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David Strum from Hopewell
Posted on 4/5/2016Hello. I have a 2013 Honda Accord Sport. Factory 180w stereo. I installed Polk Audio Db6501 components in the doors, factory rear speakers, and I had a Pioneer GM D8601 amp powering 2 10" JL Audio W3s installed. I was thinking of adding a DSP and possibly an amp to power the Polk's. What would be a good DSP option? Also, when I turn my ignition off, a tone cones through my subs like a single bump. Will a DSP remediate this issue? Thanks in advance.
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Chris Stevenson from Frisco
Posted on 4/5/2016I have a 2011 Yukon Denali with Bose premium system. I have upgraded and bypassed the Bose amp using Audiocontrol L6ci LOC Currently running kicker ix1000.5,( about to upgrade to Arc Audio 1200.6 amp ) Would something like an Audison Bit One or BIt Ten, or other like brand be an upgrade over the Audiocontrol L6ci and help better the SQ of my system and function as a LOC? Speakers in my system listed below- open to upgrades: 6.5" dsk hertz components in front, 6.5" RF Punch 3-ways in rear JL 12" 3v3 4ohm sub in rear- (sub is in small ( built to spec) sealed box. )
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Lee
Posted on 4/23/2016I have a 2015 Ford Edge Sport with premium sony sound. I installed sub and a amp and used a stinger LOC on the factory sub, when i start the car the subs hum 4 or 5 times with the door closed but with the door open it doesnt do it. I also have motor noise coming from the subs. Ive got a good short ground, cant figure it out please help!
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Gregory from Inkster
Posted on 5/6/2016I have a 2007 Chrysler aspen with navigation system, rear dvd player, all the bells and whistles controlled by the radio. I have a nagging volume limiter that constantly kills my sound when I'm driving. It never stays up at a satisfactory level unless its nighttime. Will a sound processor help me sir. I have an alpine factory system in my truck. It seems like every radio tech here in Michigan seems to think that there is nothing I can do about it unless I swap out the entire system compromising all my controls. I cannot do that, will you please help me with some honest advice. I would greatly appreciate it. The sound processor thing seems logical. I wander why no one has advised me to try that.
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Steve from Chandler, AZ
Posted on 5/8/2016I have a 2016 Tacoma double cab with the JBL system. I think it sounds muddy and bass heavy. It does have a sub and a reasonably powerful amp. I'd like to clean up the factory signal and increase the amount of equalization. Can I run some type of DSP or FSP that would give me a good signal but still allow me to use the factory amp / speakers? Then I could decide what speakers need to be replaced, if any, or what I need to add for amps. Or are there any amplified DSP's?
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Mike Offre from Boston
Posted on 5/11/2016Hello. I currently have a 1999 Lexus ES300 with the Pioneer factory stereo/amp/speaker/tweeter/sub setup. I plan to switch the stereo/amp to the Nakamichi ones and replace the OEM speaker/tweeter/sub with a Polk Audio set. I purpose want to keep the OEM head unit for the tape/cd to explain why I'm going that route. I'm wondering how I can incorporate a factory sound processor into that mix to add "oomph" to the Nakamichi stereo/amp?
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Jay from Los Angeles
Posted on 5/20/2016I have a 2006 Lexus IS250. I only have a 3 band EQ (Bass Mid Treble). I have a 500W kicker mono amp with 2 Dual 12 inch subs. Do you think a processor will give me deeper clean bass to my subs for them to hit harder with my factory stereo or should I go along with a in trunk EQ for stronger deeper harder hitting bass?
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Dave from Dayton
Posted on 5/31/2016I have a 2015 Honda Accord Sedan, 7-speaker system. I'd like to make audio system changes in steps. The first step I'd like to take is to add a DSP and disable the ANC. I'm hoping that this will make an improvement on it's own, but am concerned about the OEM amp un-doing some of the good that the DSP does to the signal. Will I need to replace the OEM 5-channel amp to see the benefit ?
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Brentton from Cheyenne
Posted on 6/14/2016Outside of the Rainbow DSP 1.8, are there and DSP options controllable and tunable directly from and iPad? Or Mac?
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Jim from San Diego
Posted on 6/24/2016I drive a 2016 Honda Civic EX with a total of 8 factory speakers (4-6.5" and 4-tweeters). Sounds like a big bag of trash. In order to keep the HU and it's functions, I'm thinking of replacing the speakers (except for the rear tweets, probably just disconnect those) and adding the Alpine F300 to power them. I'm fairly certain that the HU is still going to hamper my sound upon completion. Do you agree and if so, which FSP would you recommend for me?
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Mohamed from Tehran
Posted on 9/5/2016Hi, Do i need any DSP while i have Sony RSX-GS9 Headunit? Not for controlling the EQ or HPF or ... . Im thinking about the harmonic distortion and playing High Res. music files while im connecting my Headunit to my BRAX GRAPHIC GX2400 and BRAX 3 way Component Speakers with no phase Plug. And here is my biggest question, does these DSPies convert any low quality 16bit music files to 24bit or higher?
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Luke Ponte from Wasilla
Posted on 9/8/2016Hello, I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500, has the 8" display, no Bose system. I have added Rockford Fosgate 10" subwoofer (T1S1-10), Rockford Fosgate amplifier (T500 - 1bdCP) In all four doors (T1650), and four PM100X1. What would be a good matching processor for this setup. Thank you
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Michael from Houston
Posted on 11/19/2016I have a Kenwood Excelon DPX59BT in a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The HU is currently feeding a Kenwood Excelon X801.5 for a set of Focal Integration ISS 690's in the front and a set of Focal Integration ISC 165 for rearfill. Also, I have a set of JL Audio 8W1v3-4's in a custom sealed enclosure for the lows. Will I benefit using the Kenwood Front Row DSP?
