Drywall repair and clean-up tips

If your hole isn't much larger than the holes you cut for your speakers (roughly 70 square inches), all you'll need is some drywall tape (paper or mesh &mdash mesh is easier to work with), a putty knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

1. Place the piece back in the wall. Cut strips of tape, and apply them to each seam. If you're using paper tape, apply some joint compound to the seam, gently press the tape into it, and smooth it by firmly drawing a clean spackle knife across the compound and tape. Make sure there are no air bubbles. If you're using mesh tape, just apply the sticky side to the seam.
2. Apply thin layers of joint compound over the tape (probably 2-3), until you have a smooth, flush surface. Let each layer dry before applying the next. Thin layers dry more quickly than thick layers, and will probably require less sanding later on since it's easier to keep them more flush with the wall.
3. Gently smooth the surface. You can do this with a damp cloth or with sand paper. If you use a damp cloth, make sure it's a smooth, non-textured material. Work in short spurts, then let the joint compound dry and observe your work. If you rub the compound with too much pressure or for too long, you'll have to reapply.
   If you use sandpaper, start off with 60-grain. Sand the compound until you can't see the lines from the putty or spackle knife any more. Next, use 100-grain to get a smoother finish. If you've got a lot of sanding to do, you might consider using a belt sander — but be careful that you don't sand off too much, or you'll have to reapply. Another labor-saving option is to use a sanding block, available from your local hardware store.
4. If you have primer, apply a coat before applying paint. Then paint the patch to match the rest of the wall.

If you need to cut a new piece of drywall to patch one or more of your holes, you'll need a utility knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

1. If this hole was cut on an inward slant, start by removing any excess material. If it's not a square or rectangular hole, remove material around it in a square or rectangular shape.
2. Trace the shape of the hole onto cardboard, or measure the length and width of the hole. Trace that shape onto the new drywall piece, then add a 2" border on each side. Cut out the drywall along the 2" border (the larger rectangle).
3. Carefully score the drywall along the smaller rectangle that you traced (inside the 2" border). Make sure you don't damage the paper on the other side — this paper will act as your drywall tape. Peel or chip away the drywall around the scored square, leaving the 2" of paper on the opposite side intact.
4. Apply a thick layer of joint compound to the area around the hole, as well as to the patch (on the side where you just scored and peeled the drywall). Use plenty of joint compound to avoid air bubbles.
5. Turn the patch around so that the intact paper is facing you, and place the remaining drywall rectangle into the hole. Smooth it by firmly drawing a clean spackle knife across the patch. This should be a close fit, but not too tight. If you need some extra room, just chip a little more drywall off of your patch, or expand your hole slightly. Let the compound dry overnight.
6. Smooth a thin layer of joint compound over the edges. You'll probably need 2-3 layers, or enough that the joint compound fully covers the seams and is smooth and flush with the surrounding wall.
7. Follow the sanding and finishing instructions above.

If you cut a large hole that will require additional backing to support your patch, or if you're patching a hole in the ceiling, you'll need some wooden slats (2" x 4"), drywall tape (paper or mesh — mesh is easier to work with), a putty knife, joint compound, and either a damp cloth or some sand paper (60-grain and 100-grain).

1. Do you still have the drywall you had cut out before to use as a patch, or do you need to cut a new piece? See the previous two examples for instructions.
2. Cut a piece of 2" x 4", about 6-8" longer than the length across the hole (but short enough that you're still able to maneuver it inside the hole). If it's a very wide or tall hole, you might need to cut more than one piece.
3. Place the 2" x 4" in the hole. Secure it to the existing drywall using drywall screws. Drill the screws in enough to make a slight dent in the drywall paper, but not enough to tear surrounding material. These screws will be covered up later.
4. Place your patch of drywall in the hole, and secure it to the 2" x 4" with drywall screws.
5. Apply mesh or paper tape to all 4 seams (see previous instructions).
6. Using 2-3 thin coats of joint compound, cover the tape and fill in the screw holes. Build up a smooth, flush surface, allowing each coat to dry completely.
7. Follow the sanding and finishing instructions above.

Additional tips

• Cover your floor and any nearby electronic equipment or furniture before you begin — spilled joint compound and drywall dust can make quite a mess, and you don't want to have to clean that up afterwards.
• Joint compound can dry quickly. Wash your tools as soon as you're finished with them, and dry them to prevent rusting.
• Sanding joint compound with sand paper (instead of using a damp cloth) creates lots of dust. While not harmful, it can be irritating to the eyes and sinuses. Some people might be more comfortable using protective eye, mouth, and nose gear.
• If you use a damp cloth to sand, work carefully and slowly so you don't remove all your work.
• Be patient. Joint compound may need to dry overnight before it's ready for another coat or for sanding.