Tools and supplies

Common tools for most projects

Hand tools

• Hammer
• Tape measure
• Small level
• Linesman pliers
• Wire cutter/strippers (for the wire gauges you'll be working with)
• Laser level or chalk line

Drills and bits

• 1/2" or larger electric drill.
• You'll need a set of spade bits from 1/4" to 1-1/2". (Professional installers use auger and hole-saw bits because they make the job easier. Since these bits are expensive, think twice about purchasing them for one-time use.)

Step ladders and extension ladders
Bring step ladders and extension ladders of sufficient height to reach every wiring location in your home. You'll also need eye protection, good boots, knee pads, gloves, and protective clothing.

Wire labels
Label both ends of the wire before you start pulling, or before cutting another wire. You can use Crutchfield CableLabels™, or simply use masking tape and a marker.

Electrical tape
If you have multiple cables going to the same destination, tape them into a bundle for quicker routing through your walls.

Wire ties and attachments
Wire must be supported every 4-1/2 feet and within 1 foot of a junction box. Wire ties and wire-tie clamps are recommended because the staples electricians use for regular AC wiring may damage low-voltage cables if they're nailed down too tightly.

Nail plates
Whenever you drill a hole 1-1/4" or less from the surface of any wooden part of your house (a stud, joist, plate, block, or brace), or notch any wooden part, you must protect the cable with a nail plate. The nail plate prevents a nail from ever piercing the cable.

J-boxes
"J-boxes" or junction boxes may be used to mount volume controls and other in-wall devices, such as infrared sensors. Look for a J-box that's deep enough to fit your in-wall devices (usually 2-3/4").

Backless brackets/P-rings
When you're simply terminating wires at a wall plate, you don't need the structural strength of a wall box. Backless brackets provide the minimum structure you need for a wall plate.

Backless brackets provide the minimum structure you'll need to attach a wall plate. If you're installing one to run speaker wires to your receiver, mount it at the same height as AC outlets for a clean, uniform look. If you're installing one for an IR sensor or volume control, mount it at the same height as light switches.

Additional tools and supplies for new construction
If you don't have a battery-powered drill, you'll need grounded extension cords of sufficient length to reach from the contractor-supplied central electrical supply to anywhere you want to drill. You shouldn't join four 25-foot cords to make a 100-foot cord. The wasted power may lower the voltage to a point that your drill could be damaged permanently. Also, keep in mind that some job sites require a hard hat.

You might also consider "rough-in" or "hole-saving" brackets. At the rough-in stage, you can install these brackets for in-wall and in-ceiling speakers and other in-wall components. They save a lot of time, since the drywaller will cut holes for the brackets before hanging the drywall (as they do for light switches, electrical sockets, etc.). You may have to order these separately — they aren't included with, or available for, all in-wall and in-ceiling components. If you're installing a multi-room system, you may be able to purchase specific brackets for that system.

Hole-saving (or "rough-in") brackets tell the drywaller to cut a hole for the speaker (just like he/she would for electrical outlets and lighting fixtures). This makes your job much easier later on, since it takes the guesswork out of finding your speaker location and wire after the drywall's up.

Additional tools and supplies for finished homes
If you don't have a high-quality studfinder, you'll probably want to invest in one before you begin the installation. Some studfinders can differentiate between pipes, AC wires, and other obstacles hidden behind your walls. You'll also need a drywall saw to cut into your walls, as well as fish tape to help route the wire through your walls.

Fish tape allows you to pull cable behind finished walls, floors, and ceilings. It's sturdier than most wires and cables, making it easier to "fish" through small spaces. In order to pull wire to another location, you'll need to attach the wire to the fish tape: (A) Strip the jacket off the cable. Bend the conductors over the fish hook. (B) Wrap the hook and the cable with electrical tape.

Wiring your home

From here we'll jump into the details of wiring your home. We've found that there are big differences between working in new construction and in a finished home. You can choose to read both sections, or just the one that pertains to your install.