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Noise suppression guide

Diagnosing and treating noise problems in your car audio system

Noise Suppression Guide

This guide will help you diagnose and treat problems with extraneous noise in your car audio system.

Dealing with noise

You've installed a new receiver or amplifier in your car, and now you have a noise problem. What can you do? The trick is to determine what the source of the noise is. Noise can be introduced into your system from a number of sources. This is especially true if you have an amplifier. The type of noise you're hearing can help determine the cause.

Read over this article for some hints and explanations of what can cause noise in your system. Use it as a checklist, eliminating possibilities until you find the culprit. You can also use this diagnostic flowchart as a guide to walk you through the troubleshooting process.

And don’t forget – if you purchased your gear from Crutchfield, or purchased tech support separately, don't hesitate to call on our tech support team (have your Crutchfield invoice handy).

Noise and your new receiver

If you’ve just installed a new receiver, here are two quick and easy starting points:

Receiver with antenna lead, power, and ground

Noise in your receiver is often due to a poor ground wire connection or a poorly grounded antenna.


Is your receiver securely grounded?

Improper ground is one of the biggest causes for introducing noise into your audio system. Is the ground wire located near a noise source (like a heater, air conditioner, or computer)? Is the ground wire actually connected to the vehicle's ground? Since the antenna lead can act as a ground (thereby enabling a new receiver to operate without its ground wire properly connected), the antenna lead is frequently the source of noise problems.

Antenna noise

Check to see if you're getting noise on all sources — CD, auxiliary/USB, AM, and FM
If the noise is present only on the radio, then it's most likely coming through your antenna lead.

Unplug the antenna. If the noise goes away, try an antenna noise suppressor (like American International's AS100). This filter plugs in-line between your receiver and your antenna, breaking the ground path between them, thus preventing noise from entering your system.

Antenna filter

An antenna filter, installed between the vehicle's antenna and the receiver, can minimize noise entering your system from a poorly grounded antenna.


Radiated noise

If the noise isn’t coming in through the antenna, try pulling the receiver from the dash while a CD is playing. If the noise goes away, it's being radiated into your system due to the receiver's proximity to a noise producer (like a heater motor or car computer). This is often referred to as “sideway noise.”

If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter can be installed on the accessory's power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car computer (or other motor-less accessory) is causing the problem, move your receiver's wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise.

Try using magnetic shielding foil (also called Mu-metal) to shield the back of the receiver or wrap the wire or component that's radiating the noise into your system.

Engine noise

Noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver is called engine noise (sometimes referred to as “backway noise”). If engine noise is your culprit, you may hear a whining or clicking sound. Its pitch will usually vary with engine speed.

If this is the case, you can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the alternator to minimize the problem. You can also install a noise filter on the receiver's power lead to cut down on signal pollution (American International's S15A (15-amp, 250-watt) or S25A (25-amp, 350-watt) filters, for example). Most often, however, backway noise comes from a loose or intermittent ground connection. See the section below about noise in the electrical system.

Alternator noise filter

An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise that modulates according to engine RPMs.


Noise and your new amplifier

An amplifier can introduce noise into your system through a bad ground or through a poor mounting. Rubber grommets or feet can help isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the vehicle, a potential source of noise. If all else fails, install a noise suppressor. The tricky part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try some of the simple tests.

Amplifier connections

Where is the amp mounted?

Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer? If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables. If you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle's chassis. Any contact between your amp's metal casing and your vehicle's body could cause noise problems.

Check your ground wire

Is it securely attached to the vehicle's chassis with a good contact to clean metal? Your ground wire should ideally be 18" long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise problems. Improper grounding causes most system noise problems.

Check your gain structure

If you have an external amplifier in your system, the first thing to do is to quiet any system noise, which sounds like a constant, low hiss. First, check for system noise with the engine off. Insert a CD and put your CD player on pause. Listen to the system with the volume way down, then way up. Put on music. If you hear hiss in either instance, reduce the gain on your amplifier.

Pass more signal from the receiver to the amp by leaving the receiver's volume higher before you set the amp's gain. Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as possible. A tiny bit of hiss is okay — you won't hear it while driving.

Noise in the patch cables

Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components. To test this, detach the cables from your amp. Insert one side (left or right) of a spare patch cable into the amp's left and right input jacks (see illustration below). Turn on your system and engine.

RCA noise

If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely picking it up. Try re-routing them. Separate them from your power cable by at least 18 inches. You could try a better brand of patch cables. The inexpensive RCA cables many people use to connect their components don't have the insulation or conductivity necessary to deflect noise in a metallic, highly conductive automobile.

How much noise your cable receives depends largely on the size of its “loop area;” the larger the loop area, the more vulnerable your cable is to induced interference. A cable's loop area is equal to the distance between its center conductor and outer shield times the length of one complete twist in a twisted pair configuration, or the entire length of the cable in a coaxial type. Consider trading your old cable for one with a twisted pair design. You'll get a smaller loop area and less noise.

Twisted pair patch cables

Patch cables with a "twisted pair" design help reject noise


As a last resort, a ground loop isolator (like PAC's SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and your amp to minimize this problem.

Noise picked up by the power or ground cables

We discussed ground cables above, because that’s the cause of noise more often than not. If the noise wasn’t due to a poor ground or through the stereo’s antenna cable, it may be coming in through the amplifier's main power cable. Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you might try thicker cable.

Ground loop isolator

If you cannot find the faulty ground in your multi-amp system, a ground loop isolator can help minimize the problem.

Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire. If you are unable to locate the cause, a ground loop isolator (like PAC's SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver's preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem.

Noise in speaker wiring

Noise can also come in through the speaker wires. To test them, turn the system off and disconnect the speaker wires from the amps. Now start the car. If the noise is still there, then it's being radiated into the speaker wires. Reposition them, or, as a last resort, shield them by wrapping them with Mu-metal foil.

