Everything About Subwoofers from A to Z
A checklist and reference guide for putting a subwoofer in your vehicle
When planning a bass system, customers ask every day about where they should start. Doing it properly takes some planning and forethought, especially if you're starting small and intend to expand over time.
Plan out the system completely, before you buy the gear. |
How big of a sub system will you need?
Estimate the power your subwoofer system may need in order for the bass to musically blend and be well-balanced with your existing system. If you have:
- A factory radio — you won't need more than 50 to 200 watts RMS of power for the bass.
- An aftermarket receiver — you might want 200 to 300 watts RMS of power.
- Amplified speakers with around 50 watts RMS per channel — 250 to 500 watts RMS is a good starting point.
- A 100 watts RMS per channel system — having at least 1,000 watts RMS, or more, for the sub is not uncommon.
To learn more, you can watch our video Car Amplifier Power.
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Choose a subwoofer and enclosure |
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Choose an amplifier To learn more about amps, check out Car Amplifiers FAQ. For help in picking which amp to get, see our Car Amplifier Shopping Guide or watch our How to Choose an Amplifier video. |
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Plan out the wiring scheme to be sure the sub and amp can work together Now you might need to adjust your choice of sub or amp, so they'll work together properly. Changing your set-up on paper is a lot less challenging than exchanging purchased gear. Check out the different ways subs get wired in our Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams. They can help you decide which way will work best for the gear you've chosen. |
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A powered subwoofer is an easier solution |
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Vehicle-specific enclosures with subs |
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Amp power wire kits Amp wiring kits contain most of what you need to hook up your amp. Some kits even come with signal wires, the RCA patch cords that allow the signal to get from the receiver to the sub amp. To learn more about wiring kits watch our Amplifier Wiring Kits video. |
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Fuses are for your safety |
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The signal wires |
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The speaker wires |
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And don't forget tools |
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Gather the gear
You'll need: your component sub(s), enclosure, speaker wire, amplifier, (or a powered sub), an amp wiring kit, signal cables, and any tools you think will come in handy.
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Now is the time to install it
To see how an amp installation is done, see our Amplifier Installation Guide, and watch our video Installing A Car Amplifier. You can also check out the Subwoofer Installation Guide for more tips and suggestions.
Make sure you always disconnect the car battery's negative, ground cable before working on the electrical system. Also, make sure the fuse is out of the in-line fuse holder until the installation is complete. Only then should you re-connect the battery ground and install the fuse.
Test — does it turn on and off correctly?
Make sure all volumes and gains are set to their minimum, and make sure all filters are off or disengaged. The sub amp should come on when you turn on the receiver. If the amp stays on even after you turn off the ignition, then you need to go back and re-wire the remote turn-on lead correctly to a switched power source. An amp that's always on will soon drain your car's battery.
Turn the gain up until it distorts, then back it off until the sound is clean again. |
Tune your sub
Properly setting the gain and the filters of your sub amp is crucial to getting good bass without causing damage. See Tuning Your Subs for the "by ear" method of tuning your system. Another method involves using test tones and a multimeter to set the amp's gain to achieve a target output voltage. JL Audio has a good gain tutorial which can show you how to do that.
A lot of people notice changes in a new subwoofer's tone after a few months of play. Whether this "breaking in" period really effects the sub or not, a second tuning, a few months after the first, will make your ears happy.
Play It Clean, Don't Blow It
There are two ways to blow a sub. The first way is to over-power it: constantly playing music at a power level well beyond what the voice coil can stand, until it burns up.
The other method of blowing a sub doesn't involve power, but distortion, often called "clipping." That crumbling, crackling, gritty, or hissing sound can destroy a subwoofer no matter what the volume. There're a couple reasons why. One is that during the flat parts of a clipped signal, although plenty of current flows through the voice coil, there's no movement, and hence no cooling, and the coil overheats.
Another reason is that severely clipped waveforms force the sub's coil and cone to try to move at infinite speed when changing direction. That can't happen, and either the cone or the coil dies. Under-powering is often the contributing factor in a blown sub because a distorted signal gets applied in an attempt to get more volume.
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Stressing your vehicle's electrical system |
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Jared S's 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier |
Rock on, but be cool
If your car stereo can be heard a block away, it might not always impress people the way you want it to. Try not to infringe on their rights to peace and quiet, but definitely share and enjoy your music with those who'll appreciate it.