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BDWW from Milwaukee
Posted on 12/2/2016Seeking the best sound processor for a 2005 Jaguar XJ8 L...Thanks!
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Brian McCaffrey from Bethel, CT
Posted on 1/19/2017Hey Buck. I have a 2013 Nissan Rogue with the "premium" sound system. The sound lacks any punch and everything seems to come out of the speaker in the center dash. Not happy with the imaging at all. I was very upset to learn that with this system trading out amps and/or speakers can be very problematic. I have now decided that I would like to get a new amp(s), component front speakers, rear speakers and a new powered subwoofer. So everything but the head unit. My question is simply this, can I expect to get high quality sound with the use of some sort of sound processor to go along with everything else I am getting or will it be hit or miss?? And if yes, what should I get? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Bill from Florida
Posted on 2/2/2017I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata Sport and am keeping the stock HU (mine plays .flac files-thank you Hyundai!) and am thinking of using an AudioControl DQ-61, with either a Pioneer PDX-V9 amp or JL Audio RD900/5 amp. I own Focal ISS-165 components (tweeters will go in stock location, dash firing at windshield) and mid-woofers in the doors, knee level; Focal ISC coax in rear stock locations and a JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 Subwoofer. 1) Since the mids and tweets are not near each other as is recommended, is there anything I can do with the DQ-61 or another processor, to digitally close the gap between the mids and tweets? 2) The processor and either amp accommodated a remote knob - do I need both or just one - which one? 3) I am concerned about the AccuBASS circuitry of the DQ-61 sounding artificial. Is that possible? I appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks!
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Daniel Winebarger from Hoschton
Posted on 4/2/2017I have a general question about these DSP's... Once a factory stereo limits or cuts out certain frequencies, how are those frequencies restored, and are they actually fully restored? It seems to me that once they are limited and the sound is sent out in edited form they would be gone and lost for good. Can you further explain? I'm interested in upgrading my 2017 Honda CR-V in this manner, but I truely want full-range original sound and to make sure that is what I'd be getting with this purchase. Also specific product recommendations would be welcomed. I'll be running the signal from my factory touchscreen stereo, through the DSP, into an Infinity Kappa5 amplifier, pushing 4- Infinity Kappa 6.5's and 2- 10" Kicker CVT's. Thanks in advance
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Nator from PGH
Posted on 6/4/2017In a 2014 Taurus, the amplifier, steering wheel controls, voice feedback, etc. is contained in one unit in the trunk. So would I take the speaker outputs after this unit into a DSP, then to an amplifier? Thanks
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T.D.
Posted on 8/3/2017I have a 2013 Subaru BRZ Ltd. There's a rattle in the driver's side door and, in addition to applying Dynamat, the stereo shop recommended installing a subwoofer to lighten the stress on the front speakers. I was intrigued by this article and would like to get your recommendations for getting the best bang for my buck while keeping the head unit. Would a FSP help, and would I need to replace the factory speakers if I add a subwoofer?
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Rich from NY
Posted on 8/27/2017I have a stock radio. I took signal from a rear speaker and sent it to an AudioControl LC2i for my remote turn on for an amp/sub-woofer set up. My problem is my factory radio heavily equalizes the signal(s) going to all speakers including the one i tapped for my remote turn. What can i use to get a clean signal from that rear speaker? Name of some brands/model? Also does the ACLC2i achieve this? In other words, I would like to kill the EQ or get clean/flat unequalized signal from my stock speaker to send to my ACLC2i > Amp > Subwoofer.
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Tim gotto from Fairview heights
Posted on 10/25/2017I have a 2015 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 10 speakers I replace the door speakers with JL Audio 6 by nines I believe the two in the ceiling with Infinity Kappa and the front dash with infinity kappas. I use the factory amp for the kappas but the JL Audio I had a Kenwood Exelon put in in the issue is there they said I needed a sound processor to make them sound right. I'm not looking for top of the line but I definitely want something that in time maybe would be expandable. But yet something that has Crisp sound. Seems like I have a little bit issue with Bluetooth sometime not being loud enough to hear people. Would the JL audio sound processor be the easiest way to go yet have the quality that I'm looking for? Also the 8 inch sub in the rear is there a way to replace it with the factory amp that I can get some quality sound out of a speaker just putting in there some type of JL Audio or something of same quality? I have two 10-inch Subs with another amp but I was hoping maybe there was something to put in and replace that 8-inch some sub to make it sound good without going through the trouble of adding the subs I have now? Is there an amp that would work best to put in for the speakers in the dash and the speakers in the ceiling? Or what do you recommend so that they can keep up the power with the door speakers? Also is there a way to add a different 8 inch sub in the amp for the dash speakers in the ceiling speakers all in one so that I don't have to put in 3 amps.?
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Skip gist from Williamsville ny
Posted on 11/26/2017Dear crutchfield, your advice is second to none. Iam a big fan & follower of you on social media and I have used your wisdom numerous times in setting up my home & auto system. Iam about to in the very near future upgrade my home theater system and I will need information on preamp and or audio recording . You guys always go the extra yard of explaining systems and then tell what systems are bad or not..KEEP UP THE FANTASTIC WORK
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Dodgersfeign from California
Posted on 2/15/2018I have a 2017 chevy Silverado crew cab and and the following I'm going to install in very near future, Infinity kappa 693.11I 6x9's and kappa 62.11I 6 1/2's being pushed by a Kappa K4, 2 Sundown audio 10's being pushed by a fosgate 1200 prime... I'm thinking I'm going to have a solid setup but, My question is what other "good" options do I have other than a JL audio Fix 86? Is the $400 for the processor really needed?
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