Noise from electrical system

If you've tried all of the noise-fighting tips above and you still hear the noise, the problem might be with your vehicle. You might simply need to fill your battery with fluid. If that doesn't help, have a mechanic check your alternator and battery.

If your car is older and hasn't been tuned up recently, you may have ignition noise. It's a ticking noise that varies in speed as you accelerate. You may need a tune-up involving resistor-type spark plugs, shielded carbon-core spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil.

If the noise doesn't disappear, then your ignition system may not be grounded well enough and is broadcasting ticks to other items such as your air cleaner, hood, exhaust system, etc. Chances are, grounding one of the under-hood components will eliminate the noise. With your sound system on and the car running, try grounding each of these different components of the car. It's possible that grounding one of your car's components will eliminate the noise. If so, make the ground permanent with a braided ground strap.

A very effective fix for electrical system noise is called "The Big Three" upgrade. This is where your vehicle's battery charging wire and chassis ground wires are augmented by adding large gauge wires (1/0- or 4-ga.) to those connecting the alternator to the battery's positive pole, the battery's negative pole to the chassis, and the chassis to the engine block. This establishes better current flow and more consistent voltage, which improves your system's signal to noise ratio. It also ensures against loose or restrictive ground connections, which, as said before, are common sources of noise. Read our article about The Big Three for more information.

Noise and your nervous system

Noise problems can be very frustrating, especially when you can't wait to hear your new equipment. It helps to remember that you've just placed a very sophisticated piece of electronic gear (a new receiver or amplifier) in the middle of an extremely complex system — your vehicle's electrical wiring. Noise is just nature's way of telling you that something's out of whack. Just run down the list, eliminating possible noise sources until you find the problem.

Crutchfield Tech Support

If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. The toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support — 90 days-worth for only $30.

  • joshua lynch from Corpus Christi

    Posted on 10/25/2018

    hello, im not really to sure if anyone checks these comments anymore, but i need some help. I bought a alpine mrv-f300 from Crutchfield 2 months ago and i have been trying to get this hiss noise to go away, it is present all the time even when i disconnect the rca's from the receiver although the noise is not super loud the hiss can not be heard a foot from the speaker but its still there and it bothering me also my drivers side front component set mid makes a whining noise when pressing the accelerator but its only the front driver side speaker(the power wire runs behind the component set in kick panels.). The hiss comes from all the speaker's tweeters even when the car is turned to the on position it does not have to be started. Im not sure if it maters but i have a JL vxi 6001i right next to the mrv-300 and the place where both are grounded is about a foot away. My plan is to use JL vxi preout to run to the mrv-300 so i can get the added benefits of the amps dsp. When i connect the mrv300 from the vxi preouts(the vxi amp only has 2 preouts so i have to use a y connecter to connect the 2 channels to the 4 channel amp.) which is connected to the sub out on my jvc digital media reciver the hiss and alternator whine from front drivers side speak is still present so im not sure if i should connect it that way with the noise, although it does the same thing connected though the vxi preouts or from the preouts on the head unit. The hiss noise goes up and down with the gain.

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield on 10/25/2018
    Joshua, The hiss and whining you describe usually comes from a loose ground or power connection. Check and secure all wiring, even the vehicle's battery connections. Make sure the ground connections are free of paint, providing metal-to-metal contact with the car chassis.
  • Joel from Hacienda heights

    Posted on 7/19/2018

    I recently bought from you a jl audio w3 stealth box for a 2017 Silverado and when I turn gears I hear a long booooooooom. This is only an issue when the car is running or I sped up. Can you give me an idea why this is happening if this is a brand new system?

    Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield on 7/19/2018
    Joel, Usually, noise that tracks a vehicle's engine RPM is caused by a loose ground or power connection. Seeing as you bought your sub from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice.
  • Paul from Southampton

    Posted on 5/31/2018

    Really helpful info sorted my new install in no time thanks to your sound advice ! Amazing knowledge ! Thanks a bunch man

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/27/2018

    George, If you swapped power leads and the problem switched over as well, you have a problem with your power wiring. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • George cochran from Eldon

    Posted on 4/27/2018

    I have 2 skar rp1500d amps hooked up to 2 sundowndown x12 v2. Each amp is running at 1 ohm. I have 0 gauge for grounds and power cables coming from distribution blocks and grounded under seat belt bolt with paint Being removed to show bare metal. All dials are set exactly the same on each amp but on songs above certain hertz (mainly 45) one sub will make a popping sound. I switched the pos/neg from one amp to the other amp and then it makes the other subwoofer pop. I thought it was the amp so I sent it in but it was good. My last resort is to ground each amp separately but have read using a distribution block is not a issue. Car is a 2014 dodge dart rallye with stock alpine system.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/4/2018

    Alex, Most of the time, noise that changes with acceleration stems from a loose ground or power connection somewhere. It could be anywhere. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • alex from perth amboy nj

    Posted on 4/1/2018

    hi buck, I'm had been trying to get rid of my whining noise. All my ground are good I did the big three and add some extra ground to the alternator, chassis and engine block. I put a radio noise suppressor in line to my head unit but still doesn't sound when I have my car standing is just when I speed up my car...please help me out

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/21/2018

    Anthony, Can't troubleshoot a system without knowing what gear is involved nor how they're wired together.

  • Anthony from Hattiesburg

    Posted on 3/14/2018

    I have a 2016 Camaro. I have a loud "hum" from the subs when the gain is high and the car is in park and while driving. The shop I took it too said initially "bad ground" so I took it back and still came out with the same problem. Their response was "because i have a bose system, that it picks up background noise and converts that noise into a signal that it sends back through the system and thats what I hear in my subs and that I they need to disconnect the wire that causes that" not that i dont trust them but I need to hear a second opinion

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/7/2018

    LD, Noise that changes with the engine RPM is usually the result of a loose ground or power cable somewhere in the system. Buzzing heard while the receiver is off and the window down is probably due to the window vibrating inside the door, and not from anything electrical.

