2006-2008 Dodge Ram Mega Cab
Upgrading the stereo system in your Ram Mega Cab
2006 • 2007 • 2008
In brief: This Crutchfield Research Garage article gives you an overview of your Ram's stock stereo system and your aftermarket upgrade options. We'll tell you all about:
- The factory stereo system
- Removing the factory radio
- Removing the factory speakers
- Adding more bass
- Other options for your Ram Mega Cab
Then, use our vehicle selector to find the gear that will fit your truck.
Overview of the Ram Mega Cab pickup
When it comes to full-size pickup advertising you hear plenty of talk about (cue raspy macho voiceover) "power, torque, and towing capacity." You don't hear so much about style, mostly because it's probably hard to talk about that sort of thing in a raspy, macho voice. That's kind of a shame, because Dodge trucks have been some of the best-looking pickups on the road for the last couple of decades.
With lines that evoke both the Power Wagons of the past and the semi-trucks of the current day, Dodge trucks have maintained just the right mix of curvy and curmudgeonly through several incarnations. The Ram truck's 2006 mid-cycle update, for example, added bigger, brighter headlights, but there's no mistaking this Mega Cab for anything other than a Dodge.
As per standard light truck procedure, the Dodge Ram was available in three different weight classes. The cabs and the disassembly instructions are the same whether you have a 1500, 2500, or 3500, so we've divided the line by cab configuration.
The factory stereo system
The Ram Mega Cab's base radio was a trusty AM/FM/CD receiver with four speakers, and the upgraded version featured an Infinity system with an AM/FM/MP3 receiver, a 6-CD changer, and seven speakers. A navigation receiver could also be paired with the 7-speaker stereo. These systems range from okay-ish to not-bad, but in a brash, brawny truck like this, that's just not going to cut it.
The Ram was available with several different receivers (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Due to the vehicle's dash configuration, an aftermarket receiver with a retractable screen may not work, and a receiver with a fold-down face definitely won't work. Finding a receiver that will work is pretty easy when you visit our Outfit My Car page, but some of the factory features that may be present in your truck, like Uconnect®, satellite radio, and DVD playback, won't work anymore.
That's not really a problem, since all those functions can be replaced and improved with the right aftermarket stereo. A variety of single-DIN (2" tall) and double-DIN (4" tall) receivers will fit in your Ram truck, so you have plenty of options.
Removing the factory radio
Does your truck have a console? If so, is it a half-console or a whole console? How you answer that question will determine how you're going to go about removing and replacing the factory radio. The "half" console has three cupholders that form an "L" shape, while the "full" console has three cupholders that are all in a line. You'll need to deal with the cupholders to get to the radio.
Of course, if your vehicle is not equipped with a console, you can skip ahead to the part that applies to all trucks.
Ram Mega Cab with the half console (Crutchfield Research Photo)
You'll start on the left side of the console. Some 4WD trucks have a transfer case shifter in this location, in which case you'll need to remove the rubber boot. Pry up the insert in the top of the shift knob, then remove the exposed nut. Pry around the perimeter of the shift boot and lift it over the shifter. That will expose two 8mm screws, which you'll need to remove. Other trucks have a pen tray here, instead of a shifter. In that case, you'll need to pry up the tray, then remove the two exposed 8mm screws.
Next, you'll pry up the cupholder tray, remove another two exposed 8mm screws, then lift the tray up and out of the way. Remove two 8mm screws from the forward storage tray, and pull it out. Remove the two 8mm screws under the lower dash trim, remove the trim, then remove two more Phillips screws exposed when you removed the trim.
The full console has three cupholders in a row. (Crutchfield Research Photo)
For the full-console model, you'll start at the rear edge and pry up the console/cupholder panel to release the retaining clips. Pull the panel upward and rearward to remove it. Remove the three 8mm screws from the console base, then pull up the console base to remove it.
Next, remove two 8mm screws in the lower dash skirt and remove the skirt. Pull the lower dash trim downward to release the retaining clips and pull off the trim. That will expose two 8mm screws, which you'll also need to remove.
The following steps apply to all Rams, so you non-console folks can start paying attention again.
Place the gearshift in the lowest position. Starting at the top edge of the receiver trim panel, pry across the top and sides of the trim panel to release the retaining clips. Be sure to use a pry tool, or at the very least, put a thick sheet of paper behind the panel to protect it. Pull the panel out, disconnect the wiring harnesses, and remove. The factory radio is held in place by four Phillips screws. Remove them, disconnect the harness, and remove the radio.
Detailed stereo and speaker removal instructions
To install your new receiver, you need a dash kit, which is available at a deep discount when you buy your stereo from Crutchfield. You'll also save big on the wiring harness adapter you need to connect your receiver to the factory wiring. If your truck is equipped with Uconnect and you want to retain that functionality, a special wiring interface is available for that, as well. Our Outfit My Car tool will show you what you need.
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, 8mm socket, ratchet and extension, panel tool, and a thick sheet of paper or shop rag
Steering wheel audio controls
It's relatively easy to retain your Ram truck's steering wheel audio controls when you install a new stereo. When you enter your vehicle information, our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver.
Removing the factory speakers
The Ram Mega Cab's 4-speaker system has speakers in the front doors and, depending on the cab, somewhere behind the rear seat. The optional 7-speaker Infinity system adds speakers on each side of the dash and a small fill speaker in the center.
