Theodore L's 2005 Honda Civic
Robert Ferency-Viars is the managing editor for the Crutchfield car A/V learning content, and has been with the company since 1999. A Virginia native from the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, he loves spending time with his wonderful wife and sons, listening to music, writing, and playing games with friends. Robert's love for car audio began at 16 when he installed his first car stereo.
More from Robert Ferency-Viars
- Kenwood KDC-X693 CD receiver and Kenwood iPod cable
- Two 15-inch Alpine Type R Subs (750 watts RMS and 2000 watts PEAK)
- Three Rockford Fosgate 1-Farad capacitors run in series providing 3000-watts of power
- Hifonics BXi 2610D Class D Mono Block Amplifier with an internal 250-amp fuse providing 3250 watts run at 1 Ohm, delivering 1625 watts to each subwoofer
- 0-gauge Monster Car Audio oxygen-free power cable
- Stinger platinum RCA cables
- Monster 400 Series Car Audio Subwoofer Wire wired directly from the amp to the subs
- high-performance Optima deep cycle battery
- Four blue LED low-profile light strips on the roof of the trunk
- The lining is black high-grade vinyl wrapped over 1/4-inch MDF board for the back splash and 1/2-inch MDF for the floor as well as for the capacitor rack
I stripped the trunk out, and designed the sub box so that it would show the back of the subs when I put the back seats of the car down. I did this by allowing each sub to have its own chamber. The top board of both sub chambers and the bottom board of both chambers are the same piece so it is all one big unit. The back of each chamber has a 1/2-inch thick plexiglass window that allows you to look into the chamber.
The inside of each chamber has mirror on the bottom and walls along with blue Streetglow neon's on the top. This way when I hit a switch (located inside the center console) the lights in the box chambers light up along with the lights in the trunk. You may also notice that the box appears to be slotted but it is not. The port that you see goes between each sub chamber, straight through to the inside of the car. This allows the internal trunk space to connect with the cab of the car when the seats are down.
Part of my reasoning for all this is I wanted the car to look stock when the back seats are up and it is sitting in a parking lot somewhere. I love loud and heavy-hitting deep bass tones that most people never hear while listing to the same songs that I do. My best friend and I have been hooking up systems since we first started driving. I worked three jobs the summer I was 16 just to save up and buy my first system (which was nothing like this). Today I am pretty close to my dream system. I can't go any louder because the roof, windshield, and everything else move way too much already with the vibration.
Why did you decide to upgrade your A/V system?
Why would I not?
What's the first thing you show people about your installation?
That when I turn it up car alarms go off.
Why did you choose these products?
They are some of the best products on the market and still in my price range.
What was the most difficult part of the installation?
Running 0-gauge wire through a little Honda.
|The old (left) vs the new (right) Type R sub|
|Trunk under construction|
|Gear in the trunk|
|A better look a the capacitors|
|View from inside the car, back seat folded down|
|Lit up at night|
|Finished view with Dynamat|
Vehicles in the Customer Car Showroom are submitted by customers and fans, and edited by Crutchfield writing staff. You can find more of these articles on the Showroom main page.