  • Martin from Jacksonville

    Posted on 2/4/2018

    I have a white noise when you turn the radio. Is this a radio or speaker problem? [link to a Youtube video]

  • LD from chattanooga

    Posted on 2/3/2018

    Hi I have an issue with noise coming through my speakers. I have a 96 Tahoe 4wd with power door locks and power windows. I have an alpine cde-148bt head unit with Jl Audio C3-650 component speakers in the doors. There are no additional components added to the radio. The noise is present with the vehicle turned to run without starting, turned to acc, and with vehicle running. The noise is also present in all modes on the radio. It increases with driving based on vehicle speed. The noise goes completely away with the head unit switched off. But with the vehicle running, the radio off, and the window rolled completely down, there is a buzzing present in the door speaker. Roll the window up with the radio still off and no noise is present. Would this be a bad ground issue to the radio? I plan on pulling the radio and running a new ground. But why would the speaker buzz with the window down and the radio off?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/31/2018

    Nick, Theoretically, all your gear should turn off at the same time, if they all share the same remote turn-on signal. It sounds like your EQ is making a noise when it shuts off that your amplifier amplifies as it slowly powers down. Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to keep power to the EQ while the amp turns off. Maybe you're right and another brand EQ will work better for you.

  • Nick from Brandon, FL

    Posted on 1/30/2018

    I have a pretty common issue with a "pop" coming from the speakers when shutting off the vehicle. I have diagnosed it down to the in dash American Bass AB7BV EQ shutting off before the Polk PA D5000.5 Amp. I'm running a JL CP108LG-W3v3, with Kicker and Polk components in the doors and a Sony XAV-68BT deck. All grounds and RCA's good. It only started after the addition of the EQ. The EQ is something I am experimenting with, but I like the sound improvement and ease of adjustment for different kinds of music. I have found forums that say the only thing you can do is add a shut off delay circuit on the remote lead going to the EQ. Is there a reputable product I can buy to serve that purpose, or can you recommend a different EQ that already has that feature built in?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/29/2018

    William, Bluetooth connections through aftermarket receivers can be tricky. Fortunately, you bought your receiver at Crutchfield, which means you have free Tech Support for the life of your gear. Just call 1-800-955-9091 for help

  • William Dunlap from Costa Mesa, CA

    Posted on 1/28/2018

    I recently purchased a KDC-BT372U Kenwood Bluetooth receiver/cd player from Crutchfield for my 2005 Chevy Astro. The installation went smoothly and the unit works wonderfully with one exception. When I use my Apple iPhone 8 in the hands free mode through the receiver there's a tremendous amount of static on the receiving end. I don't hear it, but whoever receives the call can barely hear what I say. When I use just a standard Bluetooth earphone while in the car to make the call it's as clear as a bell. It's only when it's using the Kenwoods Bluetooth phone setup. No static in the speakers at all. The static/noise only occurs when the engine is running. Any suggestions would be greatly be appreciated!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/17/2017

    Max, The source of the noise you describe usually turns out to be a loose ground or power wire. You should check every connection and make sure everything's tight and conducting properly. You may have to take your vehicle to a car stereo shop for troubleshooting and repair.

  • Max Noriega from Gualala

    Posted on 11/16/2017

    1992 ford explorer eddie bauer edition 4dr 4x4 I have the audible whine in my speakers when i accelerate and get the thump / pop when i change stations and the sound is still there when using a SD or usb input. It sounds like its mostly coming from the rear door speakers. Ill be honest i dont know a whole lot about wiring and stereo systems so after reading tons of forums i just ordered a ground loop isolator with the red n white audio plugs. After pulling off the entire side inner panel and taking off thr seat belt bolt i get to the factory amp and there is no way to connect using the audio plugs. The amp has pun style plastic connectors on top and bottom. Anybody know how i can make this work??

  • Arturo Sanchez from Dublin

    Posted on 11/13/2017

    I have 3 JL Audio 12W1v2-4 in a non ported box on a 2 channel 2000 watt planet audio amp running 4 gauge wire also have a Scosche 500K Micro -Farad Capacitor. As soon as my kenwooddnx690hd head unit powers up There is constant thudding coming from the subs i wanna describe it like a surge and it only goes away when I have my headunit at max and my phone I play my music on has to be on max as well. While it's surging everylight in my car dims with every thud even. Ground is secure with metal to metal contact to the frame of my 02 4runner, also every time it "beats" it makes my alternator belt squeel like my amp is how i would say pulling to much fire through it or something, Any ideas? I also get the noise whenever i acceleration, My unit is suppose to be Bluetooth but for some reason I can't ever connect straight to it to i hooked the aux to the back of the receiver and i use this aux-to-bluetooth device to make it hands free but I only get the noise if I have it hooked to the cars power outlets to charge. Wiring problem or is the à component issue like a need bigger wire or a better amp? Thanxxs in advance.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/21/2017

    Timothy, Alternator noise usually occurs when a ground or power wire is loose or broken. Your handmade connections are certainly suspects. As is the mouse-chewed wire. If you unplug any of them and the noise goes away, you'll have found the problem, and will probably need to replace that connector.

  • Timothy from Philippi,west virginia

    Posted on 9/20/2017

    Hi.would "homemade" rcas create the horrible alt.noise.Im using replacable male rca ends u can screw new wires too.And also would a mouse chewed antena wire contribute.thank u in advance.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/11/2017

    Aaron, When you disconnected the RCAs from your receiver and heard no noise, you significantly narrowed the search for the source of the noise. Check out How to diagnose and suppress noise and its diagnostic flowchart to pin it down all the way so you can fix it. Nine times out of ten it turns out to be a loose ground connection for the receiver.