Trucks with the Infinity speaker system
The Infinity system's front door speakers only receive bass frequencies from the factory amp. That means any new speakers you install will also only receive (and play) bass. To get the best possible sound upgrade, you should also replace the dash corner speakers, preferably with the same brand as your new 6"x9"s.
The front door speakers aren't hard to reach or replace (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Front door speakers
The factory 6"x9" front door speakers can be replaced by same-size, 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" speakers. A speaker adapter bracket is required for the smaller ones, and it's available at a steep discount with your speaker purchase. Remember that if you have the Infinity system, these door speakers only play bass, and the same goes for your new speakers, too.
You'll need to remove the door panel, which is a reasonably basic procedure involving a panel tool and some other basic tools. Be sure to keep the screws you remove from the doors (or anywhere in the truck) organized, because you'll probably need them again when you put everything back together. It's also a good idea to test speaker operation before you the reinstall the panel.
Complete instructions for speaker removal can be found in your Crutchfield MasterSheet, of course.
Tools needed: Panel tool, Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension
A variety of speakers will fit into the rear door (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Rear door speakers
You have plenty of options when you replace the Ram Mega Cab's rear speakers. The factory speakers are an oversized 6-3/4" design and regular 6-3/4", 6-1/2", and 5-1/4" aftermarket speakers will work. You'll need to re-drill the mounting screw holes for standard 6-3/4" models, or use a mounting bracket (included with your speaker purchase) for the smaller models.
No matter which size you choose, your replacement speakers probably won't include mounting screws, so it's a good idea to check before you start the installation. Better to make that run to the hardware store sooner than later.
Start by removing one 10mm screw from the rear of the door release handle and one Phillips screw located above the handle. Remove two Phillips screws from the bottom edge of the door panel, then work your away around the sides and bottom of the door with a panel tool to release the pressure clips holding it in place. Next, lift the door panel straight up. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and remove the panel, then remove three Phillips screws securing speaker/bracket assembly, disconnect the harness, and pull the speaker out.
If you're installing 6-3/4" speakers, you'll need to place the new speaker in the cavity and mark the new mounting holes with a felt-tip pen before you set the speaker aside and drill the new holes with a 1/8" bit. Always be careful when drilling in a vehicle, and be sure to wear eye protection and take note of what's behind and around the place where you're drilling.
To install your new speakers, connect the new speaker's wiring adapter to the vehicle's speaker harness and secure the new speakers to the door with screws. Be sure to test the speakers before you button everything up again.
Tools needed: Panel tool, Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, ratchet and extension, drill and 1/8" bit (for 6-3/4" speakers)
Removing the center speaker (Crutchfield Research Photo)
Whether you're removing the 3-1/2" speakers in the corners or the small (around 1-1/2") speaker in the center, the tools and techniques are the same. For simplicity's sake, we're only showing a photo of the center speaker, but you'll get all the visuals you need in your Crutchfield MasterSheet.
Pry across the edge of the vent/speaker grille trim panel to release the retaining clips, then pull the panel towards the rear of the vehicle. Remove two Phillips screws from the speaker, then pull it out, and disconnect it.
Tools needed: Panel tool, stubby Phillips screwdriver
Bass in your Dodge Ram
There's a certain amount of room for a sub enclosure in your Ram Mega Cab, but it's not exactly "mega." You have a 25" W x 16" H x 5"/11" D space to work with, so there's room for something interesting back here, but you might want to take a look at a more customized solution – like the JL Audio Stealthbox.
This Stealthbox enclosure is designed specifically for use in 2006-08 Dodge Ram Mega Cab pickups. It fits behind the driver side rear seat, and rocks your truck with a pair of JL Audio W6v3 10" dual voice coil 4-ohm subs. While this is not the hardest DIY job ever, it is a challenging bit of work. If you're not terribly experienced with this sort of thing, you might want to have the work done by a car audio professional.
If you're looking for something a bit more subtle (and possibly a bit easier to install), a powered subwoofer is another great choice.
Other options for your Ram Mega Cab
There are lots of things you can do to improve the utility and comfort of your Ram Mega Cab. Here are a few ways Crutchfield can help.
The Dodge Ram Mega Cab is an enormous vehicle that's made for wide-open spaces, not crowded parking lots. A rear-view camera will really help increase your visibility and safety when your busy day takes you into town. And a camera is also a huge help when you're backing up to a trailer.
Your Ram is a big vehicle with big doors and a big grille, so it punches a big hole in the atmosphere. To prevent wind noise and road roar from undoing the great work your new stereo is doing for you, make sure you install Dynamat when you're replacing your speakers. This soundproofing material will dampen the sounds you don't like, so you can get more enjoyment out of the ones you do.
Remote start and security systems
Adding remote start capability to your vehicle lets you warm it up in the winter or cool it down in the summer. The iDatastart system is incredibly convenient and makes it easier than ever to install a remote start system, so we highly recommend it. The module requires a vehicle-specific T-harness (sold separately) to connect with your vehicle's computer, security, and ignition systems, so we ask that you call to order so that we can make sure you get the right harness for your ride.
You can also talk to your Crutchfield Advisor about a security system. They’re not as easy to install (we usually suggest letting a professional do the job), but we can help you choose a system that’ll work in your vehicle.