  • Aaron Gaudet from Buxton

    Posted on 9/10/2017

    Hi I've installed a new jl audio 4ch amp an now I have a constant hum from my speakers I've gone through your log on things to do to try an solve noise. When I disconnect the rca cable from the hu or amp sound is gone if I disconnect from just hu it is gone but if your finger touches the end of the rca the same noise is comes back an the noise can't be heard once volume is turned up just with it all the way down

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/7/2017

    Coleman, It sounds like you have a classic case of a ground loop, when a system's power circuit has more than one path to ground. Most often this is the result of a loose or otherwise inadequate ground or power connection for the amplifier. Sometimes a cracked fuse will do the same. Or the amplifier's case touching the car's metal body. Unplug all the RCAs from the amp to troubleshoot and fix the power wiring until the noise goes away. If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Coleman Little from Mobile

    Posted on 9/7/2017

    Hello, I have engine noise that is directly related to my acceleration, the faster I go the louder it is. I've only looked at it a few times, and my only noticeable note is the "whine" is louder and louder as I unplug the RCA's on my amp one by one. Do you happen to know where the "whine" is generating from and how I can fix it?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/10/2017

    Julia, I suggest you take your car back to the car audio shop that did the installation, and show them the issue, so they can set things right.

  • Julia from Colchester Essex uk

    Posted on 8/9/2017

    I have an Audi A3 convertible. When my iPod was in the dock I got poor radio reception on a couple of stations, when iPod is removed it's fine. I've just had a new pioneer AVH- 8700 fitted which has iplay so the iPod docking station was removed and radio was fine. I had a thinkware front dash camera fitted yesterday and now the reception is poor and crackly again on the same radio channels. So something's not right and causing the interference. Can you advise pretty please?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/29/2017

    Shiheed, If you do a web search for disabling the active noise cancellation system, you will find a few sites that show how it can be done.

  • Shiheed from Philadelphia

    Posted on 6/29/2017

    Hello. I'm having issues with my 2016 impala. I have my system hooked up the other day. I picked my car and it was fine. Shortly after my base speakers started to just give or issues. That base would just hit hard even with the music down. I was told from the shop that it's the active noise central giving a bad signal to my subs. The 4 door speakers work fine. The shop have no clue on how to disconnect the active noise control system. If you have any info on this it would be appreciated.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/19/2017

    Kate, If the unwanted noise is only playing out the front speakers, it's probably coming from the factory radio. But to make sure, disconnect the LOC and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then consider getting a better LOC.

  • Kate from Niagara

    Posted on 6/16/2017

    I recently installed a 10" Sub and amp in my car and used a LOC to run RCAs as I left the stock radio in. its a 2016 kia rio. On certain high volumes (over 20 generally) AND songs, I have static in my front speakers. Could it be a crappy LOC causing this issue? Not all songs cause this.... Not sure what to do here. All connections are good and the ground connection is clean. Followed the wiring diagram on the bottom of the amp.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/9/2017

    Connor, Noise like you describe is most often caused by a poor ground connection somewhere in the system. Your amps should be grounded to the same spot. Make sure every ground is tight, and paint-free with metal-to-metal contact.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/9/2017

    Joey, It sounds like your relays are radiating electromagnetic interference (EMI). This could be due to poor relay design or loose contacts and connections. If your relays are aftermarket installed, you might check all connections, especially the grounds, and tighten anything that's loose. For stock relays you might be able to shield them with foil covers. Unfortunately, this kind of noise gets picked up everywhere in a system and is difficult to eliminate.

  • Connor Hall from San Ramon

    Posted on 5/9/2017

    I've just installed a new 4-Channel amp in my truck. I was getting a whine/hiss noise coming through my speakers. I immediately went to Crutchfield to try and elimante this problem. I have ran my RCA's from the back of the head unit to my amp above the carpet, away from any power wires. This did not work, I have tried several different sets of RCA's and noise is still present. I have a Pioneer head unit, tried the old grounding trick on back of the Headunit RCA's to radio cage, this as well did not work. Moved headunit in and out of dash to see if noise is being introduced behind headunit in dash, noise was still present. This now makes me beilive that noise is being introduced due to a ground loop. My subwoofer amp and speaker amp are on a separate ground. My headunit is grounded to the chassis ground. I may wire my own ground for the headunit to the firewall/chassis. As well as checking and cleaning my amplifier ground to see if this will help Eliminate the noise. My question is, is it possible noise is being introduced into my speaker wires, ran off the 4-Channel amp, to the factory speaker wiring behind my head unit like you're post on wiring a 4-Channel amp using an EFX-9Wire. I have the speaker wires ran under my carpet, with the RCA's, away from any power wires.

  • Joey from Sandy Springs GA

    Posted on 5/7/2017

    Hey Buck, great article. Have you dealt with accessory relay pops? Amp alpine pdx-v9, headunit avic 8200nex. Anything that i trigger with a relay (headights, fog lights, windows)causes a speaker pop. thoughts?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/4/2017

    Antonio, It sounds like your repair caused another problem. Usually alternator whine is caused by a loose ground connection somewhere. Maybe something got loose inside the radio module while you were repairing it. I suggest you take your vehicle to a car audio technician and see if they can troubleshoot and repair your problem.

  • Antonio Pires from Lisbon - Portugal

    Posted on 5/4/2017

    Hi Buck After I repaired (I'm not an electronic tech) my radio module from my Range Rover with 2 TDA7492D amplifiers. After that the sound is great but I gained a whining noise that is more audible when the engine is running and specialy on the cd changer and on the cassete mode. I use the cassete mode to listen music from my smartphone. I just have tried all the things (except the alternator supressor). Better ground connection for the mule, resistors on the "in" of the amplifiers but, nothing solved that whining. This whining noise doesn't exist before the repair. What you could sugest or advise for me to do? Best regards Antonio Pires (Portugal)

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/24/2017

    Greg, It sure sounds like something's wrong with your receiver. You know you have lifetime tech support? Just give Crutchfield Tech Support a call for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. Click on this link for more details.

  • Greg from Ogden

    Posted on 4/23/2017

    Great article. I have an interesting problem. I bought an Axxera head unit from you guys a while back, and when I initially set it up I've always had a little bit of noise, nothing major, and I've lived with it. Now recently, about a year or so later, I can listen for differing amounts of time (sometimes 10 minutes, sometimes 20, sometimes 40) and then all of a sudden I start getting a lot of noise in the system. So much to the point you can barely hear the music. The sound levels get all out of wack. Sometimes the highs disappear and I can only hear the lows... Is this a giveaway to a particular part in the system? I figured I would check the amp grounding first since it is easiest to get to and it seems to be grounded fine. My head unit is hooked to a wiring harness, so I doubt that ground would be an issue... Thanks, Greg

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/20/2017

    Tobias, The symptoms you describe usually result from a loose or dirty ground or power wire connection. Make sure all your wiring is tight and making metal-to-metal contact with no interference.

  • Tobias from America

    Posted on 3/18/2017

    hey there ive got intereference in my car audio, it is not always present but when it is it is a loud whirring that can change in pitch when i change gears (manual car). i thought the problem was an old headunit so i bought a new one and replaced the RCA's going to the amplifier (aftermarket) as the fitting going into the back of the headunit was loose. this didn't fix the problem however. The volume of the interefence is also unaffected by the audio level, if the noise is present i can turn the audio to zero and the noise stays the same volume (horribly loud). Infact its so loud i can't even use my head-unit at all. The noise is present on all options (radio, aux in etc etc) Any help would be greatly appreciated as im at my wits end. Tobias.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/2/2017

    Johnny, It certainly sounds like you have a malfunctioning amp. If you bought it from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Johnny Fox from Cisco

    Posted on 2/1/2017

    I have four different amps in my system and I am having issues with noise. Im running 2 T2000bd and one of them seems to be the source of the noise. It's very bad with one of the amps hooked up but when I unhooked that amp the noise dropped drastically. Could the problem be in the amp itself? Also I run a ground distribution block with all four amps hooked to the distribution block and it's running 1/0 Stinger to the vehicle chassis. Im also running a 3 battery system consisting of 2 D3400 and a D3100. I need help please. The noise doesn't get louder as I drive faster but when I turn that one particular amp on I can hear a brief cracking noise in my subs before the whining starts. Any appreciated.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/20/2017

    Demar, Sounds like a defective receiver, to me. If you bought it from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting the issue. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Demar bryan

    Posted on 1/19/2017

    Hello I installed a pioneer avh-2800 in my 2011 Honda Accord with stock speakers and whenever I crank the volume up loud past 24 or mess with the fader and time alignment I get a static noise coming through the speakers. Turn off the features or turn the volume down and the static goes away. Static appears through Bluetooth and USB, tried fm but couldn't tell. Any help would be appreciated.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/20/2016

    James, Usually the noises you describe occur due to a bad antenna, power, or ground connection. I recommend you check over the receiver's wiring and ensure all connectors are tight and secure.

  • James from Paso Robles

    Posted on 12/20/2016

    Whine and crackling sound in my JVC KW-710 AM/FM Radio when running the power window in my 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 pickup. It seems to be louder the front door speakers and in areas with poor radio reception.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/14/2016

    Dolan, Most of the time when engine whine is audible it's because of a bad ground connection somewhere. I don't know how you've installed your aux input, whether it's to a factory radio or aftermarket receiver, but it sounds like you need to check over your wiring. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Dolan

    Posted on 11/14/2016

    Hey, i installed a aux cord in my 2004 Honda Accord through the stereo system inside the dash. There's this whining noise that occurs when the volume is higher than 50% and increases in pitch when I accelerate. I purchased a ground loop isolated but it seemed to not help the problem. A day ago a very quiet noise like a hum or whine is coming from the engine when the radio is off and a very loud whine when I switched the input to aux, although the radio and CD player are completely fine. There is no interference when the car engine is off and the stereo is on though. Thanks

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/3/2016

    Eon, Acoustic feedback, that loud ringing that occurs when a microphone picks up and rebroadcasts the sound of a speaker, would only be possible if your factory Bluetooth system is in hands-free calling mode and the volume's too high. Maybe there's something wrong with your receiver - the microphone should not be on unless you're making a hands-free call. Or maybe what you're hearing isn't feedback, but some other kind of problem, like a ground loop. I doubt that adding an expensive processor will solve the issue. Perhaps using our interactive flowchart will help you pin-point the problem better.

  • Eon from Boksburg

    Posted on 10/2/2016

    I just put in sound in my Toyota Hillux but i am getting feedback when every amp goes on but it is not an ground issue they say it is because of the stander radio that i have in the hillux has Bluetooth build in so they say it is giving me feedback but if doe not matter if i listen to music through Bluetooth, cd, stick or on the radio i still get the feed back and have get the ground all the connection antenna everything you mentioned but still feedback the guys and the sound shop says i need a 3sixty force gate prepossessing unit to get rid of the sound my Bluetooth radio id causing but it is very expensive can you please help me

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/12/2016

    Stephen, I've never heard of an issue like this before - it sounds like a malfunctioning amplifier, or an intermittent connection. If you bought your amp from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Stephen S from Bensalem

    Posted on 9/12/2016

    Hey Buck! So I have followed your extensive checklist to navigate and attempt to find out where excess noise is coming from my 2016 Volkswagon Jetta. However I am still getting some strange behavior out of my subwoofer. When the vehicle is parked everything sounds great, however every once in a while no matter what type of music I am listening to there is an excess buildup of volume coming from the subwoofer to the point it is shaking the car and it drowns out everything, five minutes later everything sounds perfect! I am using the stock head unit and running a non powered LOC from PAC. All grounds in the system as well as in the car have been tested and are reading between 0-.2ohms I am using an ignition switch wire as a trigger wire, my head unit is run off of a data system that has no trigger wire. The gain on the LOC is maxed out in order to get the voltage needed to fire the kicker amp and everything was Oscilloscope and voltage tested to check for proper tuning. My question is what else could be causing this issue and would it be wise to switch to a powered Line Output Converter like an audio control lc2i? The parts installed for the amplifier are the Kicker 4ga 2 channel installation kit, PAC line converter, Kicker 300cxa amplifier, and the subwoofer is a Kicker comp 12inch subwoofer.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/30/2016

    James, It sounds like the satellite radio antenna connection might be loose. Or your radio is malfunctioning. If you bought your receiver from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • James from henderson ky

    Posted on 8/29/2016

    I am getting noise thru my 2016 wrangler speakers only on sat radio every thing else is crystal clear. What can I do

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/8/2016

    Tom, You could try moving the radio's harness and antenna connection wires away from the fan motor and see if that reduces the static. The only true way I can think of to eliminate the static is to get a better fan motor that doesn't radiate radio frequency static. Assuming the original factory fan motor didn't do that, you could go to your vehicle's brand dealership and get an OEM fan motor that probably won't be noisy.

  • Tom Lynch from Parshall

    Posted on 8/6/2016

    I recently installed a new heater/AC blower fan motor and ever since I've had static interference on my AM radio stations. It increases with fan speed and is there when vehicle is running or just in "On" ignition position. Is there any type of filter that could help. Thanks.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/21/2016

    Jaeden, First, I'd find out precisely what the source of the static is. With the full-range speakers turned down, does the static play from the sub? Then you'd check the sub amp and its wiring. If it's being induced in the speakers by the subwoofer's vibrations, there may be a loose speaker wire somewhere. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Jaeden L Hudson

    Posted on 7/21/2016

    I am having a rather different noise issue than what is being described above. I have 3 amps. I am running all of my speaker wiring on the same side as my rca cables. (using factory harness for connecting speakers to amp as I can not re-wire the doors) The power wire is on the other side. I get a static noise from my speakers when my subwoofer plays. This is at lower volumes, but is noticeable. If I turn the subwoofer preout off on my head unit the noise goes away. What could be causing this?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/15/2016

    Rache, I suggest you check out our noise diagnostic flow chart. Going through it step-by-step should give you the source of your noise and tips on how to eliminate it. If you bought your receiver from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Rache from Livermore ca

    Posted on 7/15/2016

    Hi Buck, I installed a AVIC 8100NEX into my Lexus LX470 SUV. There is noise coming from FL speaker which is constant white noise. It onl;y comes when the key is in ON position. No issues when the key is in ACC position and I have very clean sound. Any thoughts? Thank you.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/23/2016

    Derek, If you bought any of your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Derek from Conway Pa

    Posted on 5/22/2016

    I had a dual radio running with 2 alpine type E 800w amp an 5 kickers mids/highs worked fine then radio broke//replaced with Jvc HU now every time I turn it up loud the whole system cuts out but when I turned the bass down it stops cutting out or one volume notch helps sometimes I've tryd every radio out there all the same. only one that works good are dual radios. Any ideas for help would be great threw email thank you!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/19/2016

    Mark, It does sound like the aux input jack on your receiver is damaged or malfunctioning. I strongly recommend you call Crutchfield Tech Support - their toll-free number is on your invoice - or Crutchfield Customer Service. That receiver carries a one-year warranty, so you may be entitled to a free replacement.

  • Mark Stettler from Hillsboro, OR

    Posted on 5/18/2016

    Hi Buck! I've recently bought an Alpine HD148BT receiver from Crutchfiled which I am using in a portable "Boom Box" that I have made. The box is powered by running standard AC from the wall through a 12V 10A DC converter; the converter is a two-pronged device, so there is no explicit ground connection. The unit operates flawlessly (no noise) in every mode except when I connect ANYTHING to the AUX input on the front. Even an unconnected 3.5mm stereo line (with no device connected to it), will cause unacceptably loud noise. I have experimented with all combinations of levels from the connected devices and the input settings on the receiver itself, but the noise issue remains. One other piece of data: I tried an Alpine CDE163BT receiver in this exact setup and had NO noise problems at all with the AUX jack. Because of this, I am concerned that the HD148BT has a fundamental noise problem with it's AUX input jack; I have seen similar comments on the web with this unit. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you, Mark.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/6/2016

    James, The remote output lead of that receiver is to be used to turn on aftermarket audio processors and amplifiers - if you don't have those, that wire shouldn't be connected to anything. If you bought your receiver at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • James from Crystal Lake

    Posted on 5/5/2016

    I recently installed a JVC receiver and after full proper installation I turn the car on and hear a constant white noise sound coming from all the speakers at the same sound level. I turn the radio up or down the same white sound is still heard and does not fluctuate any time. The sound can be heard over the music and is not ideal to listen with the noise. I checked the wiring and what I came across is the remote wire is what is causing this noise but why? It was connected the same way with the last receiver I had installed and no white noise! This receiver is an upgrade with Bluetooth iPod ready and has a talk mic but that is not installed as it was optional. Can I attach a noise suppressor to the remote wire? What else would you suggest?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/19/2016

    Tanner, A ground loop isolator doesn't actually fix the situation that created the noise in the first place. That's why we say to try all other methods of repair first before employing one.

  • Tanner from Salt Lake City

    Posted on 4/18/2016

    Hey, I've gone through this flow chat without any avail. You mention that Ground loop isolators should be used as a last resort. Why is that? What drawbacks do they have? Thanks!

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/21/2016

    Alex, I'm not familiar with that receiver or what a 20-foot long connection harness consists of, but it sure sounds like it's picking up interference somewhere. Most noise issues come from grounding problems, so the first thing you should do is check all grounds. If you bought any of your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Alex from Richmond

    Posted on 3/21/2016

    Excellent article. I've spent 1+ week trying to resolve an engine noise issue to no avail. I have an '03 BMW for which I just installed a new aftermarket (Dynavin) head unit (HU). The OEM radio connection is in the trunk. I was thus provided with a 20-foot long extension to route this connection into the dash & into the head unit. The connection goes like this: OEM stereo connection in trunk > OEM-to-Dynavin adapter cable > extension > HU. When the engine is running, there is a buzzing noise coming from the right-hand speakers. Only at idle. Revving causes it to disappear. With revs on the way down & at idle, it reappears. Here's the catch: the ONLY reproducible fix I've been able to find is connecting the head unit directly to the OEM/Dynavin adapter cable. I thought it was a grounding issue. I shortened the extension's ground cable. I grounded the HU directly to the grounding point in the trunk on the chassis. I've tried entirely separating the speaker cables from the power/BUS/etc. connections from one another. I've re-wired the pins on the extension so that they source power/ground/illumination directly from the OEM HU's pins in the dash. I replaced the RH speaker cables. No luck. The seller I purchased the HU from has been very helpful & is very knowledgeable/experienced. He's also stumped. He says differences in resistance between different equipment on their ground circuits manifest as noise. Only potential fix is a power line filter. Any other ideas? Th

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/26/2016

    Manuel, Most problems of this sort are caused by poor ground connections. It's alright to use a ground bolt shared by another device. Many installers paint over the ground connector and bolt to prevent corrosion. You should disassemble the nut and bolt, remove all paint and dirt, get it all down to bare metal, and then reattach and make your connection. There's a good chance this'll solve your noise issue.

  • Manuel from Milwaukie

    Posted on 2/26/2016

    My car came pre-wired for an amp and some subs, it had the power cable going all the way to the trunk, it also had a remote wire and a ground wired to the chassis by the back seat and the trunk, I recently added a 5 channel jvc amp to my car to power my 4 speakers (front and back) and i have a sub coming soon, for now I'm just running the amp at 4 channels, i ran the speaker wires on the right side of the car along with my 2 RCAs, when i turn the key half way (engine not running) it sounds great but when i turn the car on theres a whining noise coming from the speakers it gets louder when i turn up the output sensitivity on the amp, and you can hear it really whine when u step on the gas, i read that it could be the ground wire, so i took the bolt holding it down to the chassis and found another ground wire under the ground wire i am using for my amp, could this be the problem? 2 ground wires on the same bolt, my amp ground is obviously not touching the bear metal with the other ground in it's way

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/16/2016

    Dave, It sounds like the electrical system using the inverter has a different ground potential than the van's audio system, creating a noisy ground loop. Isolation transformers in the signal path might help. If you bought any of your gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number will be on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Dave from Dayton

    Posted on 2/15/2016

    Hello, I am replacing my TV in my conversion van. I am going from a 12v DC model to a 120v AC model. Testing the TV with the inverter I plan to use I have no issues with audio from the tv speakers or even out the headphone jack when using a small pair of computer speakers (this is the output I plan to use to feed into the van's DHS surround sound amp). When I test the system in the van with the DHS amp, I get a loud noise once the RCA's are connected into the TV via the headphone jack. The noise seems to be coming from the LED TV itself as I can move the RCA cables farther away and it seems to reduce the noise, but still very loud. The van came with a Pyramid NS-21 and is in line. I tried another smaller AC TV and it worked much better. Should I be looking at insulating the RCA cables or insulation material for the TV or both? I could take this TV back and try another one, but I am not sure how to know how much noise is generated by each. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/15/2016

    Matt, I'm not familiar with golf cart electrical systems, but it sounds like yours won't support headlights and a radio at the same time. The only thing I can think of is to add a separate 12-volt battery to run the receiver. You'd also need a battery charger to refresh the battery after use.

  • matt from Indianapolis

    Posted on 1/15/2016

    Hello, I have installed a radio on my golf cart, this is wire to a 48v to 12v converter. The radio works fine until I turn on the lights. With the lights on I lose the radio station it goes to static, I also tried playing music from a patch cord plugged into a Iphone and the same thing. I tried hooking up the radio to it's own power converter and the same thing. Any suggestions. THe power reducer is hooked up across the battery pack. With golf carts they suggest not grounding anything to frame. Thank you

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/30/2015

    Brian, The vast majority of noise issues arise due to a bad connection or ground loop. Your troubleshooting has uncovered that neither your speaker wiring nor amplifiers are the source of the noise. You can continue troubleshooting the problem by following the steps in our interactive diagnostic flowchart. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • Brian from Austin

    Posted on 12/29/2015

    I recently installed a new Pioneer AVH-X2700BS. I have it running both a 1200W mono and 250W 4 channel RF Prime amp. I can hear the alternator at low volumes as a high pitched, albeit rather low volume whine. With the volume up, it can't be heard. All 3 preouts to amps are run with twisted pair RCA cables. I experience the whine heavily in the front 2 speakers and less so in the rear, none in my subwoofers. After testing other inputs into the amp using alternate sources and RCAs on every channel, I've determined that this noise only occurs when the HU is my audio source. Adjusting the gain does not alleviate the whine, and the amplifiers are well powered and grounded. Voltage of the sanded ground points (a seperate grounding point for each amp) up to where paint is present reads 13.6V idle. The amps are powered by a 4AWG lead from the battery to a fused distribution block and a 4 and 8 AWG power lead to the 1200W and 250W amps respectively. RCAs are run on the opposite side of the vehicle from power, the one point where power and speaker wire are close to one another, they are positioned orthogonal. I can not, for the life of me, figure out where the source of that alternator whine is, and it's incredibly frustrating. I have read that PICO fuses in pioneer HUs can blow and cause a similar issue, but I don't believe that is the case here, as the HU is brand new and I have not, as far as I know, removed the RCAs with it on. Any thought as to its source?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/9/2015

    Ratan, The vast majority of noise issues arise due to bad ground connections. Did you follow the wiring instructions on how to connect the receiver harness to your vehicle interface harness? It sounds like the receiver's trying to get its ground through a powered antenna connection instead of the black ground wire attached to the metal frame of your vehicle. For more detailed troubleshooting instructions, you can use the interactive noise suppression chart to pinpoint your problem and offer a remedy.

  • Ratan Varma from Cypress

    Posted on 12/9/2015

    I am having a hissing sound coming in through the speakers in my 1998 Acura nsx after installing a pioneer avh 4100 nex. The nsx has a facotry amplified bose sound system. When I connect the blue wire on the harness 'antenna' it both grounds and operates the antenna, I get the hissing black ground does nothing. I have unplugged the antenna black cable as well and tried running music through Bluetooth and I still have the issue. Not sure what to do. The hiss is very loud.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/2/2015

    Anthony, All signal channels benefit from using good patch cables. Why would you want one channel to be more susceptible to noise than another? You don't need to get extra-expensive silver-coated wiring, but a matched set of decent RCA cables will ensure proper signal flow to all the parts of your system.

  • Anthonyt from Ottawa, Ontario

    Posted on 12/1/2015

    If I need 2 RCA cables for my 4 channel amp, one for subwoofer channel and one for the front mid/high range channels, which channel would benefit most from a higher quality (twisted pair) RCA cable? I plan to buy one average RCA and one higher quality RCA. Or would both Subwoofer and mid-range benefit equally from high quality RCAs?

  • Josh from Champaign, IL

    Posted on 11/23/2015

    I finally located the source of my whine/squeal/ringing. I replaced my head unit thinking that was the problem. That didn't do it and it does it whether the engine is on or off. Finally sat and listened, realized it was coming from the rear. Got in the trunk and figured out that it was a faulty mini-sub from the factor. Unplugged it, problem solved! 2002 Nissan Sentra.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/29/2015

    Joel, Locating and correcting noise issues in a car audio system are often difficult and confusing. Most of the time noise is caused by a loose ground connection somewhere. As an aid, we've made an interactive flow-chart, that you follow step-by-step, in order to help you solve some common noise problems. Go to How to diagnose and suppress noise to start your troubleshooting.

  • Joel cawoski

    Posted on 10/28/2015

    I am having a problem with my amplifier/ car speakers. The system sounds great with the key in the accessory position. When I turn the key the full way to start the ignition there is buzzing sound. The buzzing sound is constant at any volume even on zero. The rca cables are routed on the opposite side of the power cables so it can't be that. How do I fix this problem?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/1/2015

    Chris, I do not recommend putting stereo gear designed for home use in cars, where road noise and listener positioning become obstacles to fidelity. What you propose is possible, but it won't be as loud as you think. Klipsch rates that system as 35 watts per speaker and 50 watts for the sub (120 watts total) while playing at 5% THD, audibly distorting. A more realistic interpretation would be to expect about a clean 70-watt total output. AB amplifiers are about 50% efficient, so a 150-watt inverter should work. Don't forget to firmly secure the gear in your car so that in the event of an accident pieces of equipment don't become lethal projectiles. As far as noise issues, you can't troubleshoot a problem that doesn't exist yet, but equipment designed for home use may not work very well with a car's electrical system.

  • Chris from Baltimore

    Posted on 9/30/2015

    Hello Buck. I was thinking about installing a home/computer speaker system I already have into my car in order to save money. The speaker system I have is the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 at 200 watts total system power (2 speakers and a 6.5inch subwoofer). It has an amp with a subwoofer knob and a main volume knob. The amp is described as a "Digital/Linear A/B Amplifier". The 2 speakers connect to the back of the sub, as does the amplifier, and the system power cord. -To my understanding, all I will need to buy in order to install these in my vehicle is a power inverter? Would a 1000W power inverter be enough? -The power cord coming out of the sub (that powers the whole system) only has two prongs, as in there's no ground. This would plug into the inverter which would be wired straight to the battery. Do you see any potential problems here, either with grounding or possible noise? I guess I won't know until I have the system installed but if it won't work, I'd like to know before I buy the inverter. Will I need an isolation transformer between the inverter and the speaker system or a ground fault circuit interrupter, or a ground loop isolator? Thank you.

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/31/2015

    Mike, Usually those kinds of noises are the results of a loose power or ground wire. Check that first. If you bought gear at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this link for details.

  • mike from roseville

    Posted on 8/30/2015

    I am having popping noises comming from the speakers when I turn my system off. I have a jl audio v2/75x4 watt 4 channel amplifier and a pioneer deh-x8700bh head unit along with alpine spr-60c and spr-682. thank you for your time

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 8/13/2015

    Daniel, It sounds like your subwoofer amplifier is plugged into a tape output that's tuned to a different source than the main output. Like you're playing a CD while the tape out is set to the FM tuner. Normally in a home theater system a subwoofer gets its input from the receiver's LFE (low-frequency effects) output, which plays the bass of the program playing.

  • Daniel from Muncy

    Posted on 8/12/2015

    I'm trying to hook a car amp and subwoofer to my home theater system using a ac to DC power converter. When I hook everything up correctly I turn on my home system. When I play country music on the home system I'm getting an entirely different channel playing music through the car amp and subwoofer only. Country on the home system and classic rock on the amp and subwoofer only. Any reason why this is happening?

  • Buck Pomerantz from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/14/2015

    Loren, I'm not sure what "computer noise" means, but using the headphone output of your computer to feed a guitar amp's input has probably set up a ground loop which hums or buzzes. Guitar amps by themselves are inherently noisy. Have you tried plugging the amp into the same power strip as the computer? Have you tried switching the amp's ground lift? Sorry, Crutchfield doesn't carry an isolation filter for this situation.

  • Loren from United States

    Posted on 7/12/2015

    I need a filter! I am running my karoke (on my computer) using head phone jack and going to my amp?speaker.. it is a guitar amp. But I am getting "computer noise" through the amp is their a filter available to stop the noise?

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